low end fuzz

if your so inclined to save money by using veneer and also wanting to colour it, yu have to spend the money on a tinted laqcuer; thats how i sees it anyway!

cool!

i know that clamping a radiused board is ''perfectly legitimate'' but whenever i see a tragedy like that; its the first thing i blame; pressure is always most even when placed on flat surfaces; even if it is a humidity issue, i would expect to see it happen a day or a few after it came out of the clamps and the bond was broken; gaps (almost) immediatly would tell me the glueing suface(s) were not true or the pressure was not squeezing down on that spot; i use an oversized hard maple slab and 2 small h.maple blocks with 8-9 C clamps and take them out of the clamps within hours; i havent had a problem since my 3rd build; and that was a problem with the flatness of the surfaces. it is a shame tho; this will still be a great looking guitar; i use the same thing for the back of my necks; and i shim the nut end up for tapered backs!

manufacturers are the professionals; theyve sunk all the time and money into developing a playable instrument that is flawless in 'every' way; then the cutom guiys take that and put a soul into it; but for the most part their still using mass produced hardware that as far as specs go; have to work in tandem with all these parts and anything else tat could be changed would be based on your personal opinion at the time of building it.

badass II 1 saddle incorrectly grooved; i'd almost rather try to fudge grinding back the 2 flat sides than buy a whole new bridge for it if ya know what i mean!

cant find em anywhere; my internet search found me in a conversation at talkbass that pointed me to basspartresource but they dont have any; an that was the closest thing to a start! anyone who has some or have seen them would be great; im going to start my ebay search now! thanks

+1 i dont know any glue that takes stain

this might be an interesting little project! thank you!

ya; cow! i would go to the closest reputabil music store with a selection of nuts with your board and just ry em all; it seems you wont lose sleep over material choices; so go with one that fits

i'm listening; tell me more!

and its about to be worth a lot less.

learning would save you alot of time! never tried it; but "sawing" thru frets does not sound like any sort of fun; and im telling you, this sort of thinking in this application will not get you what your after; first if you saw thru a fret, chances are (even if theyre epoxied in) most if not all will shake free from friction and/or heat (glued) and even if you got thru to the board, you would still have the tangs inthe wood to deal with which will be nightmare with any kind of wood blade, and a metal blade has no decent chance of gettin it done for you, if you somehow have the patience to get thru past this stage, your gonna have to level the edge again; hoping you didnt slip and eat into parts of the desired board; where the best method would be an edge sander so its actually straight; and after all that; your going to have to dress the fret ends; and really i think thats the challenging part of fretting (perfect radiusing and leveling of the board i think is the next 'challenging') good luck; sounds like you might wanna get a new board

this one looks good; personally id add something tothe neck to show off the laminates, because theyre 2 dark woods; like maple veneer,

i would assume any kind of sawing action would remove most of the frets for you if your insisting on not removing the frets; a mistake as i see it; sanding would be the way to go; like on an edge sander that has a hard back like 40 grit oxi paper and long enuff to hit the entire edge at once; and your still gonna have to redo the ends of the frets; but i think its the only way i'd encourage

he is known to me, as the first thing he always says to me; "aw hey man" (in a very tommy chong type voice) he's good s#!t; although Mel's the man, if your lookin for a deal!

would someone ;such as myself, who solders only out of necesity ,not of enjoyment, benifit from ordering a pre-wired varitone switch? in other words, is this the kind of switch that will give a novice a reason to kill another living person? i see the schematic; it looks like a bunch of wires on top of each other, but i can never tell the effort until all the stuffs infront of me; thanx

Exotic in Burlington had a whack of "5A" from PRS; is that where you went?

is a varitone a good replacement for a tone knob; or work better in conjunction with?

Im trying to Utilize materials openly available to me, and experiment with various wood types before moving onto more expensive woods. I sort of knew that making a neck out of a counter material than the body won't work as well as I want it to, but you never know until you try or ask. I had already spent $8 on a piece of maple, and want to try something with it. Its useless for making necks, so why not try a body? If anything, Id give it to someone and tell them to practice on it, as it would probably less crappy than any other guitar they may have... Lulz, just give it to them and ask for $8 bucks... my problem with this thinking is; your starting a project that your disapointed with before the first cut; and maple gives (some) people a hard time i.e. splitting and router burns that just dont happen with other wood; i understand where your comin from with the 'it cost me $8' and its good to make the most of whats at your disposal; but after all this, to get it working on bare minimum china grade hardware your lookin at at least $100; and i think thats generously low. personally if you want a great learning project glue together a couple a thick plywood pieces and paint it solid colour; you'll get the shaping practice on an easy substrate aswell as routing ;making templates; and great practice on smoothing and finishing for about $6; and you'll still have the maple; which if it were me (unless its figured; doesnt sound it) i'd use it for body laminates (always good to have extra for thickness build up) on future builds..............my 2 cents

you set it on fire didn't you?

very ambitious; but fabulous!

i'll take your word on that one; cause i wont be finding out myself anytime soon; plus guitars can be alot more leiniant than bass necks but still personally would not go down that road

well..... good for you taking on such an extreme project; it would seem you need to think more out of the box to accomidate the strings and such; for the truss rod; how did you place it? is it held in with just pressure; or glued? ive replaced truss rods without removing the board (that are just held in by squeeze); as long as it has clear path straight out; then put the new one back in the same way; not optimal, but i always try that first; i put dabs of silicone on the last bit of rod to go in to hold it; barely any, just enuff it doesnt fall out upside down

i think you got it; but i would say one thing i would assume would to be common sense; don't throw a piece of something in there that you wouldnt make a whole neck out of; i.e. dont throw a piece of poplar or swamp ash in there (something veneer or slightly thicker wouldnt matter but..) remember the biggest positive about a scarf joint is the reinforcment on a fragile area of grain 'flow' of the neck; so dont turn it into a negative, and learn from my recent 'mistake' ; a 1/4" insert looks good in glue up, but when you carve into it; it becomes 3x the size at the back of the neck; so carefully plan how big you want it to look in the end good luck! grant