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copperhead

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Everything posted by copperhead

  1. I'm refinishing a les paul that has been previously finished with wipe on poly ,It's sanded back to the wood now So do I need to use grain filler even though the pores were previously filled ? thanks........................ awaiting a responce
  2. it will take a decade . its more of a clear transparent than poly i built several guitars in the last 2 years a couple necks nitro finish & 2 with poly the 2 poly necks are naturally yellower than the nitro neck & after 2 years the nitro is not changed
  3. after all that your addicted I'm going to PWA 3 times a week "PICKUP WINDERS ANONYMOUS"
  4. The answer to that is pretty sad really, when you divide the dollars by hours.... In this case though, its not about time or dollars. Its just about having an idea, and trying it out to see if it works. Hell, I hardly ever use rasps anyway. I use chisels and palm gouges where most would use a rasp. On the other hand those Shinto rasps are pretty sweet. I'm pretty sure I'll have one before long....for those times I do use them . SR when you get it done post some pics thats a great ideal
  5. Sorry if I sounded like I tried to lecture you, that was not my intention. I have a tendency to not being able to stop myself sometimes... you are a real asset here SwedishLuthier i love building guitars but this year im too busy building pickups , any time you can put me in my place haha cheers man
  6. No, there are several versions, including some for the cheaper Fender or Squire models, that have a molded plastic bobbin, pretty much like a HB bobbin, but of cause differently shaped. Can't find a good pic of one right now... The thing with those pickups are that the plastic surrounding the magnets add to the thickness of the pickup, altering the sound. If thats a good or bad thing, wel I leave that up to you. With this type of bobbins it is possible to push a magnet up or down for sure. Please make sure that you have a plastic bobbin before attempting to push the magnet up or down. Look for the mold line across the top of the bobbin. However these cheep pickups are often not equipped with magnet pole pieces. They have steel poles and a ceramic bar magnet underneath. And then its not possible to push the magnets up or down. On the other hand it is much easier to push a steel rod out and grind it ti the desired length. But in the end a Texas Special is not made with a plastic bobbin. Its a bit tricky. Copy the "direct link" that is visible directly beneath the specific picture in the album mode (or whatever that is called) from Photobucket and paste that into the pop up, erasing the "HTTP//" thingy that is present when the pop up appears. heres a a ling to ebay its a US tele just look at the 2 pictures http://cgi.ebay.com/Telecaster-American-Br...=item415150a1b0 a couple years ago i built some strat pickups with stew mac flatwork and magnets the old vintage the magnets which they have a odd size & the 4 inner magnets were a little loose i did not superglue them in the assembly of the bobbin & you could move the magnets up or down without causing a short , i dont recemed trying this anytime sorry if i sounded like a nooby ...."i dont think all tele pickups have a metal baseplate" im not new to pickup winding
  7. sorry i didnt read down far enough texas specials got it
  8. i dont think all tele pickups have a metal baseplate this is a pic of a US standard tele pickup which which has a plastic bobbin & no baseplate . i cant add a picture this wont allow a link from photobucket
  9. try an alnico 8 you will get a brightar sound but not loose ay bass or a a4 http://stores.ebay.com/Addiction-FX-Guitar-and-Sound dennis is a great guy to deal with
  10. i have heard both have been mismatched i would overwind the screw side as the slug side it more magnetic .i know some boutique winders that mismatch as much as 300 turns
  11. there is no one place to get perfect humbucker parts. stewmac parts are a little costly but you can make a ok sounding humbucker from there kit . now mojo sells kits aswell .stew mac screws sound pretty good ,and there keepers are ok . mojo has more variety and cheaper as for wire poly & plain enamel do have allot of similarities in sound i have made some great sounding pickups and i will continue to use poly . plain enamel is double the price as well if your new to winding i would not be messing with PE wire practice with solderon poly wire
  12. rosewood body would be very costly i heard those rosewood teles are very bright sounding . but we need to know what kind of music do you play ,what kind of a guitar you want to build .there is allot of good sounding wood thats pretty cheap. i would try any of the softer hardwoods poplar, alder,basswood ,mahogany ,,,,,,,.....swamp-ash or any local wood
  13. you could use bondo or wood filler i have used both with no problems
  14. use a steam iron ,steam both sides and keep steaming after a while it will become flexable you should be able to push it flat the clamp it between two straight boards or on a table or something
  15. what i did was find the center or your template,mark it then from one end to the other with a sharpie or something you think stewmac would have this already done ,then do the same with your fingerboard ,now with your miter box setup and screwed to you bench put your template in ,in the first notch put your saw in place it will be your start where your like all guitars with angled headstock ,the end of your fingerboard will go rite up tight to your saw align the drawn lines on you fingerboard with the one on your template with 2way tape stick the template to you board the lines a for the taper in most fingerboards maybe you know all this ,if its a strat or tele style with a small nut your starting point will be back about 3/8" from the end
  16. those lee valley blues are very nice i really liked the peacock blue also you might try these guys http://www.woodessence.com/pigmentsdefault.html
  17. There are a couple of unidentified variables which will change that list. Which wood is the body made from? Is it an open grained wood or closed? If it's a closed grain wood, yo don't need to fill. Is the filler stain-able? If so, you won't need to color the filler at all. Once the grain is filled, the only purpose I can see for sanding sealer is to prevent the finish from bleeding out the dye. If you use aniline dyes, I don't believe this will be an issue, but I'm not positive. Dye a piece of scrap but don't seal it. Test the finish on it. If the dye doesn't bleed out, you've saved a step. If you DO use it, be extremely careful when sanding it smooth NOT TO SAND THROUGH. You could easily go through the dye as well. You can't seal the wood first before applying the dye to avoid the risk, either. If it's sealed, the dye can't penetrate into the wood. You're a LOT better off in this case if you don't have to use the sanding sealer. Any and every film finish (which lacquer is) penetrates into and seals the wood great with the first coat. Alternately, you can use sealer to fill the grain. Many of us have done this with great success. With a dyed top, this could be a risky proposition, as I described above, but it COULD be done. You'd simply apply coat after coat, sanding between coats, until the grain is all filed up. I've done this a few times and it works great. Again though - if you use grain filler and the finish doesn't bleed the dye, you don't need to use the sanding sealer. Just to throw a wrench in the gears... you can use shellac as a sealer. It will seal the wood great and it doesn't have the occasional adhesion problem with finishes that sanding sealer can have. The only problem is that it doesn't sand well. Now take some pics and show us what you're working on! well sanding sealer gives you that nice first coat really its the same of many coats of lacquer but its very easy to sand its thick it kinda fills in imperfections as for grain filler it can be colored with any oilbased stain i never tryed to color it with waterbased stain or dye, i dont think it would be compatable i colored some for a guitar body with minwax ebony black stain it turned out ok dye or stain(waterbased) this is not as easy as it seems i would wet the wood before applying dye especially the edges endgrain washcoat 1 to 2 coats of lacquer over the dye if your applying grain filler for open grain wood it will be here after the washcoat sanding sealer 2 to 3 coats i usually brush it on with a foam brush sand off most if it will be sanded off anyway then you lacquer
  18. nice find, but just one thing to worry about some dye's do fade .i use these http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...190&p=42996 or this http://www.woodessence.com/dyesdefault.html
  19. not all sanding sealer is compatable with nitro lacquer the benjamin moore is ,look for vinyl toluene in the ingredients i would use watco lacquer,benjamin moore sanding sealer ,and the benjamin moore grain filler thats all i use always had great results
  20. filler if your using open grain woods i usually go analine dye (waterbased) first, then a light coat of lacquer sometimes called a wash coat to seal in the color, then grain filler here in canada which you can get at any store that sells benjamin moore products then sanding sealer which benjamin moore also carries, i use couple of coats of that is works very well sands very easy then watco lacquer . which i use as well with great results
  21. birch as been called "poor man's maple" i think is alot like maple its not quite so hard its good for necks ,acoustic bodies whatever....give er
  22. im talking about about 18" away from a heat lamp not to hot same as a nice hot day not a kiln
  23. anybody ever use a heatlamp to speed up curing time on a nitro finish ...after all coats are applied or even between coats
  24. i just started applying waterbase analine die on a ash tele body i just made i have some nitrolacquer which i was planning on using but the only local grain filler i could fine was benjamin moore and i think its for poly not lacquer so what can i use instead of grain filler to fill the pores shellac maybe or maybe i should use a poly finnish
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