Rashin

even tho it's still off topic, who has extra tickets to the NAMM show????

Thanks so much for all your great compliments! I have some other ideas in the works for my next build, which will be a 1 piece bloodwood guitar... Ill keep this thread updated with any new ideas, and some more pictures of the cocobolo guitar. On the cocobolo guitar there wasnt a rear trem cover due to my rush get it to the GOTM thread. It is fully finished now, and I will post some pics asap. Next time tho, I will not use a trem, and the back will be fully naked without any routing at all!

Is there a way to attend the Namm show without a namm mebership?

Mine has natural beauty without make-up! Thanks for the votes.

hey guys! I actually finished the work I was talking about on this thread, and my guitar is in in the Guitar of the Month Thread. Take a look and vote if you like. Thanks!

This guitar was built entirely from one bookmatched piece of 12/4 Cocobolo from Nicaragua. The only glue joints include the bookmatch and the fretboard. (you can see the grain following it's way up the neck in the second picture). There is no finish. The raw wood was buffed to a mirror finish. There is no front or rear routing. The knobs are mounted to plugs, which are pressed into place, and sanded clean. Please exuse the amateur photography and the lack of truss rod cover. I was rushing to finish for this thread. Hopefully you appreciate the out of the box thinking and good luck voting!

Ok I think I got it. I'll see if I can possibly get this done tonight and I can upload some pictures. I think the trick is to get a nice tight fit on the plug so it can be tapped in, and it will come out with some considerable force if needed. You could also use some long flathead screws if you wanted to hold it in with a press fit. Is there an american distributor for those Jaycar Pots? Mini pots (round body) would also work, but you would have to make a circular bore on the inside of the plug, and accomodate the solder eyes. Let me know what you guys think.

I've sprayed bedliner many times into my Jeep... Is there a reason you think this would be a good idea? I can see it making your skin pretty raw...

Thanks for all the creative input, and I take back my comment on ugly control cavities after seeing that last guitar posted. I am waiting on finishing a guitar I am working on until I figure this one out. I know it can be done! I like the idea of countersunk screws which are angled into the body.

With deep enough holes a long drill bit may work. something like this.....

granted I am just proposing this idea. It may not work...

I meant more of a like a small plug that would easily hide the pot (it would have to be a mini one). It would not be a pickguard. It would look exactly like it would with a rear rout. And yes, I think many would agree that electronics cavities are ugly.

Has anyone ever thought of getting rid of the ugly rear and front electronics cavities? Possibly a small recess for each pot, and then a tiny wood plate over it? Small channels could then be drilled to connect the other pockets (i.e. jack, pickups, trem, etc).

Does anyone know a good source for downcut inlay router bits besides Stewmac?

Close!.... I need it without the switch... I guess this is closely related to the "Anyone ever use..." post. I agree with tone knobs being useless.

Does anyone have a schematic for this configuration? 2 humbuckers, and 2 independant volume knobs, no tone.

Just a thought... how about a flametop-s guitar with a replacement neck from stewmac. Prices are very low and I'm sure the product is great. You are talking about new hardware anyway.

Fryovanni, I believe we may be talking about the same thing. Correct me if I am wrong... Only the geometry of the instrument will determine the vibration pattern. Assuming all other properties (density, etc) are constant throuhout the instrument, these will only affect amplitude. This being said, a node is a point on that pattern where the amplitude is zero. Holding the guitar as you do at a node, and tapping on a non-node location will yield a tone. As you tap closer to a point on that pattern where the amplitude is maximum, the louder the tone will be. This is a way to determine nodes and areas of high amplitude. What I was doing was holding the guitar at a point far from where I want to test, (i.e. the headstock), and tapping around the body. Here you can find the nodes in slightly the same manner. The dead areas are the nodes. Granted, holding the guitar in any place will change the pattern, but the headstock should be far enough away for all practical purposes. What I was curious about, was since my guitar looks similar to a fender, and I had noticeable nodes at the bridge area, is this something that is also unique to most solidbodies?...

this may be an advanced question... but when you hold a solidbody guitar at the headstock, and carefully tap the body, you can make out several noticeable nodes. From a sustain standpoint, do you want the bridge at a node, or at a excitation point? My guitar has a distinct node at the location of the bridge. Due to it's somehat common shape I am assuming this may be true for most other conventional solid bodies....