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fizzlebottom

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Everything posted by fizzlebottom

  1. just as many as a Gretsch Duo Jet, and they're pretty rockin guitars to me. I know it might be over the top, but the idea isn't very obtrusive to me. I just like being able to take advantage of the equipment I have. Now I could put switches on there to invert the phase of the humbuckers, switch series and parallel ... all that jazz. I just want some good coil splitting capabilities with lots of configurations.
  2. I have an idea for an extremely versatile pickup configuration, but I'm not sure if it is possible with simple controls. It's an H/S/H config (middle is either a P90 or regular SC, doesn't matter). 1 Volume 1 Tone 3 mini-toggle switches, on/off for each pickup. The volume and tone pots are push/pull for splitting the bridge and neck HB's. Possible pickup combinations would be as follows: ------------ bridge hb bridge sc middle neck hb neck sc bridge hb, middle bridge hb, neck hb bridge hb, neck sc bridge sc, middle bridge sc, neck hb bridge sc, neck sc middle, neck hb middle, neck sc bridge hb, middle, neck hb bridge hb, middle, neck sc bridge sc, middle, neck hb bridge sc, middle, neck sc ------------ *i think that covers all the possible combinations that'd be possible with this config* Absurd, right? of course! I'd love to have this happen though, so if I can do it then i will. So is this something that can happen with the electronics I listed?
  3. I don't really consider myself a metal player, although I do listen to a lot of it. The pickups really provide a huge range of sounds, especially with the coil splitting ability of the switch. Here are the pickup combinations it can do with the current wiring: 1: Breed HB 2: Breed SC bridge & FS-1 middle 3: FS-1 middle 4: FS-1 middle & HFH SC neck 5: Humbucker from Hell The tones range from great hard rock/metal sounds with the Breed pickup, to strat-like sounds with the split coils combined with middle pickup, then to the sweetest clean sounds I've ever heard coming from the neck pickup. heavy enough. It's solid machined brass. I think it will really help the strings take advantage of the basswood body, instead of relying on the stupid FRII it had before.
  4. A few years ago, I purchased a guitar off of ebay. The guitar was a Fender Heartfield Talon. Here is a picture of a guitar exactly like the one I bought (same color and all): A little while back, I really started to hate the Floyd Rose II on this thing. Not only because it was an inferior trem, but mostly because I didn't use it and it was ugly as sin to me. In any other circumstance, I would just find and buy another guitar that might suite me better. So, for the time being I bought a Tremol-No and set it to hardtail mode. It was nice, but I still hated the look of this damn trem. I set out on a mission to make this guitar everything I want in an axe. Hardtail, simple hardware & electronics, versatile tones, and an easy player. This is the result of what I've done so far ... Here's the nut I used to replace the FR locking nut: It's an Ebanol replacement from Allparts.com Here is a closeup of the body so far: This bridge (in black) is waiting for holes to be drilled: There are plenty of dings and scratches in the body, considering it is made of basswood. I don't care, though, as long as it feels and sounds the way I want. I've replaced the pickups with a selection of choice Dimarzio pieces. Breed bridge, FS-1 rwrp middle, Hum. from Hell neck (had to cut the pickguard for a humbucker). The pots (CTS), selector switch (YM50), cap (Sprague Orange Drop), and output jack (Switchcraft) have all been installed and are ready to go. I hope that everything goes smoothly with this thing, because I'm extremely excited to play it. Many people would tell me that it's not worth the time/money, but it is to me.
  5. I just put one of the Ebonite replacement nuts from Allparts on my guitar, and mine was also misaligned. It was a hair off with the screwholes. So instead of trying to make my own nut, I actually decided to just glue the baseplate to the neck, then glue the nut to the baseplace. I used vices to assure straightness, and to get the closest bond between the few pieces as I could. It looks perfectly straight now. I'm going to take it to get shaped to my fretboard, though, because it's a 10" radius nut on a 17" radius neck. Plus, the slots aren't exactly ideal for 11gauge strings.
  6. Perfect. Thanks much for the quick replies. Now I've gotta get some good hard wood filler ...
  7. I have started a project which may be more than I can chew, but I want to get it done anyways. I have a Fender Heartfield Talon. It's just like an early 90's RG. Specifics aren't all too important other than what I'll mention. I'm converting it from FRII to complete hardtail. I filled in the route and bought a Hipshot Hardtail bridge. The plan is to make this a string-through-body guitar. I have all the equipment needed to complete the project (ferrules, bridge, replacement nut), but I think I screwed something up. I had all the necessary holes drilled, installed the hardware, stuck some strings on and went to tune up. Every fretted note was sharp as bloody hell, so I definately got some measurements wrong with bridge placement. I believe it's a scale-length issue. The guitar is originally a 25.1" scale length, I've been told. I made the best measurements I could in order to match the 25.1" scale, but it seems like this guitar REALLY wants to be 25.5". I just could not move the saddles back far enough to get the guitar intonated. So I now have a guitar converted from FRII to hardtail that will not intonate. Is there a simple way/measurement I can make that will help me figure out exactly what scale length this guitar is supposed to be? I am prepared to fill in the already-drilled holes and remeasure/redrill new holes as necessary, so I know I'm not totally screwed. Just need help with measurements.
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