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curtisa

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About curtisa

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  1. 18mm thickness isn't an issue. Just make the neck pocket a little shallower to compensate. A standard (if there is such a thing) neck blank thickness is 19mm. Your bigger issue will be the width of the blanks. 58mm won't be wide enough to create the headstocks unless you glue extra pieces either side to make up the required width. The other alternative is to buy some separate pieces wide enough for making headstocks with and just use your blanks solely for the neck portion below the scarf joint.
  2. No picture attached to your post. I think most advice you'll see regarding nut slotting is largely identical - that the slots should be deep enough to keep the string captive, that the slot should be shaped such that it minimises any pinching of the string, and that the slot should have a degree of backwards angle or tapering to minimise any sharp angles as the string changes trajectory from the fret board to the tuners. Erlewine's and Frudua's advice will differ only in their preference for fine tuning. I would point out that the Frudua video is demonstrating some pretty a
  3. Small Bear Electronics would have most, if not all of those. Look up the 16mm Alpha potentiometer range. 250K blend pot with centre detent is a bit unusual. Stewmac sell a 250K Alpha blend pot but there's no indication that it has the centre detent. Mind you, if you're building an active preamp there are ways to do blending that don't require the use of such a hard-to-find component Are you sure you need 250K pots for an active installation? Seems a bit on the high side.
  4. Take smaller bites by using less of the cutting flute length and taking more passes. Remove as much excess by other means (cut closer to the outline on the bandsaw, shave waste off using a rasp) before you tackle it with the router. For problem areas where the routing direction starts to work against the grain flip the body over and use a bit with the bearing on the top and rout 'downhill' instead.
  5. How's this? The push-pull switch block is drawn off to one side for clarity, but would be physically installed on the rear of the volume pot.
  6. Maybe 'taut' isn't the right word, but they're definitely under some tension as they're fed through the moulds (it's called 'pultrusion' after all - the strands get pulled through the resin casting process). It'd be an interesting experiment to try at the very least - form a 4' long beam of epoxy and carbon fibre strands and compare it to a premade carbon fibre beam of the same length and cross sectional area. If they have equal performance when attempting to bend them in the same fashion as they'd undergo inside a neck, then you have your answer
  7. Yep - I understand how the rods are made, but the key thing that (to my feeble mind) makes the difference is that the strands of carbon fibre are pulled taut as they are fed through the resin casting process. Bruce's method lays a few strands loosely into the channel and burys them in epoxy. For all I know his method does exactly what he claims it does, but I have questions regarding the effectiveness of it compared to just spending a few bucks extra per build in raw materials and buying a rod. But they are designed to flex without breaking. Doesn't that imply that the marrying
  8. Dunno. Would the epoxy/carbon mix gain any more strength if the material being impregnated into the channel was something else just as pliable? Cotton rope? Nylon? Horse hair? I'm not suggesting the process doesn't add stiffness to a neck, but I'm doubtful that two epoxied-in carbon fibre strand/channels would be more effective than epoxying in a couple of 6mm premade carbon fibre bars either side of the trussrod. The example that Bruce demonstrates in the linked thread only has the fibre laid about two thirds the length of the neck, directly underneath the trussrod. Is it stiffer th
  9. Don't the carbon fibre strands need to be held under tension while the epoxy sets in order to gain the required strength? I'm not sure you can just lay the fibre strands in the slot, pour epoxy over it and end up with stiffened rod.
  10. The link I mentioned *is* the Bridge Doctor, As far as I'm aware JLD are the only makers of it (although it's not a particularly complex device. I'm sure it could be DIY'ed by just about anyone). FWIW, I'm not suggesting that steaming/heating isn't performed by some in order to flatten a warped top, but it appears to be less common than resetting the neck. For whatever reason the more common approach appears to be to steam the neck off, re-shape the heel attachment faces and re-attach the neck. That may be for the reasons that I listed, could be others, I don't know. Anothe
  11. I get the impression that the repair doesn't normally involve attempts at steaming/reforming the top - softening of the timbers due to steam/heat may make the area prone to simply re-deforming again as soon as string tension is reapplied, loosening of braces may make the repair harder to execute than it needs to be, a significant refinish would be required once complete. I can see why a reset of the neck, while a pretty drastic procedure, has become the 'traditional' method to correct the issue, and perhaps a good reason for the Youtuber, above, to propose an alternative method that is less in
  12. I'm going to err towards the other side and say approach his method with caution. He mentions that the reason that his method of performing a neck reset works is that the area where the fretboard overhangs the body near the soundhole has sunken causing the neck to tilt forward and raising the string action, and that his method restores the original shape of this area of the soundboard thus tilting the neck back the way it originally was. In all the acoustic guitars I've seen that could have done with a neck reset the problem was not that the neck had collapsed forward near the soundhole,
  13. Not using Mach so not familiar with it. Just noticed in the screen shots how much of a mess the GUI looks. Text that doesn't line up, different sized fonts inside buttons, graphical components that don't line up properly.... I know Mach is considered the go-to for motion control on the Windows platform, but the look of it leaves a lot to be desired. More than anything I was checking there wasn't some personal work involved in the way it looked on your part before I started heaping shite on it
  14. On a side note, is that a custom GUI for Mach 3?
  15. Should be OK provided you don't accidentally move the axes by hand whilst changing the bit. Does Mach 3 have a function to do a soft power off? Might also be called 'driver enable/disable'? That'd be less obtrusive than powering the whole machine off. Your E-stop button is there for emergency purposes, and if configured correctly should do an uncontrolled/urgent shutdown of the machine. This is different to a manual stop where the motion controller will pay attention to any deceleration parameters of the motors and spindle when the stop command is given. In that circumstance the soft
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