mickc
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Everything posted by mickc
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Yes, plenty of pocket left, and i can compensate for the taper by adjusting the bridge height, so I think this may just be the way to go...
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Hi Guys How do you usually run the ground wire to a tune-o-matic bridge? None of my bridge ot tailpiece posts are directly above the electronics cavity, so i can do it that way....
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Hi Guys, I did my first angled brigde setup on an archtop i am building, Les Paul style. I measured the scale length, 24 3/4" and marked it but when i set the bridge postition, for some reason instead of moving the bass post back i moved the top E post forward! I was going off a picture in Martin Koch's book, which shows it this way. The stupid thing is i didnt realize it was wrong until after i had painted the body! - (brain fade) So basically now i have a bridge at the right angle, but about 1/4" too far forward. I dont want to risk filling\redrilling\touchup of the body, but what if i move the neck forward in the pocket by 1/4" and insert a painted filler piece between it and the end of the pocket? Any problems in doing this?
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Yeah, i will probably look at that for next time, but for now i just need to know if polishing now, and polishing again later will cause any damage to the finish (apart from taking more clearcoat off in the sanding process..)
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Hi Guys, I have finished several bodies in a rattlecan acrylic clear, over metalic black and another over "sunset blaze" optical FX paint. I know the usual dying time is at least a few weeks,but can i sand and buff it after a week or so and then do it again after a couple of months if it sinks back more? I did a full size arcade machine in the same finish (but with a gun) and buffed it out the next day, but after a month or so it sank back to how it looks now straight off the cans. Its just that there is a wood show on in town in a couple of weeks, and i'd love for them to be in it, even if i have to strip them and resand \ buff them after a while. Its a pride thing!!
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I have bought a few, from several sellers, and most seem to come from "Sung Il" do a google for them and look at their site... The gear is quite good, but obviously you get what you pay for. It all seems to be good quality, and while not exactly show quality, it would be as good, if not better that the gear you'd get on most mass produced big name guitars
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I talked to the guy at the local muso store, and we came up with the idea of using a set of banjo tuners in between the existing tuners.
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Has anyone else tried these? http://www.guitarheads.net/main%20pages/products/pickups.htmhttp://www.guitarheads.net/main%20pages/products/pickups.htm' target="_blank"> I have ordered a set and will let you know how they sound,
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Hi guys, Has anyone found a wood filler that doesnt shrink back after a while? I used water based wood fillers before, but after a few months the repair shows up under the paint as a slight depression where the filler has shrunk. Any good ones around? i was thinking of auto body filler - bondo style, but wasnt sure if it would stick to the wood too well...
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Yeah, I though as much.... i can almost fit the tuners i have 6 a side, as long as i dont want to turn them!!, i will look for smaller tuners Thanks
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Hi Guys, I have a standard 6 string Les Paul neck, and want to convert it to a 12 string. I know i have to extend the headstock and fill in the existing tuner holes first. I think to fill the tuner holes i will use mahogany dowels (the neck is mahogany also) and sand flat, but im not sure how to exteNd the headstock. I was thinking of cutting the last inch or so off the headstock and glueing a fill in piece in between, but would that be strong enough?