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theQuestioneer

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  1. theQuestioneer
    well think about this: the neck narrows, so if you had the bit the perfect size to round it at the heel end, towards the headstock the cuts would overlap and make a point . even if you sanded it down the radius would change significantly. if you had it so the cut was right at the headstock youd end up with a flat bottom towards the heel.
  2. theQuestioneer
    i would think that that's true but: 1.take the scale of the neck 2.the saddle is that far from the nut. (3.) (scale)-(nut to heel)=(heel to saddle)
  3. theQuestioneer
    i'm liking that, although some people may have trouble knowing which pin is which. if they haven't used chips before....
  4. theQuestioneer
    the first post was correct. the second post i posted by accident. i'm sorry it was unclear. ignore my second post, that's what i wanted to delete. the first post is still true.
  5. theQuestioneer
    Heeeyy!
  6. theQuestioneer
    oops nevermind this... wheres the deleate?
  7. theQuestioneer
    get the standard 2-pickup, one V one T from guitarelectronics. then get the motherbucker diagram from kent armstrong ("schematics" on their website, second page.) for the pickup that you will be using the motherbucker on, use the motherbucker schematic instead of that pickup. see how it says "to pickup selector" on the kent armstrong diagram? use that instead of the wire in the standard that goes to the pickup selector. treat the grounds the same way. that will give you the options for the motherbucker that they have. i haven't used one, but that sounds like a pretty good way to use it, although it can be wired many many different ways.
  8. theQuestioneer
    welcome home
  9. theQuestioneer
    look closly at those blend pots. count the poles: 6! they are a differnt kind of pot entirely, they explain it in "understanding guitar wiring" edit: that's a free info sheet. it's like a balance control for a stereo, sort of. i don't know what's with the discription though.
  10. theQuestioneer
    wait what happens with the 9v - ? i didn't understand your previous answer to a similar question.
  11. theQuestioneer
    that wouldn't work. it's not like the signal goes through the tone pot so you can't go around it. you see? cut the tone pots off of the pickup selector so that there is no wire between the two, and the tone pots aren't connected to anything, besides eachother.
  12. theQuestioneer
    ok, on the single conducter, the woven metal around the wire is the ground, the wire is the hot. on the 4-conducter, wire the red and white together, insulate the lead, and forget about them. wire the green and the bare together, that's the ground, and the black is the hot. now you have hot & ground of each pickup, use a wiring diagram based on that.
  13. theQuestioneer
    or how bout a completely new idea, a rotary selector switch from guitarelectronics? that's shorter, but woulg give you control like a 5-way.
  14. theQuestioneer
    good call. i checked, stew-mac says they require 1 1/8" the advantage of using jehle's config is that you would get coil taps, because you could use more kinds of mini toggles. and rhones, what exactly do you want? how many of each control? 1 tone 1 volume or 1 tone 3 volumes (with 1 tone 1 volume, that's only 2 push-pulls, so it won't work unless you throw in another switch) when deciding, think of a pot as an on-off switch, so you need as many as there are pickups. (mine had 3 volumes, each being on/off, and a switch.) or you could do jehle's idea.
  15. theQuestioneer
    you can make anything you could with a normal pot, so yes, you can make a master tone control. i used push-pulls on my first project. it wasn't any harder than it would have been, maybe even easier. a push-pull pot, as far as you have to be concerned, has a pot part and a mini toggle half. go for it.
  16. theQuestioneer
    a push-pull pot is a pot (so volume, tone, whatever) and an on/on mini toggle strapped together. the operation of one dosn't affect the other internaly. (that is, pull the knob out or push it in to operate the mini toggle, rotate it to operate the pot.) i wired my 3-pickup axe with 3 push-pull volumes (on/off and a volume for each pickup)
  17. theQuestioneer
    how is the layout different?
  18. theQuestioneer
    yes i would be pissed.i am sure gibson will still sell guitars and do just fine with it gibson made a very unique,classic design.they did it also with the explorer and the v.the first thing i thought when i saw the prs was "man that sure is a blatent copy" me too. i had always assumed it was liscensed.
  19. theQuestioneer
    i've heard the paint soaks in and dosn't woork to well. is that false?
  20. theQuestioneer
    thanks for that what about liscensing? is that allowed? (you know it's gonna take a week for PRS and Gibson to sign a liscensing deal and bring the singlecut back)
  21. theQuestioneer
    i have the lmii pao ferro. nice, certianly big enough. radiusing not great though.
  22. theQuestioneer
    yeah you can make two if you use it right, so its not as much of a waste
  23. theQuestioneer
    yeah i modded mine. a lot of fun, twas my 1st project. mine was made out of this plywood-like alder laminate. pure crap. i changed it to H-strat size H - H, used each knob as a seperate volume pot and on/off push/pull; ditched tone.
  24. theQuestioneer
    yeah i think that's how it works. i also think that it would mean that it would sound better because it's magnetism playing through the pickups instead of microphonic feedback. :edit your second question, yeah pizeos dont use magnetism, so that would work by microphonic properties. Greg: the stew mac one is just wired like a tone pot. i had trouble seing what ansil meant at first, but its prety simple. you use two diodes, pointing in opposite directions, with both of each of thir ends touching one end of the other diode. you use that little pair as your black ice.
  25. theQuestioneer
    yeah, i meant for the sustainer mod. that's great, i'm sure i've got a partialy busted set of hewadphones somewhere. i'll give it a try. thanks, ansil!
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