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low end fuzz

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Posts posted by low end fuzz

  1. lookin good; lovin that walnut

    Hey Grant, I thought you disappeared on us....till I saw that cool new build you've got going. Good to see you again.

    SR

    lol!

    i guess i did!

    this site keeps shutting down my posts, no explanation or anything, thought i would post my build, but they did it again!

    i dunno what im doin to upset these guys soo much but im out, im sick of it; basically i come back to check out your builds!

    your like the only guy with super luthier skills, that isnt on my facebook or on talkbass.

    still lovin this; its comin out Amazing!!!!

    grant

  2. different strokes for different folks! lol!

    i do alot of things myself i would never advise someone else to do; and im not saying its not possible to make 2 pieces of wood stick together with glue straight off the table saw, im saying that its not a quality i would expect from someone taking themselves seriously should settle for; my first bass neck ever was glued up off a table saw, and at that time i was satisfied, but now that i know waht a real glue line looks like its not even something id show my grandmother;

    but if somehow you have a table saw blade and some kind of feed that can cut a prestine line that perfect, i would say go with it....as your thickness, but 100% hit those gluing edges with the jointer, count passes, and make sure you take off exactly the same amount on every lam and you can pass it off as perfect.

    if were gonna touch on personal opinions, a characteristic of a glue joint should be suction cup like grab between the 2 pieces with only hand pressure fitting with glue.

  3. Build a Drum Sander on your drill press.

    Get a 3" sanding drum and chuck it up in your drill press. Make a fence the same height as the Drum. Set the fence to the thickness you want (meaning the gap between the fence and the Drum) and have at it.

    Do a google search for Drill Press Thickness Sander and you will come up with several examples.

    Don't hurt yourself or your wood using a jointer for thin lams.

    i'll give that a go. Thanks RAD.

    Yeah don't be using a jointer for thin lams it's scary doing stuff like that. It's foolish to try stuff like that, I learned that the hard way.

    You mentioned that glueing the strips together right out of the table saw won't glue up right. Thats what I always do with thin laminates and have never had problems. I joint if it's a three piece neck and the pieces are bigger but otherwise I don't and I have never had problems.

    Just glue them up as is.

    sorry; horrible advice.

  4. i dont think your getting the straight answer you want because what your asking is just dangerous; thin lams should go thru a thicknessing machine, a planer would work but one snipe or tearout on a thin piece would ruin it, i like your idea of double sided taping it and going that way, but in the end i doubt if they would be equally thick, they would be flat on both sides on the end but it wouldnt be true, its just not what a jointer was meant to do. imo

  5. hey Scott; I will tot he best of my ability give a testimonial to the osage; alot of my judging will come from how its like to work with, cuz im not a guitar player and dont hear certain characteristics well; and yes its a guitar and will have the classic 6 strings; the neck pickup will be practically riding the edge of the fingerboard, and the truss rod has a 1/4" hex nut on it; and i need the clearance for the tool to fit; so quite givin me a hard time :D

    this 'tunnel' wont be seen but its the same way i do all my bolt on acesses

    002-12.jpg

  6. so way back when; i started cutting up some wood and glued up a neck;

    the neck is mahogany with a tapered center of osage orange, the fingerboard; tho it doesnt show in the pics, and for that matter prolly wont show in person when finished; is curly ebony; right off the planer you can see the 'lightning bolts all over it, but i had a fretless i used a piece for, and it looks more like dull spots on the board, when you look closely; ah well...its still ebony :D

    i had a one piece 1" mahagony body with a quilted maple cap and lacewood center, kinda using up cool woods i had; i needed to find something around half inch to stick between to bring it up to thickness; and couldnt find anything, and eventually just put it on the shelf;

    a recent build i did had a 21" cutoff of wenge, when i saw it just sitting there it triggered my interest, i already had all the hardware and pickups so here we go

    013-8.jpg

    016-4.jpg

    012-10.jpg

    014-7.jpg

  7. i go the store and get the wood from the carmalized maple shelf! lol!

    sorry;

    actually its a process done up here in Canada; they actually cook it and the sugars carmalize; the hard maple goes this colour but the soft goes the most delicious chocolte brown; its got an essence of red to it in person;

    IMG_0794.jpg

    that is the wood colour (the body)no stain just finish

    the attempt in my understanding was to offset the demand for mahogany with somthing plentiful and domestic; in that way i beleive it was an utter failure; but some of this wood is fantastic and smells faaantassssttic! (and it wont kill you enjoying it!)

  8. 001-10.jpg

    and finished; that was fast! lol

    5 coats wop no grain fill, simple levelling and a polish

    old p pickups i had

    vol/tone/varitone

    hipshot vintage bridge

    might change the control plate to somthing dark or add an amber colour if it bugs me in the future.

    very basic p sound on the .047 cap; and variations of course thru the varitone;

    very nice to play; might be my starting bass after all

    005-10.jpg

    007-8.jpg

    thanks for looking!

  9. this was a little project ive been putting together little by little of scrap peices and parts; i had 2 orders on the go; that were stagered in process but still times where i could only do an hour or so of work on them; like gluings and stuff; where i didnt want to leave the shop yet so i made an additional project i could just whip thru;

    it is to be my back up p-bass for my band;

    i only thought of taking photos half way thru, so this is all there is

    006-6.jpg

    008-5.jpg

    mahogany core

    quilted top

    claro back

    carmalized maple stringers

    carmalized maple neck w/ zebrano center

    maccassar fingerboard

  10. hmmm;

    on the few projects ive wanted a very level finish and had to pore fill, ive only needed one coat of WB filler (stew mac) and some touch ups;

    i sand to 180; fill the pores; i use my hands, i never remeber to but a brush; rub it on, and i dont even sqeegee it off; resand 180, look for dips in the light, slop on more in spots i need it (i just use a popsicle stick) resand spots and finish; i always level my finish at least twicw during the process, which could be the secret; but i find the filling the part that gives me the least greif; thats on ash and walnut mostly

  11. <rant>

    This may not be the place for it so mods remove the rant if it is out of line.

    I think a lot of entries this past few months are missing the spirit of the forum by not taking part in anything other than the GOTM. I would like to see more involvement from the guys entering. A few entries mention how they have benefited from the PG forum. If you have gained so much what did you give? I have a hard time voting for guitars that just appear... no build thread... no discussions... no nothing.

    I spend a lot of time detailing my builds in the hopes that someone can glean some info or help from them. I appreciate it when others do the same.

    So I ask this question. What did you contribute?

    </rant>

    In my continuing quest to be more critical and give more usable feedback here is what I have. I mean no disrespect and offer these opinions as what they are opinions.

    koelker12 - Nice paint job. I am not a fan of the headstock at all... doesn't flow with the iceman body. Everything else looks pretty good though I would suggest better pictures. No build thread.

    feral smurf - Nice swirl. I like it however I think the rest of the guitar is a mystery. In the future please show more of the guitar. You need to take better pictures as I would like to see the modified headstock. I look forward to future swirl attempts.

    osario - Very nice work. It was tough not to vote for this. I am disappointed there is no build thread.

    brutal iv - Looks like a very well built guitar. I really would to have loved to see the Makore plain. I just can't vote for airbrushed guitars... can't wait to see the next one. No build thread.

    geekmorris - I like the intention of the guitar and I hope your girl appreciates the work. Fair enough for first refinish. Not really a build though. No build thread.

    avenger - I voted for this one. John this is one of your better pieces. The craftsman ship on the neck is excellent. I think that the inlays came out very nice and the regular tuners look like they belong. The body shape and pickgaurd look excellent. Who doesn't love a firebird equipped with a Kahler? I still think you need to take a little more time on the details (the edges of the headstock look uneven). The burst is the only detraction. I think I would have done a tri-tone dark brown fade burst.

    strandberg - Ola the blue doesn't work for me with the wenge top. The guitar is amazing otherwise and I think your craftsmanship has actually gotten better if that was possible. I really like the design and the bend on the armrest. The detail at the fretboard/body joint is really nice.Thank you for sharing in your innovations with us.

    scott french - Incredible guitar. I feel your pain on shooting the black top. If you think shooting black is hard try shooting fluorescents. The wood choices are really fine. The heal plate is a wonderful touch. The string guide system is a very nice design. I have always been inspired by your take on modern guitars as they have a traditional feel with a modern design. Saying no to this was very hard. However this one is a bit too classic and II think I like your more progressive work better. I would love to see more contributions to discussions from builders with your experience. No build thread.

    ragas - I understand the function. I do not like the design though. Please do not take all my comments as criticism but as a critique. Think "mostly Harmless". I feel that the guitar's proportions are off and it is missing a flow. The waist of the guitar is very high and the contours on the edges do not seem even. The horns point a bit strange for my eye. The headstock is too big and for this design I would use something very slim and sleek. I do not understand why you would go to such great lengths to design such a thin neck and follow it up with a huge headstock (but that is just me). As for sound I am not a fan of SS frets as they are too bright IMHO and I would think that a full stainless FB or neck would follow suit. No Build thread (understandable if you are seeking patents)

    Great Rant

    I agree 100%. If you don't have a build thread for your entry then it should be removed.

    Also as pointed out by D E S Your first post should be in the GOTM.

    My vote went to OLA

    best guitar and he had a build thread and contributes to the forum. Hell he gave us his Bread and Butter.

    Kudos to you Ola.

    Peace

    Sorry; couldnt disagree more.

    i get what your saying and its valid; but thats your right to have that as a reason not to vote for that build, it shouldnt be a pre-requiset for the competition; if im putting all i got into a build and am very proud of the finished product why cant i try to get some recognition if im too busy to to keep a journal?

    this is the one part of the forum that is tottally a bueaty pagent;

    if you had a build thread of the month; that would be just;

  12. some easy digestible words of advice i heard for some of these questions are like; 4-5mm of wood on each side of the truss rod; seasoned wood wont warp (nesessarly) just succumb to string tension where the truss rod;with enough material to take the pressure will adjust;

    your width shoukd be determined by your bridge spacing to desired nut width e.g. 40mm; make a drawing from your outer saddles to where you want your strings e.g. 30mm apart 15mm on each side of your center line add the 5mm on each side and there you go;

    if your just looking to make a body shape thats tried and true, trace a factory shape and just go from there; have all your hardware handy and you cant go wrong; your only making a vessel for all of it; thru necks can be a challenge; but no more than anything else if your focussed; i stay clear because i dont have the room in my shop to walk around with a full 50" the whole process

    good luck

    show your progress

  13. heres another one iv been doing whilst im waiting for the top wood for the cherry blossom one. i dont have anything to put it on yet, i just had the idea and wanted to do it so i did.

    nothings stuck together yet and its not pushed together right so there wont be so many gaps when its in place (in whatever its going to be in place in). also, some of the finer bits snapped off when i was cutting so there are points missing. but o well

    oh, and shes about 60mm from hair to toe

    SAM_1066.jpg

    whoa fatty! :D

  14. i dont even use my thickness planer anymmore since i git my t. sander, but when i run stuff to small or thin for it i run it on a board with sandpaper stuck to it for traction; dunno if that could handle the blades cutting into it; but what about same idea with some double sided tape?

    i would suggest being able to hold onto 1 end at a time, shallow passes and a true side to start

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