berggeetars

I see you your post written in german, and I raise you one confused expression.

I'm really liking the look of the rosewood neck. How difficult is it to work with that stuff? Seems like doing a neck contour could be kind of a hassle with how hard rosewood is, but I suppose i've never tried rosewood for anything other than fretboards.

The telecaster is pretty much complete. Just need to finish the cavity covers and truss rod cover. Feel free to share your opinion on it. Grass shot In the case Hope you all like it. I sure do . Played it all day Wednesday, and most of the day Thursday.

Well I'm no expert by any means, but if I were to do it, this is how I would go about it. I'd get a few more opinions on it though just to be safe. Any questions just ask

Preparing to wire up the new Tele I just built. Specs are 2 emg select humbuckers, 1 volume, 2 mini switches (1 per humbucker) to split the humbuckers into single coils, and one kill switch. Below is the diagram that I have drawn up. I'm not the greatest at wiring, and I'm even worse at making understandable schematics, so if you have trouble reading it let me know. Just wondering if this setup will work. Thanks for your help.

Thanks for all the comments. As to the control spacing, they are so close together because 2 of the 3 holes are for mini switches to switch from single coil to humbucker. They don't take up much space. Here are a few pics now that I have finished with the clear. I'm really pleased with the finish already, aside from all the little dust specks that taunt me so. I thought this one was pretty good The best neck profile picture I have And one of the front

It's actually a two piece alder body. Nothing real special, I just wanted to see what woods people might mistake it for. Just today I've finished spraying it with clear. I'll leave it hang for about 2 weeks and see if I can't post some pictures of it assembled.

So far the wood remains a mystery

Just thought I'd show a little of what I've been working on. It's a tele shaped body, with the only difference being on one of the horns. It is slightly less round than the classic telecaster. The neck is constructed of 3 pieces of red oak. Indian rosewood fretboard. Mini fretmarkers. Zebrawood headplate. And jade (yeah right) keystone tuners. I want to see if anyone can decipher what the body is made out of from the pics. I'm not very talented at looking at wood and knowing its kind, and I want to see how obvious it is with this guitar. So if you have a guess feel free to share it. Enough chat though, on to the pics. headstock side front neck and guitar pups, cavity covers, tuner Let me know what you think

Well thanks to everyone. Went with superglue, and am now happy to say that my nut is right where it should be. I figured that title would spark some interest.

So the latest neck I'm working on is nearing completion. Just wondering if it would be wise to attach the nut to the neck with superglue. Any reason to believe it wouldnt be strong enough? Anyone ever tried this? Specs are: 3 piece red oak neck, indian rosewood fretboard, zebrawood head plate.

I've made a few necks, and I'm sure the way I go about it would make some of you cringe. I actually start out using a good sharp knife to get close to the desired shape. Certainly not an act for the squeamish, but with practice I have found it to be a very adequate way to rough shape a neck. After getting it close to the desired shape, I take it even closer with a rasp, and then finish up with progressively finer grits of sandpaper. Three necks and it's never let me down.

Sounds interesting. I always envy people who can speak more than one language, but don't have the patience to learn another myself. How do you say hello in Icelandic?

Man...I will definately be watching this. Sounds interesting.

This is me first time entering GOTM, and I have no intention of winning. I just figured it would be better to enter, than not to. This is my first guitar built from scratch. Headstock Specs: Body: 3 piece alder Scale: 24" Neck: Maple Fretboard: Rosewood with small dot inlays Electronics: 2 humbuckers; 1 tone; 1 volume; 3 way, mustang style, switch Bridge: Lp Junior Finnish: Krylon Purple with rattlecan poly clear Uh...nothing too fancy I suppose, but i'm in love with it.

Just a pic of a recenty made guitar

I am by no means an expert, so I asked customer support at MusiciansFriend to find an answer. I was told that F spacing is for fender instruments or FLOYD ROSE TREMOLOS (what you are using?). Regular spacing is for instruments that are not in those categories.

I am by no means a finishing expert, but I have recently done some experimenting with coloring some of the maple necks I am working on. The best way that worked for me, was as follows. Sand the neck as smooth as desired (I tend to like my necks smooth as glass). The next step I take is to apply Minwax Wood Sheen (This is how I get the maple to the color I desire. I have found that it does not get splotchy like other wipe on finishes tend to when used on hard maple, though I would recommend you test on scrap first). Follow the instructions on the bottle for application, and reapply as needed to get the color you want. The next step is negotiable. To give the neck a little more durability, I spray Minwax Polyurethane over the oil. [b]Make sure the polyurethane you use is the oil based, and not the waterbased. The polyurethane over the oil is not necessary, but if you do not do it, you will eventually need to recoat with oil. Im sure there are numerous other ways to color maple necks, but this is the one that I have found to yield the best results for me. Being that I am new to finishing, I strongly encourage you to test this method before applying it. Hope that helps

I have read all of your input, and I thank you all for your ideas. I will not be able to drill out the screws directly because there is a veneer on the headstock, and drilling in this way would cause the screws to go through the veneer (if that makes sense?). The approach I believe I will try is to drill a hole next to the broken screws (that will not be seen as it will be covered by the tuners), then I will remove the broken screws. Then it will be a matter of filling these holes and redrilling them. I see no reason why this should not work, and I thank you all again for your help.

Unfortunately, no. I know that it would have been beneficial to have done so, but I did not have the right size drill bit, so in my impatience I decided to screw them in without pre-drilling. Guess next time I'll take the time to do it right.

I was thinking of doing something similar to this. Just wondering if anyone has another approach to it. Thanks for the quick reply, and if anyone else has a solution I'm open for suggestions

First, I'd like to introduce myself to the forum. I have been viewing this treasure trove and making use of it's information for a few months now, and have found it very useful in my building and refinishing attempts. It is refreshing to hear from people who share the same passion that I do. So here's the problem Just recently I did a test fit of all the parts on the guitar I am currently building. Everything worked out wonderfully, and the guitar sounds great (even without the electronics). Unfortunately, upon removing the parts, I ran into a problem with the tuners. It seems that as I was removing them, the shafts of two screws broke off in the neck. This means that I cannot re-attach the tuners using the same holes. I wonder if any of you have had this experience, and if anyone has any ideas as to how I could remedy this. Sorry if this explanation was not adequate. Upon request I could post visual aid to help the forum understand. Thanks for your help