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JohnnyG

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About JohnnyG

  • Birthday 10/07/1985

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  • Member Title
    Pish Artist

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  • Location
    UK
  • Interests
    Playing guitar, messin around with all things electrical, planning the guitar that i will eventually gett around to make and skateboarding.

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  1. idch, id honestlly just go with a minimalist booster pedal. if you're willing to build it then there are many around that will literally run on 10uA (so a normal 9volt battery will last *mental calculation* just shy of 100 thousand hours i think) so changing batteries will hardlly be a problem http://www.geocities.com/tpe123/folkurban/fuzz/snippets.html this is Tim Escobde(sp?)'s site. have a look at the cinnabar, the tytewadd or the syrupp for 3 boost circtuits that all have minimal current gain. withoutgoing active if you want something stompable then you're going to have to go with a pot in a box like LK said
  2. i think its to do with tube triode gain circuits having a higher output impedance (about 100k to 300k) and so a 1 Meg pot would be used so that it doesnt load the gain stage down.
  3. personally for stomp boxes id go with a DS-1 and probablly a phaser if you;re after some of that EVHsound. tho youd probablly be better investing in a good amp for a decent distorion sound
  4. for my studio i have an M-audio Omnistudio loaded into my fatty computer http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/omnistudio.html for someone who wants a break out box that has onboard mic pre-amp and a high impedance input that you can plug a guitar straight into id recomend this. clearlly its alitle more expensive but but its solidand works well one other thing that ill just add.if you'remicing an amp, then make sure you have a decent speaker cab. im having to sit around untill i can have the cash to build a new amp since with my Shure SM57 i just can't get a good sound out of my diddy little MG15 also for people looking to do alot of research http://www.tweakheadz.com/index.html i found this site a few days ago and it has loads of great info for making home studios including recomended setups for certain budgets and styles of music you want to make
  5. i wasnt planning to use it for heavy routinging tho i suppose if im going to be using it to gut aluminium chassis etc then it would be worth dropping the extra to get a good one. looking for them on places other than ebay they seem to start at around £50 for a dremel/bit set. so i may wait untill ive got me a job again before dropping the cash on it unless i find something very promising on ebay cheers for the advice guys. espescially the mention of the flexible shaft from Dugz Ink, that would make some things a helluvalot easier so ill be nabbing one of them as well ill see what mains powered versions they have on ebay but ill research more before i buy anything thanks
  6. Im looking into buying a dremel. im not planning to use it for any guitar inlays just yet tho clearlly thats a posability. main uses will be everything from grinding glass to make slides through to modding and hacking up computer cases. on ebay there are alot of people selling these 60 piece dremel sets with recharger and everything for about £10 to £15 (20 to 30 USD roughlly) for that price will i be getting a rubbish piece of kit that will crap out after a day or will i be ok? is there anything i should avoid or look for. im asking here since i know that a fair few guys will use them and i wasnt able to find anything when i searched thanks for any advice JG
  7. in a jiffy i can just chuck my guitarthrough either my boss OC-2 or my whammy to get an octave down but there are some things you need a bass for ill see your two marsbars and raise it a crunchy
  8. some people have all the luck. very nice deal i reckon tho i wouldnt be to hopeful on the fender front i have been wanting a bass for a while just to start recording with. ill give you a tenner and a marsbar for it
  9. amazing art work. im personally not so keen on the way the dragon looks but i can't knock the talent man. impressive as always
  10. there isn't really a right or wrong way to hook effects up. personally i much prefer the effect of a wah after a distortion pedal since putting it before hardly affects the sound to my ears. this may be just with my set up tho (Vox Reissue Wah with output buffer mod into a Boss DS-1) ive been finding that putting a short slap back kind of delay at the begining of the chain to be good for glitchy skipping type sounds but thats clearlly an aquired taste. ordinarilly delay or reverb before distortion doesnt sound that great. id just play around, my effects chain isnt really an ordinarry guitar players rig, 3 out of 6 pedals are pitch shifters of some sort
  11. well there are acouple of things you could do. you could just take the tone control pot and capacitor straight out, just desolder it from the rest of the electronics. however this will probablly change the sound and may sound too bright for you. if you want to keep the tone the same then the first thing to do is find out the value of the tone pot (will either be 500k or 250k) and the value of the tone capacitor (im afraid im not too sure what these normally are so you'll have to look) once you know that, desolder the tone pot connector from whatever it was connected to. take it and the capacitor on it out. then in its place solder a resistor and capacitor in series with each other. these should go between where the tone pot origionally was and ground. this will keep the tone the same but get rid of the pot. im not too sure if thats as clearas i wanted it to be but hopefully you get the idea. just ask if you dont understand
  12. hhhmm most interesting. my only thinking is that passive tone controls are unable to actually do a proper boost so in essence its more like attenuation of all frequencies with either more or less attenuation on the mids. if i were doing a mid boost tone control personally id go active but thats just me. i cantsee of anyreason why it wouldnt work, ill have a look at the site and the circuit in some more detail but hey if it does and its useful then who am i to argue?
  13. ive done most of the stewart castledine mods on mine. couple of resistor changes, taken out the Q resistor thats in series with the inductor and put in a 100k pot thats connected to the ouside so i can play withdifferent Q values. if i can find a SP5T rotarty switch then i may well out in the sweep range mod. only other things i really need to do to it are true bypass the sucker and maybe change the inductor. inductors are a bit pricey mind you so thats a little way off lol
  14. to do this you would need to get either a DPDT stomp switch and use the Millenium Bypass method (www.geofex.com and have a look around) or get a 3PDT and use that to do true bypass wih an LED. soon as i get round to getting some good stomp switches im going to TB my Vox Reissue wah. its modded to hell but the true bypassing should have been the first thing i did lol
  15. i wouldnt worry, i like tothink i know what im doing and i do some stupid things sometimes like thetime i was getting annoyed about having a fuxx circuit that wasnt working, checked battery, checked jacks, checked that it was plugged into the right jack.....eventually checked to see if id put the transistors in the sockets *slaps head* it aint going ot make much noise if theres no active electronics lol
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