bancika

yeah, but the thing is, I'm considering doing that for RG replacement body. I know that semi-hollow are good for jazz and whatnot, but could this be done to modern shred style guitar without loosing anything (except for weight)

Here's the link

What do you folks think about that? I like the idea of reducing body weight, I'm just concerned if you lose some tone from this. Also, it's not a bad idea to make some kind of honeycomb holes, should be simpler to do.

Cheers

They are both pretty soft and light, I think poplar is a bit softer and lighter but then it depends on the piece. The one you have might be different.

I'd never use it for my project, eastern guitar manufactures use it because it's cheap and easy to work with, but I'm always for more sturdy wood.

just my .02

Cheers

Currently i am working on a 3W Class A

cool, I love low power amps, I built 3 so far, all below 6W. The one I'm preparing to build will be push-pull class AB 4-5W with EL91 tubes

Sorry but I'd never waste time with worm infested wood...we burn it where I come from. Can't see the point in using it

Shouldn't bass side of the bridge be offset a little, can you do the intonation correctly on low E string?

Other than that, very nice, keep rocking

I did similar thing with laser for my amp build

Plexi front where controls are looks interesting but won't it make it more prone to pick up noise?

Anyway, great build

Why would you use pine anyways?

here's a link for ya

I like it better with recessed, lower profile is easier to play - at least to me.

Check this out

Cheers

I have a schaller and it's great

Those at LMI are too expensive

And how do you use heat blanket anyway, just plug in the wall and that's it? Is timer/thermostat required?

Thanks,

Bane

Thanks to all for replying, really appreciate it!

What makes it easier is the way RG handrest is made. It looks like most of it is flat with rounded transition between body and the handrest.

I think it would be sufficient just to bend top over some round "object", like this

If I understood correctly, the heat should be applied from above, right?

The problem with these blankets is voltage...in Serbia we have 220V so these won't work. Do you know if there are international blankets?

Also, it looks like I'll need some smaller blanket if I just need to bend wood at one line.

Thanks again,

Bane

The difference is that with recessed you can raise pitch in addition to lowering with tremolo (goes two way).

As for routing I used this Schaller_Floyd_Rose_Diagram.pdf as a reference, but I don't have a template...

Cheers

Thanks!

I never saw it in person actually, I'm in the US and my father is in Serbia, but I think it's just "white"

This one is built by my father for local guitarist, made by his wishes. Pickups are evolution and bridge is original floyd. Neck is 5 piece maple + rosewood with ebony fingerboard and tilted headstock.

Cheers

PS Sorry for crappy pic quality.

I don't think I have the right tool that can deliver the heat effectively...what about cloth iron?

Can you give me more details about your work: what did you use to heat the wood, how much water exactly (just brush, spray, something else...), whatever you think might be useful.

Thanks guys!

I wouldn't expect one piece guitar to have much more sustain than neck-through guitar.

Hi guys,

recently I got two maple tops, one flamed 1/8" and quilted 1/4" and would like to use one of them to make replacement body for my RG.

The problem is that RG has contoured hand rest which would make it little complicated (see this). The way I see it, I'll have to make body with that contour and then somehow bend top and glue it to the body. Otherwise I would need at least 1" thick top.

I'm leaning towards flamed top which is 1/8" and I think it would be easier to bend. Any ideas, thoughts, comments are welcome.

Thanks,

Bane

I plan to try to do stained figured maple top, but the question is: which stain to use? I got woodburst stains to try but I'm little concerned because those are tung oil based and I'm not sure it polyurethane clearcoat will be happy with it. Any advices? If you wouldn't recommend this stain which one is good?

I'm hoping to get effect similar to Ibanez RGA321 (like this), blue or red, still can't decide

Thanks in advance

Anyone knows some wood supply store located in NY (around NYC preferably) that has flame maple tops, maybe mahagony body blanks and stuff like that. If not any good online store is good, shot it

Thanks,

Bane

thanks for reply pete.

Now I'm not sure what material is my sheet. It's not chrome, that's for sure, it was pretty rusty when I pulled it out from pile of garbage in my basement, besides chrome isn't magnetic. As for laser, I don't have access to it, but there's local company that has it and it's not too expensive. Take a look at what they made for me in wood, it's my ross compressor pedal Link

My blade is also 10cm deep, but my first idea was to put coil(s) away from strings, like this. Also, Idea was to make stacked design with two 4ohm coils. Should I make 4 leads like on humbucker pickups and then just connect two of them or just solder two coils directly to bobbin and make 2 leads going from pickup?

Now that you said that I consider cutting blade to about 5mm and moving coil towards strings. That would also mean not using pickup cover because it adds about 1mm to the distance between coil and strings.

I noticed that my larger ceramic magnet (from those cheapo humbuckers) won't attract my blade on it's wider side (like this), but on narrower side (like this). I'm little confuzed by that

Cheers