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Everything posted by Unrealize

  1. What guitar tuner would you suggest? I'm thinking from a workshop point of view, not a player point of view. I'm looking to get a good tuner to have at my workstation when I'm finishing up my work, not some clip-on type thing.. :D Thanks!
  2. Not the best pictures unfortunately, but, better than nothing I guess? I'm very happy to say that the new truss rod slid in place far easier than I expected. Needed a little bit of persuasion on the final like inch or so, but in general it was piece of cake, and I'm totally happy with that!
  3. I got it out! I removed the 'center' part of the shelf that the lock nut sits on so I could get a bit closer to the truss rod. Then I drilled a small hole in the top 'beam' thingy, and screwed a wood screw in there. Then I could grip the screw with a pliers and used a small hammer to carefully move the rod out of the hole. When it butted up against the end lip of the cavity I cut away the brass block. Then I could unscrew the top 'beam' from the back brass block and remove it easily, and the bottom one and the brass block came out relatively easily as well. Not something I want to do again, but.. it's doable. I'm going to have to do a little bit of paint touch up on the headstock, but it's gonna be a breeze compared to what I would have to do if I had removed the fretboard... Now, I need to insert a new one back in the slot.....
  4. Thanks! It's indeed a dual action rod. Flat bottom channel, there should be no glue on the rod (unless I was very unlucky when gluing it up, but hey, clearly I'm not a lucky person. Thanks again for the input, I'm going to see if anyone else will chime in before I decide on what I'm going to do. I appreciate the info about heating and prying off the fretboard!
  5. I'm in a bit of a predicament. The nut of my truss rod broke. I was adjusting it and figured that I had to be going the wrong way, loosened the nut (it seemed to me to loosen just fine), and as I was about to tighten it the other way, the nut broke off. YAAAY!! Anyway, see the pictures. I have a neck that's painted up to the sides of the fretboard, so I need to get the rod out without taking the fretboard off. Does anyone have a clever trick for me? I have been able to reach the rod with a pair of ground down needle nose pliers, but I'm not able to fully grasp and pull on it. I've been thinking about possibly drilling a small hole in the bottom screw on the truss rod, and perhaps be able to jam a screw in that hole and pull it out that way, but I want to hear another couple of options before I go and do something stupid.. Thanks, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
  6. Thanks Scott. It's a 2k clear. (I had a car painter friend help me out with the finish). I have some 2k clear at home, and I was thinking that I could keep using that exacto and cut off the piece of the clear that I cut open, and then drop fill it with the 2k clear.. It's between the floyd and the humbucker, and it's not like super visible, so I'm hoping that will do the trick..
  7. Exactly what happened. Exacto in my hand, and... Well, I cut a deep'ish gash into my finish. I also later made another careless mistake. I'm beyond frustrated at myself, but, hey, they are there, and I have to deal with them. So, anyone have any input on how I should go about fixing these mistakes? I have some ideas, but it would be great to hear what the experts have to say! First picture is where I cut it with the exacto. Second picture is a small nick from a drill bit. Thank you so much!
  8. I'm building a guitar with a painted neck, and I'm worried about the transition between the neck and fretboard. I've done it (read: failed at it) a couple times before and had a fairly substantial ridge running along the neck where the masking tape was. This time I'm thinking about doing the base color, and throw on one coat of clear, and then remove the masking, gently sand the ridge, then mask only the front face of the fretboard and then clear the neck. Does anyone have any input on this? How do the 'pro's' do it? Any input would be much appreciated!
  9. Hey. I bought a couple 81c's to have have around in need when budget wasn't that kind to me. I never received any wiring diagram or their 'basic wiring instructions' so I have nothing but a guess as to what the wires from the pup are. I made a picture and I was hoping that some kind soul could confirm for me if I'm on the right track here, or help me out if I'm totally at a loss. Thank you!
  10. Hi.. I'm wondering how to takle this. When I'm lacquering a neck, I mask off the fretboard and when I'm done, peel the tape off, and the lacquer has left a ridge along the fretboard because of it's thickness. How do you guys tackle that? Do you spray the entire side of the fretboard? If that's the case, how do you then do the side dot markers? I've been considering leaving some side dot material sticking out, and then spray primer and color, and then cut the side dots down, sand them flush with the fretboard and clear.. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.
  11. Looking forward to checking this one out. Love the body shape, not too keen on the headstock, but that's just my personal preference.. Good luck with it!
  12. I'll have a go at your suggestion tomorrow, getting close to modnight here now. I'm a bit surprised that I have problems witht tho, the pot was working fine 'last round' when I had problems with the Jack output, which is working fine now it seems. I don't have a working multimeter at the moment, but I'm planning to get one asap..
  13. Been hooking this up now, and still some stuff puzzles me. I have switched tip and ring connections, so the Jack output seems to be working just fine now. The volume however does not work.. There is a difference between say '10' and '6'. Volume is louder at '10' but from '6' and down nothing happens.. meaning that the volume pot doesn't cut the volume fully. I have no idea why this happens, it seems to me that my solders are pretty okay. I'm far from good with the soldering iron, but totally crappy I'm not.. Curtisa, thank you very very much for your advice!! Any input again would be greatly appreciated!!
  14. I still have some problems with this. I had a look at one of my Jacksons, the RR24 has the exact same setup as I need. Unfortunately I was not able to look at the jack output, cause it seemed that the wires were short and I didn't wanna put too much force pulling it out. I made this drawing tho from how I could understand what was going on. Mainly I would like some confirmation that I'm correct here. Specially on the jack output.. Thanks!!
  15. Hey! Been a very long time since I have been posting anything here. Some years ago I did a few guitars, but I had to move to another house that was in pretty bad condition. Finally a little while ago I got my basement set up so that I could finally get back to building guitars again, and now I'm kinda in the finishing phase of the first one... But I have some trouble... I have been using this wire diagram, but I'm using an EMG-81 instead of Seymore Duncan. The older kind of EMG without the 'plug', just red wire and a white one with braiding. This is what I'm left with: I have a stereo output Jack. When I push the Jack in all the way I have no sound. When it's just 'half way' (that is, to the first point where the jack get 'stuck') I have sound. The volume potmeter doesn't work. I'm not good with electronics unfortunately. I have followed this schematic, but with tiny alterations. What I did was solder the braided wire of the white wire from the EMG to the ground of the potmeter. There is no ground coming from the bridge. (since it is and EMG hb I didn't think that I would need that) The volume potmeter could be faulty, I can't find any other reason why it shouldn't work, it's soldered ok I think and the wires are in the correct places. (at least according to this schematic). Any input would be greatly appreciated.. I hope to use this guitar at a gig in a couple weeks and I'm getting a lil desperate.. cheers, and happy new year to you all, and DAAAANG it feels good to be building again, even with problems..
  16. Where did all the pics go??? I miss this guitar!!
  17. Seems to work fine in Opera. However I tried to add a vote, the first time I ever did so, and I got a pop up saying I had used my quota of votes.. :|
  18. Neck angle depends on what kinda bridge you are thinking of. TOM needs neck angle unless you recess it, same goes for Floyd Rose..
  19. That inlay is in the perfect spot I think! Looks totally awesome! Congratz!
  20. Make a mask from cardboard or something similar, that will give you a uniform width on the frets. However, I would also think that if you paint it, it will be subject to wear and tear and will probably quickly disappear, I second MexicanBreed here, cut the slots and fill them..
  21. I have to say that one of my biggest influences through the years has been Mr. Hetfield. Him and the Slayer duo has made a huge impact on me, as well as Adrian Smith and babyface from Iron Maiden. More recently I try not to let people influence me, and instead let me be the influence.. Highly unsucsessful tho.. lol
  22. I've been using Superior and Superior 2.0 for years now. With Cubase tho, but from what I remember S.2.0 should be perfectly fine to use in Fruityloops just as you are used to, cause after all it is only a VST, and Fruity supports VST, should be a breeze...
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