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curtisa

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curtisa last won the day on June 6

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About curtisa

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  1. Next time I stub my toe on the leg of a chair I'll remember to yell, 'TWANG!!!' at the top of my voice. Or maybe I should use the Finnish word instead..?
  2. I believe the Finnish and English words uttered when accidentally stabbing yourself with the end of a string are pretty similar in both languages
  3. Yes, Strat players are probably well aware of the natural harping that occurs on the open G string if their guitar doesn't have a string tree fitted on the D/G pair. The distance behind the nut to the tuning peg is pretty close to the 5th harmonic on that one string, which then rings like crazy on open staccato runs. I've seen some players exploit it going back the other way though, plucking the string behind the nut to excite the 5th harmonic back onto the open string and then bend the string behind the nut to get some interesting pedal steel-esque slide runs. Metal musicians are often a
  4. Finally had some time to sit down and run another few willing victims through the meat grinder, Length of the string behind the nut The plank used to test string-thru/top loading has been modified slightly and a new headstock attached with a conventional scarf joint to give a back angle of 14 degrees. This helps make the downward angle behind the nut more or less consistent when switching between the two tuning machines. With the earlier flat/stepdown headstock the string angle and subseqeunt downward pressure at the nut would vary with the string anchor point which may affect the re
  5. Another approach to clamping the scarf if you have plenty of excess to play with (as you appear to have in this case) is to use the wedge-shaped offcut from the end of the neck blank and using that as a clamping caul underneath the neck. The two angled surfaces end up cancelling themselves out and you end up with two parallel surfaces to secure the clamps against without them slipping apart so easily.
  6. Probably a good idea. If you can get your hands on some heatshrink tubing it would be better still, but electrical tape would be good enough. I wouldn't worry too much about the rust unless it's particularly severe, in which case you're probably better off buying a new rod. Maybe put a few turns on the nut to test that the rod is working OK and not likely to fail in use. I'm not personally familiar with horn as a nut material, but I think I've seen it mentioned elsewhere as being used. Maybe do a couple of test slots in each and see how hard they appear to be when filed, or polish up one
  7. This video might be of use to you. Looks like the BBS20 is one of those three-wheel variants, which are notorious for being able to set up to work reliably. They're also harder on blades as the small wheels and multiple turns the blade has to make as it goes around cause the blade to flex more than on a large two-wheel bandsaw, which can lead to premature stretching and breaking of the blade. Wobbling blade and unable to make straight cuts suggests your primary problem is insufficient blade tension. It also doesn't look like the cutting capacity is very tall, so you might struggle to
  8. Hipshot and Technology for Musicians get good reps for their headless tremolo units, but expect to pay premium prices for them. I've used a generic unit from Aliexpress that turned out OK, but I upgraded a number of components in order to maximise its chances of a long, serviceable life. The money expended on it probably would've got me close to buying the T4M unit to begin with, but it works as expected. It's good for Allan Holdsworth-style bar work, but I don't expect it to last long doing Steve Vai-style abuse for days on end.
  9. Have a look at some of twoodfrd's videos on his Youtube channel. He often does headstock crack repairs and uses various simple-to-make jigs and contraptions for clamping difficult surfaces and odd angles together.
  10. Currently in the pipeline: stainless steel frets vs nickle silver string distance behind the nut, long vs short. Back soon...
  11. Years ago a work colleague of mine bought a cheap electric jackhammer from eBay. While the product was sold as new under a German-sounding brandname, it was quite obviously a cheap Chinese knockoff and came with a photocopy of a manual from the Bosch product it was cloning. Oddly enough the jackhammer has actually paid for itself multiple times over and has excavated a workshop area under my colleague's house, been loaned out several times to friends and still works perfectly well. I've currently got it and am using it to gradually demolish an old concrete retaining wall in the garden. Th
  12. The 'strumming space' under Option #4 can be set up such that it would be no different to a typical Strat or Tele. If you're familiar with those kinds of guitars (and their many subsets and variants) you'd just need to decide if that was acceptable to you given your hardware and playing preferences. For a first build and for simplicity I'd be steering towards Option #3. Ease yourself into the building process by setting yourself a target that can be attained on first attempt and crank up the level of difficulty later on once you have some more experience behind you. The Schaller bridge yo
  13. Option #1 will either require you to make the neck extra thick or risk having the truss rod dangerously close to poking through the back of the neck, particularly near the nut where you need the most strength. I've used a fretboard up to 8mm thick in the past, but the neck was extra chunky to compensate for the truss rod effectively sitting deeper into the overall bulk of the neck.
  14. You've been buying cheap PPE from China masquerading as serious safety equipment, haven't you? Naughty boy...
  15. The tap size usually refers to the nominal outer diameter of the thread edges on the tap itself, so the hole you need to drill for a 9/16" tap has to be fractionally smaller. Googling 'tap drill diamter' is usually all I do in those situations as I can never remember what size drills are required for each tap without the help of some kind of table or chart. A drill bit of 31/64" diameter is apparently the correct size for a 9/16" tap.
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