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Prostheta

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Everything posted by Prostheta

  1. I don't think so (at a guess) as the body isn't a "stress taking" part of the body. If it was the neck, then you'd have a good couple of inches of grain ready to split as soon as you put string/truss rod tension on it :-) The only part that may take tension badly is the neck joint when the neck "pulls" the wood upwards on the same axis as the grain. In this case I presume a bolt-on configuration would help to spread the load to the back of the wood and through the neck joint. This is purely an educated guess and I am more than willing to learn that I am wrong if indeed I am. Hope my thoughts help your thought processes, etc. In future, I would run the grain the length of the guitar of course!
  2. Shame you won't have any scrap to experiment on. Unless you want to wait another 45 days to make some. Can you reflow slightly and also dropfill a tiny amount whilst the finish is solvent?
  3. Grab some sanding dust from the body and mix it with CA glue or wood glue. Much nicer!
  4. GAAHHHH!! Dude, that's got to suck wayloads you know? I hope you can recover this project....
  5. ESP have the LTD, Grassroots and Edwards brands. I bought a set-neck natural mahogany Edwards Explorer from Katana Guitars in Japan who exported it to the UK for me. If you get a private company to mark up the box as "item returned under warranty repair" then you generally tend to avoid import duty *cough*. Saved me a good hundred or so quid. Nice! IMO, the Edwards is as nice, if not better than my LTD EXP-200 and came with EMG 81s as standard. Even nicer! Not played a Grassroots, but if the quality works across the board then I'd go for it man.
  6. Wow - this post is of no help to you (apart from moral support) but best of luck with that!! I'll be following this thread with interest.
  7. I have the Morley power wah - cheap and pretty cool. Wouldn't mind trying the Bad Horsie 1 or 2, or an old Morley Distortion Wah.
  8. Lucite specifically recommend Cyanocrylate glues for bonding Perspex to a wooden substrate. I *do* not think so. Epoxy test in the pipeline.
  9. Okay - the horses mouth spoke. No alcohols or solvents, especially acetone to be let near it! Epoxy is a definate thumbs up.
  10. Sounds good to me. Epoxy makes sense. Will post back in this thread (or a new one) when I get around to testing it, and *what* I'm creating!
  11. I was thinking of Perspex sheetings - 5mm sheeting to be exact!
  12. Not to blow what I'm going to attempt here (it'll be awesome though!!) but I need to know what glues will adhere plastic to wood either as a laminate top or a sandwich in a multi-lam. I well understand that I do *not* want to try using plastics in a neck laminate of course (or do I?!). I presume that the glue face would need roughing a fair amount with say, 120 grit to key the face.
  13. Ugh. Morning. Too early to think. Tell me what you want the circuit to do, how much space you have for pots/switches and I'll come up with something for you tonight. I tell you what though - dialling out a coil from a bucker with a semi coil tap is way cooler than tap switches!
  14. Without thinking about it (midnight here - tired!) I think that you're getting crazy phase cancellation. Low frequencies have much longer waves than higher ones, so the cancellation produces a comb filter attenuation which at lower frequencies can be pretty dramatic. If I remember correctly that is. It might be worthwhile reversing the phase of one pickup to see what result that gives you. Incidentally, wouldn't reducing the volume of one pickup in your design ground the entire output of the circuit? Bad move man! Sorry I don't have much time to think about this more, but I think the design is flawed a little....I would consider semi coil taps using pullpots to fully tap the coils out on your humbuckers or dial out a coil as a "tone control in the middle of the bucker", and a linear pot to blend between the two outputs (pickup to either side of a pot, wiper is your output) and you could even pullpot this to reverse the phase of one pickup. Three controls there - a fourth (space permitting) would be an overall tone control or overall volume. Oh the possibilities!! Oops. Better sleep. Hope you get your head around this better than me man!
  15. Thanks - I figured (no joke intended) that it would look pretty cool on a V or Explorer style guitar to complement the angles of the body as opposed to the perpendicular of the centreline. I can see difficulty in acquiring bookmatch figure wide enough to work on an Explorer though!
  16. Okay, so I guess there'll be a better way that people use on this one, but bear with me because I'd like to know if my thought train is going in the right direction and thinking in the right way ;-) A picture is worth a million (or less than ten) words: Basically, reface your bookmatch, aligning the end grain so you know it's totally face to face (mark the edges to align?) and clamping the wood in the direction you want to angle the bookmatch. Using a jointer or router table, rout along the guide and Bob's your mother's brother! Obviously, issues such as tearout can be dealt with by good bits, not routing too much at once and dampening the edge slightly I guess. Would this work well, or just be a potential waste of good wood? It seems to work in theory, and you obviously learn by your mistakes and experience. So I've decided to learn from others mistakes and experience rather than from my pockets bad experiences.
  17. If it's sticky you might be able to do the "women's wax leg treatment" kind of approach and layer porous paper over the top and heat it till it's sticky to rip it off a bit. How about cheap-ass masking tape? Tape it (not overlaying tape layers) across the neck short ways and leave it a couple of weeks to "bond". Heatgun it a little and see if the masking tape rips it off a bit. My way of thinking here is to exploit the common flaws in badly made paintjobs which (after all) seem to be more common than those made in good paintjobs! Best of luck in this, and I would advice trying techniques in small controllable areas before committing to the entire neck.
  18. Don't worry unless you have direct sources of ignition. Just watch your Danish oil rags and Bunsen burners dude. No direct sunlight, and you're about fine. Look at your average hardware store and how they store the flammables :-) Not seen them explode much.
  19. Hmmm. I was actually considering mounting a router under the bench I have and making a bunk router table out of it for jointing wood. No doubt I'll run out of bench real-estate before then of course! Might be a consideration....
  20. That sounds pretty cool. Any chance of sharing a link in this thread? I'm sure I can find it on Axminster, the amount of time I've been on there!
  21. Considering what I've had to do as far as sanding work goes on the LPDC, lots! I can appreciated the Robosander being good for following template work, but I can colour within the lines so it's staying on the list, and not going into Room 101 ;-) Will check out 3dhardwoods.com for sure - thanks! How many projects have you completed Sambo?
  22. Hey Sambo - I only just noticed that you're in Wales man. I might go test those numbers for gits and shiggles ;-) Where do you tend to buy most of your wood from? I guess it'll cost you no more than it would me. Being green to most things in this area, i'm resorting to my usual research head and testing the waters with cheap sticks before getting my expensive boots wet so to speak. As for Axminster, they just have the heads up in Google search listings for most things I think an updated list of "things to buy" would be: - bandsaw - 1/2" shank router (decent) - router table for jointing glue planes of bodies - oscillating bobbin/belt sander (emailed Ridgid's UK distro) - drill press with laser lining (good throat capacity - 13cm seems small to me) - lottery ticket The jury is still out on the thicknesser type though. I'd love to have both as thicknessing is probably the most mundane of jobs for building guitars, hence I think it can be relegated to the bit before the installation of true mojo, thereby keeping the I-Made-This factor closer to 100%. If the big JET machine will obviate the planer/thicknesser then cool. Instant big machinery! Better go measure the door to see if I can fit big-ass things through it I guess. How stupid would I feel if I couldn't fit that £600 sander through the workshop door? I'll do some shopping around on Metabo, Sambo. They seem pretty well recommended "over here" so it's an option for sure.
  23. Meh - found an oscillating belt sander in the UK Erik - but it's huge! Why oh why don't we have a decent mid-range of tools in the UK anymore?! Everything is either cheap and generic (read: useless) or it's designed for big results and steps up beyond hobbyist level?! Pish. At least something like that would RULE for finishing internal perpendicular planes like these!
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