ibnaz5150

Thanks for the input !!!!!!!

Hello folks...recently picked up a 14" powermatic bandsaw. Curious what blades .....size and brand work best for cutting guitar bodies. Thinking timberwolf...1/2" ??? any and all input appreciated! Thanks, Tom

I used polycrylic quite a bit for applying decals to headstocks. Works wonderful for that......doesn't mess with the fragile decal far as melting is concerned. I've used both from the can thinned a tad through a spray gun and now I just use the rattle can for it. Stuff has a funky odor...think it's on the softer side for finishes as well. I used stewmac's water base lacquer a few years back. Completed a body in the winter months spraying in my basement with a spraybooth. Used a portable heater and lights to control heat. Had filtered vents for airflow through the spraybooth. I had quite a bit of white powder everywhere in my shop after that since I couldn't vent it outside. Worked very well far as a finish...main thing is it allowed me to do that finish under undiserable conditions...humidity,temp,and indoors. Something I would never ever do with nitro!!!. I'm finishing one now using epoxy as my filler and going with tru oil over that. You can get quite a nice finish with this method....plus easy to apply and safe. All in all it's what you want out of your finish and the time and tools your willing to commit. My experience is nothing worth while comes easy. I like the lacquer finishes and done my share. Thing is they are a lot of work....tricky spraying,lot of sanding and final buff. That's why I lean towards oil finishes these days.

Anyone know if these two finishes are compatible???

Hello folks.............I put a coat of waterlox on a guitar last weekend..Love the results like I always have using waterlox. I'd like to switch to tru oil for more protection. Anyone use this combination before??? Should be compatible since there both oil based however I'm not a chemist

Thanks much Black dog! awesome builds by the way! sure gives me inspiration. I started building a few yrs ago. I've done a few Rg bodies and a strat....just the body only. Still a bit scared to play with a neck build. I get my necks through warmoth or musikraft...so I guess i cheat a little. The prs carved top is a whole new challenge for me so wish me luck!

I believe that is filament tape. used quite a bit for shipping purposes. It's fiberglass reinforced for extra strength. Stewmac sells a binding tape though it's a paper tape. sure it would work as well.

Hello folks........need some help! I plan on doing a prs build. I bought a template kit a while back. My concern is the carved top among other questions. I have a piece of 8/4 walnut that's 14" wide so a one piece is the plan. I want to cap that with a nice flame top. What should my main body wood(walnut ) be thickness planned to??? I plan on a 3/4 or thicker for the maple top. What should my overall thickness be ? I also plan on a bolt on neck. That being the case will I need to angle the top for the carve? My other concern is of course the carve itself. I don't have a prs on hand to mock up measure the carve outline. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Tom

Thanx for the encouragement Rick500. Neck pocket is an ibanez aanj...could be scary! I'll give it a go...nothing ventured nothing gained.

hello folks.....just picked up a dewalt 13" planer. been wanting this for my small shop for some time now. has anyone tried one of these on a guitar body? I have a few extra bodies I started and never finished. I obtained some 1/4" bookmatched tops that I'd like to use. The bodies I have are already shaped with a neck pocket....1-3/4" thick. I'd like to send these through the planer taking 1/32 passes.Take em down to 1-1/2 and do some lam tops. I'm just a bit skeptical with the neck pocket and obviously a odd shaped piece of wood going through the planer . Let me know your thoughts....

Check out.......woodcraft.com, woodworkersupply.com and grizzly .com. You'll find a lot of the same products yet cheaper than rockler.

Here's another you should of checked out....not bad for 240.00.

Speaking of planes.I landed a # 4 stanley bedrock for 2.00$ at a garage sale last summer! I tuned her up....found out she's worth around a 100.00 beans. Plan on putting a hock blade in it cuz the blade does'nt have too much more room for sharpening. She's an oldie but a goodie for sure

you definitely have an edge Rob.....California! I'm in western NY and ideal spray conditons are minimal! I won't play with nitro unless Im in my garage with massive ventalation!

UGHHHH........did you lay that second coat on the heavy side? i would of used shellac..just a few light coats to provide a barrier between your cherry dye and lacquer coats to follow. how bad did it bleed?? if it's some globbed areas you can try and sand those spots out ..lightly. Then use some shaded cherry lacquer coats to blend everything in.

Thanks again Mattia.you've helped me on some previous post as well and I truly appreciate it! It's winter time...the time I dable the most with woodworking. It's the reason for the dryness in my home. Fortunately with all my furniture I've built nothing has craked or split over the years. Trust me I would of ran out and bought a humidifier if I ran into that.My workshop is in the cellar...temp down there is 58-60 with the same humidity. I run a small heater when I get cool at times. The summers the other extreme with high humidity. Always had my hands full spraying lacquer..twidling my thumbs waiting for that ideal day for spraying........few and far between in my area. I now use waterbase lac and oil finishes. So back to the sticker & weight method....do this till I'm ready to work it?

I just recieved two 1/4" bookmatched sets of maple. Within 1-2 hours of sitting in my house they cupped bad. Granted they traveled quite aways through some cold bitter temps. They're in my house now at 72 degrees with 20% humidity. These sets are sold with a 10% moisture content. Was it the drastic temp change that made these cup that fast? I have them layered inbetween 2 pieces of mdf with roughly a 100lbs of weight on top. 2 big questions here.........what is "sticker and weight method"? and what's the best way to stores these for future use? Thanks

I'm not a big fan of lacquered necks however I've done a few! 9-10 is plenty. Keep in mind spray equipment used,and the user! Meaning you'll get different spray patterns,different transfer rate etc etc....some folks lay it on thick and get away with it with ideal conditons & experience! If your doing rattle cans it would take mores coats than a hvlp& compressor. Lay on a nice wet coat and let her flash off. put 4-6 coats on inspecting inbetween coats for drips,lint etc. Knock those off if you get em by wiping lightly with 600 grit. After you get 4-6 good coats you can level sand with 600 -800.... Apply 4-5 more coats and start your leveling again. Start with 800 and move up to 2000 if buffing by hand or foam pad. One good tip I can give ya is don't go so heavy with the lacquer on both sides of your heel.It will save you some sanding to fit your neck into the pocket.

hmmmmm...what's that secrret spazzyzone? will this do the job for a oil finish?? when hand rubbing an oil it seems to pick the slightest swirl or even a scratch from 400 grit by hand if not careful. I stop with my RO at 220. I then proceed to 320 up to 600-800 by hand for an oil.

Thanks Mattia!

Ya some physics goin on there for sure. I may have to ream more holes...may have to enlarge them...size is a factor. I'm going to give it whirl. I have all the ingredients...which is scrap,extra etc. Nothin ventured nothin gained.

Thinking of making a down draft table for hand sanding. Thinking of using pegboard for the top with some rubber shelf matting over that for grip. Build the frame out of 2x4 or 2x6's. drill a dust port hole for shop vac and wala. Anyone ever tried this before....

eeeeeeeeeeeeish got a double post...

I use a robo sander for my edges after the cut out. Start with 60 grit...then 80 to 120. I had to make a few extra wheels for the finer grits. I made them slightly smaller for each grit. I have a dewalt RO. I'll go to 220 with that....and she's all hand sanding from there. abralon works great for contours ,cut aways.I know what your sayin.I tried finer grits on the orbital,abralon. wet the wood down and said @#$%^&*! ...nice fine orbital swirls....no good! So I think though it's not my favorite thing is... hand sanding has it's place. Have to say a oscilating spindle sander seems interesting...been eyeing one up through grizzly.Think that would be the cats #$$ for your edges. hmmm my dream list..jointer,thickness planer,better table saw,bandsaw,drum sander, oscilating edge sander,lathe,dust extraction....damn santa left me coal this year so hopefully next year ...after I take out a 2nd mortgage to finance the equipment I'd like to have. For now it's what I got...and I'll get by. Main thing is I'm enjoying it. Think the big equipment takes the fun out of it unless your mass production.

Thought about one of those postal...curious what the OD is on that set.Seems I'd still have to oversize the template.