ibnaz5150

Thanks for the input !!!!!!!

Hello folks...recently picked up a 14" powermatic bandsaw. Curious what blades .....size and brand work best for cutting guitar bodies. Thinking timberwolf...1/2" ??? any and all input appreciated! Thanks, Tom

I used polycrylic quite a bit for applying decals to headstocks. Works wonderful for that......doesn't mess with the fragile decal far as melting is concerned. I've used both from the can thinned a tad through a spray gun and now I just use the rattle can for it. Stuff has a funky odor...think it's on the softer side for finishes as well. I used stewmac's water base lacquer a few years back. Completed a body in the winter months spraying in my basement with a spraybooth. Used a portable heater and lights to control heat. Had filtered vents for airflow through the spraybooth. I had quite a bit of white powder everywhere in my shop after that since I couldn't vent it outside. Worked very well far as a finish...main thing is it allowed me to do that finish under undiserable conditions...humidity,temp,and indoors. Something I would never ever do with nitro!!!. I'm finishing one now using epoxy as my filler and going with tru oil over that. You can get quite a nice finish with this method....plus easy to apply and safe. All in all it's what you want out of your finish and the time and tools your willing to commit. My experience is nothing worth while comes easy. I like the lacquer finishes and done my share. Thing is they are a lot of work....tricky spraying,lot of sanding and final buff. That's why I lean towards oil finishes these days.

Anyone know if these two finishes are compatible???

Hello folks.............I put a coat of waterlox on a guitar last weekend..Love the results like I always have using waterlox. I'd like to switch to tru oil for more protection. Anyone use this combination before??? Should be compatible since there both oil based however I'm not a chemist

Thanks much Black dog! awesome builds by the way! sure gives me inspiration. I started building a few yrs ago. I've done a few Rg bodies and a strat....just the body only. Still a bit scared to play with a neck build. I get my necks through warmoth or musikraft...so I guess i cheat a little. The prs carved top is a whole new challenge for me so wish me luck!

I believe that is filament tape. used quite a bit for shipping purposes. It's fiberglass reinforced for extra strength. Stewmac sells a binding tape though it's a paper tape. sure it would work as well.

Hello folks........need some help! I plan on doing a prs build. I bought a template kit a while back. My concern is the carved top among other questions. I have a piece of 8/4 walnut that's 14" wide so a one piece is the plan. I want to cap that with a nice flame top. What should my main body wood(walnut ) be thickness planned to??? I plan on a 3/4 or thicker for the maple top. What should my overall thickness be ? I also plan on a bolt on neck. That being the case will I need to angle the top for the carve? My other concern is of course the carve itself. I don't have a prs on hand to mock up measure the carve outline. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Tom

Thanx for the encouragement Rick500. Neck pocket is an ibanez aanj...could be scary! I'll give it a go...nothing ventured nothing gained.

hello folks.....just picked up a dewalt 13" planer. been wanting this for my small shop for some time now. has anyone tried one of these on a guitar body? I have a few extra bodies I started and never finished. I obtained some 1/4" bookmatched tops that I'd like to use. The bodies I have are already shaped with a neck pocket....1-3/4" thick. I'd like to send these through the planer taking 1/32 passes.Take em down to 1-1/2 and do some lam tops. I'm just a bit skeptical with the neck pocket and obviously a odd shaped piece of wood going through the planer . Let me know your thoughts....

Check out.......woodcraft.com, woodworkersupply.com and grizzly .com. You'll find a lot of the same products yet cheaper than rockler.

Here's another you should of checked out....not bad for 240.00.

Speaking of planes.I landed a # 4 stanley bedrock for 2.00$ at a garage sale last summer! I tuned her up....found out she's worth around a 100.00 beans. Plan on putting a hock blade in it cuz the blade does'nt have too much more room for sharpening. She's an oldie but a goodie for sure

you definitely have an edge Rob.....California! I'm in western NY and ideal spray conditons are minimal! I won't play with nitro unless Im in my garage with massive ventalation!

UGHHHH........did you lay that second coat on the heavy side? i would of used shellac..just a few light coats to provide a barrier between your cherry dye and lacquer coats to follow. how bad did it bleed?? if it's some globbed areas you can try and sand those spots out ..lightly. Then use some shaded cherry lacquer coats to blend everything in.