lancesworld

The pickup configuration I plan on putting in my current build is H-H ( Two regular sized Humbuckers) but I am still undecided as to which switch to use. I really do prefer a blade style as opposed to the Les Paul toggle. I understand that I can use a telecaster 3-way switch but I have a several 5-way switches sitting around the house. Here is my question; is the Schaller Megaswitch Model E significantly different in its switching options as opposed to the standard Fender 5-way switch? More specifically, in a two humbucker configuration can I get the same switching capabilities on the Fender Switch without additional switches ( or push/pull pots)?

Not in order: 1. Michael Shenker 2. Ed Van Halen 3. George Lynch 4. Albert King 5. Warren Haynes 6. Al Dimeola 7. The Edge 8. Chet Atkins 9. John Sykes 10. Prince

I am trying to decide what I want my fretboard to be. I have already decided that it is going to be a 25" inch scale. The neck is a through-neck limba/purpleheart/limba laminate. My choices at this point are zebrawood, pau ferro, maple, or purpleheart. Though I admit these choices are from a purely cosmetic position. Any suggestions which would better suit the proposed instrument would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks-you for the encouragement. You have all been very very helpful, which seems to be rare on these type of boards. Too often, I have found a provincial attitude that runs off eager novices. I haven't found that to be true here and I am very grateful. Learning this craft is something I really want to do and entered the doors knowing it is a lifelong learning process. I bought the Melvyn Hiscock book yesterday and did my first read through last night. It was very helpful and filled in a lot of the blanks that were in the other books. Additionally, I bought a blueprint for an explorer. I am going to rework some of the things on it though. Primarily, I want a through-neck in a 25" scale not the 24.75. Additionally, I am going to have to change the control cavity layout so that it will be able to accomodate the pot arrangement and megaswitch. I managed to get the neck blank made out and cut already!!! I got the information to do it right here in this forum.

I understand the concept and the math involved but I need to be completely clear on the application. I don't believe asking a lot of questions is a bad thing. In my line of work, you may ask the same question ten ways to clarify. Also in my line of work, I wish my clients would have asked me the questions first before they got into too deep. One client comes to mind in particular. Had he asked for my help early instead of working from a mistaken belief, he would not be sitting in a Federal prison for the next 33 months.

I will have to pick that one up

Yes I plan to use a 12 degree joint?

I got into this after my wife told me that I needed a hobby. So I went to Borders and started buying books on different hobbies and tried them. None of them really interested me until I read the book by Tom Hirst. I followed some of his directions outlined in the book but, I didn't really want to build a bolt-on neck. So, I digressed enough from his plan to make a mess; build #1, six years ago. Build #2: I tried to use Dennis Waring's book as a guide. This time I tried to do a through-neck. I actually got the guitar finished. The action was too low (probably because I used a hardtail bridge instead of t-o-m), body was too thin, and it looked hideous. Additionally, only one pick-up worked. That was four years ago. All of this coupled with the fact that I was learning how to use a bandsaw and other tools I had no experience with. Learning to set up a bandsaw was tough for me. I still don't really know how to sharpen my tools.....though I'm learning. I hope..... Anyway, I have learned that the books and plans haven't gotten me to where I would like to be. So I'm now going to add to my knowledge through the experience of others.

I am curious....after viewing your pictures. Did you recess the neck behind the fretboard (that is between fretboard and bridge)? It then looks like you then angled the neck from the top. I really can't tell but it looks like a better option for me at this point. Based on my drawing, my neck blank is not going to be thick enough using the method that has been discussed here. I am making an explorish neck through. My neck blank is 2" thick by 3" wide and 46" long. When I use the diagram used above, my measurements for the body portion of the explorer wings falls below the end of the blank. If what I'm seeing in the pictures you have posted is what I think; this may be a better way to go for me. Draw your neck/body angle, THEN draw in the 2" thickness to match the body line. EG: you'll be cutting the NECK at an angle, not the body. See my other pinned thread on how to cut the angle, for an example. I need to make sure that we are on the same page. I used the drawing you had posted in your thread. After drawing the fretboard, frets, nut, bridge location/height and desired string clearance; The bottom of the bridge height is where the body is supposed to be. I drew and angle from the bottom of the fretboard to the bottom of the bridge. I then took a ruler and extended the line back and down another 12" inches behind the bridge location. After that, I measured a 1/4" down from the angling line and drew in my top. Then I measured down another 1 1/2" to where the bottom of the back will be. Cut out the paper pattern and putting it against my blank's side. The angled portion fits but falls off the bottom portion of the blank; about six inches from the end of the blank. Another words, my blanks thickness would have to be closer to 4" instead of 2". My understanding of what you are suggesting is that I reverse the direction of what I have drawing; because the thickness of the neck portion will be later be made narrower? Or are you saying use my existing drawing and twist it on the wood so that the neck/fretboard portion of the drawing is angling toward what would be the headstock?

As a licensed attorney; I strongly suggest getting an attorney. Not just any attorney can help you with intellectual property issues. For instance an attorney has to also be a member of the Patent Bar to practice in the Patent Courts.

I am curious....after viewing your pictures. Did you recess the neck behind the fretboard (that is between fretboard and bridge)? It then looks like you then angled the neck from the top. I really can't tell but it looks like a better option for me at this point. Based on my drawing, my neck blank is not going to be thick enough using the method that has been discussed here. I am making an explorish neck through. My neck blank is 2" thick by 3" wide and 46" long. When I use the diagram used above, my measurements for the body portion of the explorer wings falls below the end of the blank. If what I'm seeing in the pictures you have posted is what I think; this may be a better way to go for me.

Hi, I am Lance and new to forum. Hopefully, I will be able to meet people who will help me build successful guitars. After six unsuccesful attempts, I have decided that I really need the wisdom of those that have built successful guitars. The problems I have in my builds are legion. Though I keep telling myself I am getting better.

Thank-you everyone. I will be moving forward with a single truss rod. You have all been very helpful and the help is greatly appreciated.

I had laminated two pieces of lacewood to a purpleheart center with the intention of making a through-body neck for for a five string bass (34" scale). The current dimensions of the laminated neck blank are as follows; Purpleheart center (1" wide x 48" length X 1 1/16 thick), lacewood outer pieces (1 1/4" wide x 48" length x 1 1/16th thick). Basically I have three questions; first, is this configuration going to work as to string tension on the neck with one truss rod and no other stiffening agent? Second question, if I do go with two truss rods how far apart from each other do they need to be to work properly? My third and final question, should I just shave off 1/2" of width from the lacewood outers and laminate purpleheart on to either side to make this strong enough?