punkrawkguy

Same problem here, cold and rainy. I used Woodburst tinted tung oil from woodburst.com. It's perfectly safe to use inside, barely has a smell. I used the Bing Cherry color for a Gibson Cherry color and used some Clear for the neck. Lacquer takes a while to fully cure and quit stinking, however Poly dries in a day and doesn't stink afterward. The Minwax Poly in a can would work if you can spray outside on a sunny afternoon and then bring it inside and put in an unused room. Use good ventilation and don't breath them fumes!

This is wierd.... I used some Minwax spray polyurethane lite gloss on my maple headstock of my current project. A couple coats sprayed outside in 60-degree weather and left inside over night dried to a beautiful glossy finish, looks like Fender vintage amber neck color. BUT! It's very hard to polish or remove, very hard to remove! I decided to do the body with Deft spray-can lacquer and it's great. A few good coats outside and it left and thin, but glossy finish that's very smooth, much smoother than the plasticy Poly finish. It dried overnight, but it took a week for the body to quit smelling like lacquer. The Poly is really tought stuff and might be great for headstocks. I'm also going to use the Poly inside my control cavity, because the top-wood is only about 1/4 of an inch thick and I want to add as much mass to the inside of the cavity as possible.

I've played the DG set's EMG's in an American Strat though a Marshall before and yes, it can do metal. Boost those mids, crank the volume, and up the gain and it'll grind. Great clean tones to, very versatile.

That's what I'm using on my Carvin (same) neck thru blank, a gold Gotoh nashville t-o-m with flatblade-adjustable screws on the top. I'm recessing the bridge, because without it, the bridge makes the action a little too high. My strings go through the body about 2 1/2" behind the bridge and I have no problem with a steep angle to the bridge. Hopefully I'll have it ready this week and can elaborate more.

Yeah, $15 total for a slab of Honduras Mahogany, about 1 3/4" thick, 10"x17", cut the wings out (with one wing flipped to maximize the amount of space on the wood) and have clamped and glued them to my Carvin neck-thru black, and sanded it all down to a smooth finish. The tone is great, extremely resonant. Wood is wood and ebay is a great place to grab some wood inexpensively.

Check out this neck-thru Strat with a Carvin neck: http://www.reesley.com/guitar.html

$100, that's CRAZY! I got a slab of Honduras Mahogany off of ebay for $8+$7 shipping, so that's $15 total for 1 3/4 inch thick lumber. Buy two slabs for a wider body, that's still only $30 total.

I'll put the sound of my big 'ol Deep-Bowl USA Balladeer up against any under-$1000 accoustic for unplugged tone and volume. Honestly, I've played Taylors, Guilds, Martins, imports, and a CA and the deep-bowl, roundback Balladeer is the LOUDEST acoustic you will find. Mine is certainly not "tinny", it's got a solid Spruce top and a 2-piece mahogany neck with a rosewood fretboard and the tone is fat and bassy. Hit a power chord and that guitar will rumble your belly for 10 or 15 seconds. Ovations, in general, aren't as dull and muddy sounding as mass-market acoustics are. They're clearer, crisper, and brighter. In my book, that's a good thing. Mine is 12 years old and has no laquer cracks, warping, seperating top or anything else wrong with it. It rarely needs tuning. Honestly, I refuse to buy any acoustic other than an Ovation (preferably a deep-bowl). I'd like to own an old ebony-board Legend, because they've got a little extra clarity and sparkle that the rosewood ones lack. The Composite Accoustic (CA) guitars are quite nice and comparable with Rainsong. They loud and clear sounding, are very well built, play great, and sound better than most wooden accoustics.

This probably sounds stupid, but the simplest way would be just hollowing out the back and glueing a new "back" on.

Cherry is great wood for guitars. A friend of mine has set-neck Cherry guitar and it's very bright and crunchy. Very unique sounding.

Man, nobody likes my Epoxy idea. Well, I've got a fresh bottle of the Titebond I stuff, so hopefully tommorrow night I'll glue it. I'm using dowel rods drilled through the neck and into each side of the body wings . The wings fit snugly enough to wave the guitar around or carry it by the "horns". So it should be a rock-solid joint when I glue it. I will supply the pictures to. It's natural maple neck-thru with cherry-finished mahogany wings in a PRS shape with the PRS headstock, with a gold tunomatic, strings through the body, direct-mounted double-cream Seymour Duncan Custom bridge and The Mag neck humbuckers, that and gold Grovers. Looks like something of a mix between a Warrior and a PRS. PRG

Thanks guys, However, wouldn't a thinner adhesive like epoxy transmit sound better than gummy, plasticy wood glue?

I'm building a PRS-shaped guitar using the Carvin neck-thru blank, which is maple. My body wings are mahogany. I want all the tone and sustain that I can get and I don't plan to have to ever "remove" the wings. So does how do epoxy or titebond compare acoustically and adhesively? thanks