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CrazyManAndy

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Everything posted by CrazyManAndy

  1. Biology. I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that you're right-handed. Whichever hand is dominant, that arm/hand is measurable stronger than the other. The muscle mass may not look bigger, and in fact may not be in any easily noticable way, but the dominant hand and arm are stronger and more naturally developed. Hmm...I have a slightly different theory.... CMA
  2. I'm no expert, but I do know that any violin worth its salt is finished in a "violin" varnish. I would recommend again using poly. I've never seen a violin, except for very low end junkers, finished with a heavy finish like poly. My violin is finished with a varnish and it shows the figure quite nicely. CMA (Edit: This is the model of the violin that I have: http://www.giannaviolins.com/vl/gv/gv200.html. Mine actually has more figure than the one pictured.)
  3. You might find this link to be of some use: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...Feiten&st=0 CMA
  4. I'm afraid I can't help, but, for future reference, water or mineral spirits will achieve the same purpose and neither are permanent. CMA
  5. For my guitar build, the drill press and router have been the most vital and most used tools so far. I'm wagering it'll stay that way (for the most part). They certainly get props for versatility. If I were you, I'd invest in those two first. Of course, if you don't have a band saw you'll need a jig saw to do the rough cutting; also, a portable drill is a must. As far as drill presses go, I have the 12 in. Craftsman. Got a deal on it at the store, otherwise it's about the same price as the Delta you mentioned. It's not amazing, but it gets the job done. It also got mostly favorable reviews just about everywhere I looked. I honestly don't know about the quality of those cheap presses (if you do go the cheap rout, you might want to check out Harbor Freight). Personally, I just feel a little more at ease paying a bit more to buy a name brand tool that has been oft reviewed and gives me access to customer service. CMA
  6. Titebond, or other similar wood glue, is pretty common for most applications. Epoxy is also used. Hide-glue is used occasionally, but mostly for classical instruments. And yes, it is strong enough to hold a guitar together. It better be, considering virtually every guitar (and most string-instruments in general) has been made using glue, though some use more than others. CMA
  7. Yeah, it would be nice if something could be done at the sign-up process (captcha or unique input, etc.). I'd be willing to become a "half mod" to help deal with the spam. I usually check the forum two or three times a day, at least, so it wouldn't be a big deal for me. CMA
  8. Stunning guitar! A telecaster boring? NEVER! CMA
  9. Quick update: I cleaned up the edges with the router. Looks pretty good. The glue line is a little more obvious than I would like. I also futz'd up the heel a bit with the router. You can see it in the fourth pic. I'll have sand that out. Pic 3 Pic 4 Pic 5 CMA
  10. This guitar does look a lot nicer than the Variax. It certainly costs more! Buying them just to salvage the electronics would be an expensive proposition indeed. Apparently, they make special strings for the guitar as well. One must use them for "best performance", but they said regular guitar strings can be used. I would like know how much of a difference the strings actually make. CMA
  11. http://www.premierguitar.com/Magazine/Issu...oog_Guitar.aspx http://moogmusic.com/moogguitar/?section=p...roduct_id=21131 I would love to have all that in one guitar...but the price is a bit steep for my wallet. CMA (Edit: I fixed the first link, sorry about that. It has a pretty cool video.)
  12. I need to stop promising updates. Every time I do that, it never happens! But that's ok, it's all good now. I need to get this bastard finished! Finally tackled the glue-up again, and it went really well this time. Just a note: most of the glue-up pics, except for the third one, are from my first attempt. I followed almost the same process, save for the trick with the nails. The Neck 28 - Applying silicon to the location where the brass blocks will sit. The Neck 29 - Truss rod in. The Neck 30 - Getting ready to apply the glue. I got the smallest nails I could find at Wal-mart, 17 gauge I believe they are. The fret will cover up the indentations left by the nails. The Neck 31 - Glue applied. The Neck 32 - Removed the tape. The Neck 33 - Fretboard has been attached and the clamps applied. It's very hard to nail the fretboard down because the glue causes it to slide around. If you've got a partner, like I had, it's much easier. I left it with the clamps on for twenty-four hours and waited another twenty-four to begin work on it. The Neck 34 1 2 - The glue has had sufficient time to dry. The Neck 35 - Using the band saw, I will remove most of the excess. Patience is the key here. The band saw has no problem going right into the neck wood, if you let it! The Neck 36 - Excess removed. The Neck 37 - Time to bring the fretboard closer to flush using the robo-sander. The guide bearing is slightly larger than the sanding drum, so there will be a very small amount of excess left. The Neck 38 1 2 3 - Done with the robo-sander. I'm currently debating whether to sand the rest or use the router. I'm leaning toward the router, as their is very little edge left, thus tear out shouldn't be a problem (I hope). What do YOU think? CMA
  13. Did you see the link I posted? I recommend that process, if you are using the foam pads, as it is a relatively simple, complete polishing schedule. CMA
  14. I think the spalt is very cool. Just depends on what you do with it. CMA
  15. If you're using nitro, there is no need to sand the color coat. Try not to touch it either, you don't want to get dirt and oils on it. Do you only have one buffer? Only use one compound per buffer. So, if you plan on using a coarse/medium/fine polishing schedule, or something similar, you'll need a buffer for each. You should find this useful: http://reranch.com/reranch/viewtopic.php?t=20556 Look at Structo's post, the eighth post down (the long one with pictures). He describes how he used Stew-mac's buffing pads and polishing compounds. The rest of the thread may hold useful tips as well. CMA
  16. What kind of paint are you using? You don't need to scuff sand nitro. CMA
  17. Reminds me of Dakota Red, but it's hard to tell with the swirling and color contrasts. CMA
  18. There is a video on the net showing a guy using the cove bit/drill press combo. It's been posted here a couple of times, you might be able to find it with the search function. CMA
  19. Excellent! You are indeed correct. The ingenuity of Googling, eh? Ok, so who else google'd it? (I know I did. ) The funniest thing was the guy walking in the background, like nothing was going on. CMA
  20. Awesome! And excellent job on taking the pic too. CMA
  21. Do you have an example pic of what you're looking for exactly? CMA
  22. I know that. I provided it for anyone else who wanted to reply. CMA
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