low end fuzz

i voted for Jaden, not even because anyhting wrong with any of the others, but i decided to vote for the top as soon as i seen it; a great example of livining up a stale shape, with something other than neon paint; good on'ya grant

so if i understand; cause i understand what casting is; those black set of pickups are not wood at all? the grain and figure showde up in mold? to me that would be crazier then the finished product, which are very nice

super cool logo

wipe on poly is an oil finish....let me rephrase; its as close to any kind of oil finish any production company would ever use, and when you scuff the old finish, it will stick just fine but personally i dont sand maple over 300 that i want finish to grab to, anything above that should be after the initial finish is applied.

took the 80s approach and printed onto a transparency sheet which i took to my friend with a projector

so i got this pdf file on my computer that was sent to me in an email; i can acsess it thru hotmail; if i go into a staples (its like kinkos i guess?) will they be able to go online and put it into there computer or should i bring in a print out and have them scan it; and as long as its 'to scale' are they able to size it correctly? i usually just trace or make templates out of french curves soo i wanted to get this guys specs exact as i can, cause hes done a wonderful job drawing it out for me in small form any help or anything; yu know.... would help grant

you rule Dave

with 2 stripes! im sold and is it just me or is that glob of glue some kind of 'feature'?

has anyone done anything like this? its an old coin that means alot to the customer and hes inquiring about having it inlaid into the guitar; he doesent care where; just that its visable. so my concerns are a few; the way im thinking is it would be inlaid deep enough so the clearcoat would be flat and the coin is protected from the engraving being sanded off; it must be as clear as possible, and its really old apparently so is there any metal that gonna funk up inside there w/ no way to retreive it? a post or two down was talking about plexi over paper images, what concerns me is that being the coin has bumps; whatever is securing the the coin and plexi together could have residue on the glass making it patchy and what not; my other initial idea was epoxy; i use the west system which seems to dry a little pink, but not bad, but the air bubbles that find theyre way in, especially if this thing is like a mm or 2 that alot of space; the only other option i had as last resort was putting it on the head stock, slightly proud and try my best to buff the by hand around the coin; any weigh ins?

is the binding gonna be thick enough to experience the quilt? what makes this the green march? giant pot leaf inlay?

i hear what your saying wez, but over here it really has to do with where it grows, ive had some really heavy swamp ash, and its not just N.ash cuz its got that characteristic 'punkiness' to it that wont get shiny over the jointer, and the pores seem a lot deeper; but its not one of those woods ive done 'extensive' work with, so strictly my thoughts on the subject; Dave; when did you last go, they didnt have anything exept a 3 peice explorer blank; and i got the same story from A&M; way better store if your up for the drive to cambridge. they have a whole room devoted to burls ebony pink ivory and snakewood; rotating stock im sure, but theyre way better for that stuff; you want WALNUT!! i got a guy you need to meet; actually for walnut theres a couple of cool small guys around here; my one buddy i call James Woods has a great selection of 1-2" walnut at a fraction of Exotic; any maple i go there cuz he dont really grade it beyond soft hard and curly(soft/hard) so you just have to go hunting, also hes got padauk wenge bloodwood and a bunch of random stuff for his cabinet maker customers; pear, lyptus wormy stuff, some of the funkiest mineral stained poplar that exotic has never seen; all kiln dried; and ya fraction of the cost; he aint got the real crazy crazy stuff but you gotta come down and i'll bring ya or send you the address; the other guy has a portable sawmill and has collected wood over years and years and theres some crazy stuff if you just look; hes got 3 kilns on his property, sooo i assume theyre all dried that way too; let me know, im trying to keep this James guy into wanting more of the 'exotic' stuff and he loves hearing about the hot woods of the day peace!

anyone hear of this? this is the story im getting fro my 2 local suppliers; apparently its all going fender; even 3" wide stock for painted bodies; and Fbass says there hoolowing out northern ash to swamp wieght and passing it off; this sucks!

i personnally beleive if you can see it, you can get glue in it; waterd down, clamp and release the pressure and it'll flo; or try spokes idea, ut i dont find ca works well in those apps.

i would try to wick some glue (wood glue) and clamp the crack together, than after give it some CA for giggles, but youd wanna watch out for a tearout that takes the whole piece

make excuses to do it, not, not to do it! j/k

No way man. I can never do that, Always has to be at least 2 going together. my brain goes to mush fixating on a single build, drives me a bit cookoo Lookin realy good Btw. thats actually reeaally good advice, even for firts timers; you start trying too many thigs on one build when theres only one on the go, and it ends up taking as long as 2 tottally different builds

how many walnut bass necks out there? and not the heavilly reinforced necks, or just stringers, it is quite a treat to work with!

they do look cool; i see a ric, a jazz, and sometihng metal, kinda maybe b.c. rich/ some of the ibanez stuff

wht about some kind of transfer decal; along the lines of what ur saying, but more waterslide like; can't get the 'sack' look outta my head with thisquilt idea, and the hokiness might kill the coolness/ auctionability of the guitar

i hope you dont plan on abalone crucifixies and baby jesus' control knobs etc.

looks good man! obviously your backstrapping worked out? cause i was gonna suggest what i use, spare (or even currently used i guess it will bounce back) spindle sander rubber rolls; after prebending and drying, these rubber rolls squish the wood into any unseen crevas, and displace to a tight fit. i jam a flat face block with a matching radius against the roll and clamp it in place then put a clamp on each end of the role as close to the center i can ; i know you like info gathering, so i threw that out there!

i would much rather have an off balanced glue-up than paint, anyday!

smarta$$

is koa a good fingerboard material? i see they offer it; never really thought about it before

my suggestions were made on the basis that he sounds like he doesnt have a lot of tools in his possesion and just wantsto have a proper working guitar; and if he keeps planing he's gonna change the profile of the back of the neck; if he doesnt keep planing he could end up with an ugly glue line