bancika

The difference is that with recessed you can raise pitch in addition to lowering with tremolo (goes two way). As for routing I used this Schaller_Floyd_Rose_Diagram.pdf as a reference, but I don't have a template... Cheers

Thanks!

I never saw it in person actually, I'm in the US and my father is in Serbia, but I think it's just "white"

This one is built by my father for local guitarist, made by his wishes. Pickups are evolution and bridge is original floyd. Neck is 5 piece maple + rosewood with ebony fingerboard and tilted headstock. Cheers PS Sorry for crappy pic quality.

I don't think I have the right tool that can deliver the heat effectively...what about cloth iron?

Can you give me more details about your work: what did you use to heat the wood, how much water exactly (just brush, spray, something else...), whatever you think might be useful. Thanks guys!

I wouldn't expect one piece guitar to have much more sustain than neck-through guitar.

Hi guys, recently I got two maple tops, one flamed 1/8" and quilted 1/4" and would like to use one of them to make replacement body for my RG. The problem is that RG has contoured hand rest which would make it little complicated (see this). The way I see it, I'll have to make body with that contour and then somehow bend top and glue it to the body. Otherwise I would need at least 1" thick top. I'm leaning towards flamed top which is 1/8" and I think it would be easier to bend. Any ideas, thoughts, comments are welcome. Thanks, Bane

I plan to try to do stained figured maple top, but the question is: which stain to use? I got woodburst stains to try but I'm little concerned because those are tung oil based and I'm not sure it polyurethane clearcoat will be happy with it. Any advices? If you wouldn't recommend this stain which one is good? I'm hoping to get effect similar to Ibanez RGA321 (like this), blue or red, still can't decide Thanks in advance

Anyone knows some wood supply store located in NY (around NYC preferably) that has flame maple tops, maybe mahagony body blanks and stuff like that. If not any good online store is good, shot it Thanks, Bane

thanks for reply pete. Now I'm not sure what material is my sheet. It's not chrome, that's for sure, it was pretty rusty when I pulled it out from pile of garbage in my basement, besides chrome isn't magnetic. As for laser, I don't have access to it, but there's local company that has it and it's not too expensive. Take a look at what they made for me in wood, it's my ross compressor pedal Link My blade is also 10cm deep, but my first idea was to put coil(s) away from strings, like this. Also, Idea was to make stacked design with two 4ohm coils. Should I make 4 leads like on humbucker pickups and then just connect two of them or just solder two coils directly to bobbin and make 2 leads going from pickup? Now that you said that I consider cutting blade to about 5mm and moving coil towards strings. That would also mean not using pickup cover because it adds about 1mm to the distance between coil and strings. I noticed that my larger ceramic magnet (from those cheapo humbuckers) won't attract my blade on it's wider side (like this), but on narrower side (like this). I'm little confuzed by that Cheers

Hi! Today I've made a blade for my 2nd driver out of large 3mm ferrite sheet I found in the basement. It turned out really nice, I coated it with black acrylic paint after sanding it, but it just occured to me now that 3mm thick blade maybe isn't enough? What do you think, should I use this or make another one out of 5mm sheet I have? Also, do I need to make top radius on my blade to match string radius? My plan is to make bobbin out of thin 0.8mm plastic and cut it with laser to make everything look nice. Also, I got black plastic pickup cover to put driver in. Tnx

I'm thinking about stacked coil design. I'll try to find some blade material and try to do it with separate blade magnet, then. It sounds more flexible. Sorry to hear that, hope everything will be ok

Here's more info: as seen on photo, driver is wounded on old strat pickup bobbin with core about 60x6mm with magnetized rods as pole pieces (I assume they are AlNiCo V). Before I connected amp to driver I tested it with speaker to make sure everything is working OK. Wire is 0.20mm Pete sent me, which is the same as he used, so I ruled that out. I measured about 8.2ohm of DC resistance of coil, which should be fine. I'm still trying it with power supply, so it might be the reason. As for 2nd shot, do you suggest trying to wind around blade and put magnet under or just wind directly to magnet. I have magnets suitable for both designs, one has 5x6mm profile and one is about 5x12mm. I hope everything's OK Pete! Best regards

Hello, I finally made a few clips of my sustainer during hand test. I recorded from guitar to preamp and then to PC sound card. B string mode 1 B string mode 2 D string mode 1 D string mode 2 I'm really not so sure which mode is which any more. The one I expected to sustain more actually gives me harmonics and "clean" one sustains much less with same settings. IIRC settings are Gain 0%, volume 60%. Also, problem with G string remains the same. No matter which string I hit G has most chance of vibrating (followed by low E). Also, harmonic mode (which sustains more) increases vibration all time, some kind of AGC would surely help there. If I reduce ruby volume that effect decreases but then other mode is even more subtle. By the way, here's a photo of my Fetzer/Ruby that drives sustainer. Link I'll make bobbin for that piece of magnet I have and try dual coil blade design to try both. One more thing, I've found another magner rod but it's broken, so it's only 52mm long. I checked with my guitar and at 24th fret it's only about 1-2mm wider than string spacing. Does it make any difference if I use that one instead of 60mm long one? Cheers, Bancika

Hello, can someone tell me how to determine magnet polarization, how should I place when winding coil. I'll do one driver wound directly to magnet I have, it's 5x6x60mm which should be good.

It's easy when you have back access panel. On strat style guitars it's PITA to remove strings, pickguard etc. On floyd rose equiped guitars it's even bigger mess

I've been also thinking about offboard sustainer, but I doubt that one could make it with single cable. Sustainer level is much greater than guitar level, there will be nose, squeal and whatnot. One solution could be using two cables, but then it's ugly. It would be cool enough to have external power supply. I wish I didn't cut my stereo cable into smaller patch cables Even having batter outside is a success. Using short stereo jumper cable and small battery box attached to guitar strap (like wireless system). Jumper would go from guitar jack to strap box (it goes above strap anyway so it won't be visible). It's the same thing just you don't need long stereo cable. On the other hand you need lots of batteries, so in the long run it's better to go with floor based unit Cheers

well, yes, I used wall wart power supply. It isn't regulated but has a 2200uF filter cap IIRC. I'll try to put it into preamp and then PC later, thanks! yeah, that's how I did it... Branislav

I plugged it directly into mic in of my sound card. What I did is take output of guitar (after tone and volume controls, bridge pickup is selected), split it it two, take one to sustainer and other to PC. Nothing is connected between

Hi, few questions: how should I wire sustainer at all? I tried to make a sound clip of hand test but have a problem. When I wired it in parallel with guitar output on my last test signal didn't even come to sustainer circuit. Only when I unplug guitar cable I get signal coming to sustainer. Weird?! Second, I noticed that when I hit high E string (jn sustain mode) it doesn't sustain but instead G string vibrates in that pitch. I didn't notice that last night. It will maybe be different when I install driver but it's weird anyway. What about phantom powering sustainer circuit using stereo guitar cable. One "stompbox" would be connected to 9V power supply as all other pedals and send those 9V through second "channel" of stereo cord. That would eliminate battery nside guitar. Cheers

tnx guys. I hope pics and clips will be ready soon next up is new driver with that magnet I have with stacked coil. I'd like to compare them before installing. One question.If I wind both coils in the same direction I should connect both starting leads (or both ending) together to get humbucking mode? should I just solder then together on bobbin without making wire taps? Cheers

RESULT I finally finished soldering amp. First I tested it with speakers to make sure it's working OK and I've got little confused. When I set bias for JFET to anything above 3.5V it hums like hell and guitar sounds like it has some kind of ring modulator/octaver effect. At ~3.5V there isn't hum but still a bit of octaver thingy. Reducing drain voltage to ~2.2V solves it. I tried another JFEt and it was the same. Anyone with the same expirience? Then I hooked up driver and tried holding it in hand above strings at about 24th fret (that's where it will be on squier) on my main axe (non-suspecting squier isn't around). Little messing with trimmers (gain and volume) I got some kind of result! Because I used guitar cable to connect to fetzer/ruby I couldn't plug it to amp and hear what it sounds like there but "dry" test went pretty well. Both modes work fine. Even high E string vibrates infinitely. How do you guys set gain and volume? I set mine to 50% gain and 100% volume. It's just a test, when I install it probably it will be somewhat different. One more weird thing: when I press my ear to driver I can hear it humming. When neck pickup is active it also wistles in high pitch. Maybe it's because it's near neck humbucker? Cheers and thanks for great project

I just got back from the store getting all remaining parts for amp circuit. Hopefully I'll have some kind of result tonight Cheers

Yes, those large ones come from two coils of humbucker (the cheap one) and smaller ones are also from other humbucker, just magnet on one coil was missing. I'll ask a friend who gave me pickups if he still has it, if he has you can have it I'll have to make a bobbin (have nice sheet of 1mm plastic that I got by mistake for pickguards, it cuts really well)..and I'll probably try stacked design. It can be only better, right?