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Everything posted by Prostheta

  1. Totally the same as thegarehanman. Two sash cramps, and four F-screw clamps. The greaseproof paper is a must also. Much better than chiselling MDF caul scraps off your glue seepage lines! The best thing is that the sash cramps I have are so large, you can pick up the glued piece by the bars and lean it against a wall whilst it's curing. Then you can get on with the next set :-)
  2. Angle grinder! A surprisingly efficient and controllable tool when used to carve contours :-)
  3. Sorry, I'm not usually pedantic but it's spelt FINISH with one N. My wife is Finnish (as in from Finland) so it kind of wicks on me a little, you know. All meant in the best of humour of course!
  4. Done. PM sent. Well, not sent but sent in two minutes if you read this post retrospectively as opposed to me writing it like, right now. Sorry, should have left it at "done". Done. DHL. That'll save me a tidy trip on Saturday as I'm off to the sawmills and my Cougar does like to drink the petrol on these stuff-acquiring excursions.
  5. Link posted in that other flood thread of yours.
  6. Where in the UK are you based? Got to figure collection or shipping on this one....I'm in Lincoln....
  7. I'll take all three off you for £125. *dons asbestos underwear*
  8. For my wife's birthday I've slated a LP build but I'm chambering it and adding a LR Baggs or Graphtec TOM bridge. My wife usually plays a Washburn EA20SDL so I'd like to create a sister :-)
  9. Heh - reminds me in an obscure way about a discussion I had with an aircraft engineer about inflating performance car tyres with inert gases. I say up with Kryton inflated Les Pauls! Sorry, I had the urge for a second. *ahem*
  10. Gurrrrh. I'm too drunk on Finlandia right now to recall my qualifications in electronics. Let this be a lesson to you. Gurrrrh.
  11. Well, rather than me learn through spoon-feeding, let's give it a whirl eh? I'll be sure to let you know how much I mess* up. *f, etc.
  12. If it's wood, then you can - yes. It's basically a method of using water and heat to expand the wood fibres in the dent. Use a wet tissue and a soldering iron. Works nicely on my natural oiled mahogany Explorer, which to be honest, dents whenever you look too hard at it. You may have to sand the swollen wood flat, and the finish (if any) way need retouching. Sorry I haven't any links to a perfect solution, but this one works for me. YMMV.
  13. Agreed. Planer thicknesser/jointer perhaps, but drum sander thicknesser? The buyer must have all the time in the world to churn out guitars. Watch out Ken Lawrence. Somebodies got a thickness sander!!
  14. http://www.guitarbuildingtemplates.com Ronnie will sell you the full Thunderbird templating for everything - I've just ordered that set myself. You'll find it difficult to acquire a T-Bird body on it's own purely because it never came as a bolt-on, ergo not many people have them apart! Epiphone did a cheaper version as bolt-on IIRC. Nobody has released a CAD file publicly. Oh yes, direct link: http://www.guitarbuildingtemplates.com/Thunderbirdbass.htm
  15. Retail is an easy job to get, and all you receive in thanks for your efforts (which I must add, I never did give on pure principle) is a crap paycheck and a lack of thanks. No thanks. It's too easy for retail companies to make employees feel there isn't another job out there for them, and this is as good as it gets. It isn't - that's as BAD as it gets. Push for other jobs and be in other employers faces. Show them what you have and what you can do. If you're masochistic, work for yourself and see how bad an employer you can be to yourself ;-) Chin up, chest out f*** retail unless it just
  16. I would agree on the custom shop angle, but if you go to a friendly dealer you can get a hell of a lot of discount off the price. My wife used to deal with ESP for customs, and there's a pretty significant fraction you can take off the cost for dealer profit. Not sure how it works with Jackson. If you want it done badly (as in well, I mean) there are plenty of people who do sterling work on this board who would be more than happy to do the work, but won't pull punches on the sum cost of labour and parts. It's not a cheap job to have done well, but you can easily have it done badly if you don't
  17. I used to run the HDR and SYL websites four or five years back. Dropped it out of necessity because I almost got made homeless :-( The new album was rushed for the Ozzfest tour, and Dev is pretty bummed out by the whole deal. Time for time out I think.
  18. How did you make the purpleheart and maple binding that thin? I'm wondering how to do this myself to be honest, short of relying on the wood binding direct from Stewmac!
  19. I feel that a matching cap on the head to the body "dampens" the overall effect. If you've gone to the lengths to make it a laminate body and neck with beautiful woods then show them off. Unless it looks gaudy in which case - don't. As far as a the maple burl goes, i'd say "do". Oh yes, howdy-doo neighbouroonie!!
  20. I was thinking more around your tank oscillating in sympathy with some part of your amp. Thing is, 60Hz or multiples thereof are actually closer to B than G. Good to hear your solution was cheaper and simpler. Not as cheap as simple as my car problems I bet!!
  21. I'll second Matt's opinion also. Make a cup of tea (no milk, no sugar thanks), dunk your pickups rings and forget about it for a while.
  22. Sawdust and wood glue worked nicely in guitars where I've moved strap buttons or plugged/drilled new holes from stripped threads. Mix some up with a matchstick and plug it in there something chronic - make sure you don't plug air in there though! The other option would be to open out the hole with a drill and gluing a dowel into the body using wood glue again. One option is prettier and less obvious, the other is plain to see but probably easier to get perfect results.
  23. I don't think so (at a guess) as the body isn't a "stress taking" part of the body. If it was the neck, then you'd have a good couple of inches of grain ready to split as soon as you put string/truss rod tension on it :-) The only part that may take tension badly is the neck joint when the neck "pulls" the wood upwards on the same axis as the grain. In this case I presume a bolt-on configuration would help to spread the load to the back of the wood and through the neck joint. This is purely an educated guess and I am more than willing to learn that I am wrong if indeed I am. Hope my thou
  24. Shame you won't have any scrap to experiment on. Unless you want to wait another 45 days to make some. Can you reflow slightly and also dropfill a tiny amount whilst the finish is solvent?
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