low end fuzz

+1 no ones gonna write you a novel for an easy direct question; you'll find life really hard here if you assume straight answers are some sort of backhanded comments. welcome to the forum; and before anyone else says it; (since i assume your getting started on the best hobby of life!) make friends with the search feature in conjuction with google.

pictures.

it does matter what you have at your disposal; a quick jig and a run thru the thickness sander has gotten me outta this problem before; but something i seen for truing nuts might work; one of those hand drill sanding discs mounted on a drill press would get'r flat; kinda the same idea as a saf-t-planer or hand plane; or if your really desperate use a block to sand it as flat as u can and stick aveneer between the add-on and it will cover any small gaps.... kindof a scabby move but it will work!

there aint nothing 'plain' about that!

yes yes, all very true; but.... my 'question' was about the 'change' that did occur. jazz #1 - 250k 250k 250k (vvt) huge difference between neck and bridge pup; like any jazz; bright bridge muddier neck jazz #2 - 250k 500k 250k (vvt) no discernable difference between the tones of either pickup its just wierd; thought i wondered into a wiring no no for keeping the seperate tones; but thanks

i try to route the fingerboard to somewhere like 1/16 or a lil more depending on what ive planned for the radius; but when its material whos thickness hasnt been pre-determined for me, like wood or plastic i try to keep it thick; like an 1/8 so its not brittle and leave it proud so it can be run under the thickness sander after its secured in epoxy; not normal procedure, but i like it!

getting into an earlier topic about inreasing the highs of my pickups i decided an experiment with my new jazz. i wired the neck in 250 and bridge in 500, in an attempt to exagerate the different tones. they actually sound a lot closer sounding togehter than another jazz i wired with both 250k; is there something happening here that is maybe combining the values to one average one? seems impossible; but so does my results; maybe some way to run them individually to the input so the 2 values never directly connect? thanks

it 'sounds' like your on the road to sucsess; guitar pickups for their sound isnt my thing, for sure; but your wood selection is standard; you have all the drawings in full scale; just have your parts all handy during the build so you can mock it up completely if you getnervous about something, and you'll be fine; post pics when you get started; good luck! grant

are you saying the body is getting the same binding as the neck? cuz, that would be amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!! and thanks for th heads up on the kijiji; he was instructed not to sell it with the trade we made

and that my friend is an American reply; is it a bad thing i enjoyed it a little?

fastest build ever!! man; sneaking your WV logo inside that firebird logo would be waaay too sweet! now i wanna build a firebird; and i hate 'em!

ah yes; thanks; i was under the impression the higher pot value the more highs were filtered out; i will try another cap aswell; any suggestions? or just keep trying till i find one that suits me the best?

inherant to the beast; i know its a pbass pickup and there meant to be beefy and low; but is there any little things i could do to give it more snap? i dont mean trying to turn it into a jazz pickup; but i really like my P (heheh) there QP Duncans wired straight up volume tone 250k w/ orange drop cap .047 i was gonna build a box w/ a 8" and a 10" to top off my cab (its a 15"; which is another culprit in my lows, but the 4x10 is waaaay to high for my jazz which is my main bass; and 12s sound awful for bass) i was thinking of changing the cap; but that wont do anything if its still too deep with it right off; but would a resistor added to the off position (of tone knob)filter lows? dont know much about resistors; the way i understand them is they do the opposite of capacitors; someone set me straight thanks grant

i have a feelin 'wet' its plenty dark; and i like it! good jarb! i cant beleive you pulled that feather off so nicely!!

welcome to the forum! i like the cut of your jib; i will roll a joint; thank you for the good idea!

holly crap; i needed my thesaurus to follow this thread; i'm an avid titebond user, and will stick with it (get it!) one thing ive seen on this board is that if you damn anything, your going to get a backlash, especially when your problems come from human error; but to say our heads are up our a$$es and then give a 1000 word lecture on your teaching career on ''our board" makes me think YOUR head is so far up your own hole it popped back out the top of yur neck. Go back to teaching your students how not to listen to experiences

yes yes; i see; kindof an old tobias headstock idea; that might look cool; aside from the string thru part i think you guys might really enjoy te 2 four strings im polishing up now; dark top and concave 'kinda' headstock thanks again oh and we were gonna venner the pickups with p.h. just opted not to ;last minute

thanks Wez; in hindsight i would of rathered string thru instead aswell; actually that was a make shift fix after my original bridge failed; so im glad you said that cuz thats definatly the next one; i wanna try n find a 3-point style bridge for that! as far as the woods; i can only suggest what gets used on commission pieces; but thank you for backing me up on that one! Is the headstock as ugly as i think it is?

SIX-UAL PREDATOR Thought i would throw this one in; was looking for some constructive critism in the finishing section on my first 6, and didnt really get any, and you guys are pretty straight and honest with GOTM comments so, this will work well specs: Body: african mahogany core w/purpleheat and maple stripes in wrist bevel/cutaway stained heartwood birdseye top w/ p.h. inlay p.h. an b.e.maple back with b.e. cavity covers soft curly maple cap between core and back Neck hard maple with p.h. center maple and p.h. scarf/accents b.e. and p.h. strapping b.e. fingerboard w/ p.h. blocks and edging EMG 45d vol vol tone 2 batteries pearl inlay mahogony/purpleheart knobs w/ abalone markers oil n wax finish

purple (outside) to blue burst! don't fail me m/f IM SERIUOS!!

this was my first 6 string build, and to be honest i was hoping for some constructive critisisms; guess i should prolly go to talkbass or sumtin?

im in the same boat as a lot of people this month; it seemed like i liked everything for one reason or another, so i couldnt vote based on things i liked, basically i had to tally up things i didnt like, to eventually get at a pick; chef- love the woods; everything on that guitar seems to have figure; im sure in person its like a 3D movie; but i found the horns too 'oblong' or disporportioned for me; originally a front runner metalhead- all around clean crisp look, great colour and great wood selection; probly would of voted for it if i didnt watch the whole build, cause it was less suprising to see the finished project watchig every step so frequently; sorry not you- i like this kind of stuff; like the orgmorg style; but not something i could vote for, but something i would have a great time playing Strandberg- i just hate the ergo style of guitars; so ya, sorry. but it is a great treat to see one in natural wood as opose to a vibrant paint job/gloss black; so kudos on the great work; i was wondering how long it was gonna be before i seen someone use those lace pickups; gonna go listen to those sound clips now. hitone-i like wood.... maybe some sound clips would have swayed my opinion but its too 23rd Century for me. Avenger63- once again John you have made a work of pure 'art n soul'; not a huge mirror top fan, but damn that thing looks as professionally done as anything ive seen; unfortunatly the neck join had it bumped from the top spot; so; strictly a 'style' conflict as opose to any 'human error' maddhattr- liked this, looks very organic and comfortable ,reminds me of an old bigsby guitar i seen, merle travis i think? but it was preety stiff competition; nothing really critical i could say RestorationAD- i like this one aswell; it was clicked as a vote but changed at the last moment; kept tellin myself how nice it would of looked wih gold hardware, and something happening on the fretboard; at this point of the decision im getting reeeaaally picky, to try to make up my mind pauliemc-not for me; i thought i might vote for it when i first saw it, cuz it looked like the back was gold! apparently its black but i still dont see it! oursouls- if we had a 'Spirit of the month' compitition you'd be on it like gavy on rice; i love the story and the 'green-ness' of a recycled material; and the carving would be as interesting if you did it yourself; i just like stuff like that even if theres an essence of cheese involved, good work, n keep em comin crow- got my vote this month; and that really suprises me; curly maple topped prs copy; probablythe next most boring thing to me to an ash tele. but when it came down to it; the carve was flawless; the colour really made the curls interesting; like a sunset burst (?) new coined phrase?)) it looked great with the chrome, but im glad you chose a wraparound bridge to limit the amount of metal on the face; i like the inlays, nice twist on a 'common' inlay theme; and i love the headstock with the walnut and the crow accompining the engraving , it reminds me a cover on some crazy novel; would of liked to have seen at least one back shot, but it seemed not to effect as much as it should. good luck!

well; i couldn't imagine doing it after but thank you; there is a close up ofd the scarf a page back; i beleive

buddy came and picked up his bass yesterday; so we took a couple of shots out front in the sun with a better camera; these are not the studio shots; this shot reminds me of Bee basses; full back

you said you sanded it back 3 times today; which means to me you have tried to stain and seal at least twice in one day? i would assume right there some kid of problem would be rushing it and your contamiating each process; it looks like where those marks are, are where moisture wouild harbour te longest; basically where the 'end grain' pops up, like the counter sinking of the knobs and routed areas; i give colour a couple of days just out of practice (whatever the carrier is, alcohol/water) even tho it may seem dry something might be lingering in the grain that bleeds out while the shellac is dying or that u pushed around while applying the shelac; so..... more time, best bet; and aplly the first coats of sealer really thin