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Magnus

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Everything posted by Magnus

  1. Magnus
    They would fuss, bitch, yell, kick chairs and slam doors.
  2. Magnus
    When I built my LP back in 2003, I had about $600-$650 in materials, but after I bought all the tools needed to make it, I could have probably gotten a nice used Les Paul Standard at the time.
  3. Magnus
    BTW, I used nitro spray cans on my strat, and it turned out great. I used Reranch cans for the color, and Deft clear. Those Deft spray cans are nice if you don't have a compressor/gun setup (I don't). Like the others were saying, test on some scrap Poplar and see how you like different tints.
  4. Magnus
    How did you get the inlays so tight and clean?
  5. Magnus
    Another thing on the top carve: the Burst guys tell me (and this is how I did my top) is the top is slightly angled at the bridge, all the way to the rear of the neck pickup. At the neck pickup, the neck angle comes in. I set my neck angle at 4 degrees, and the ABR-1 bridge is very low to the deck height, just about perfect. Here is a link that shows what I'm talking about. http://mountainwhimsy.com/2012/03/top-carve-2/
  6. Magnus
    Ah, I'm late to the party! Long time member, but I had actually forgotten about the site for a couple of years. I built my les paul back in 2003, and I still have to put a finish on it. If you've never carved a top before, I'd suggest getting some wood from some place like Home Depot, that is the same thickness as your top, and practice with that. I carved three poplar tops like that to get a feel for what I was doing before I tackled the quilted maple. I did the step method, where I routed ledges in the top where I wanted the lines to be, then sanded it smooth with an electric disk sander. BTW, how close to a 59 Les Paul do you want to get? The top carve is a little different on the 50s Les Pauls. And, I did a scarf joint on my neck, but I put the scarf in the headstock. It is hidden on the top by the veneer on the face of the headstock.
  7. Magnus
    I don't think it will be a problem with what I want to do. I'm going to use the attachment for the dremel that Stew Mac sells for cutting binding channels on archtop guitars. I had one a couple of years ago, and lost it. It works pretty well, and the binding is really small.
  8. Magnus
    I forgot about the router base from Stew Mac, and the bit with the pilot. Thanks Doug.
  9. Magnus
    How would you go about cutting the binding channel for a headstock? The binding i'm wanting to do is like the bound Jackson or Kramer headstock binding. I tried the search engine, but couldn't find what I was looking for. Any suggestions?
  10. Magnus
    Yeah, I did practically the same thing, except I was in too much of a hurry to use it, so I skipped the set screw, and put some masking tape around the shaft of the fret caul. That was probably two years ago. I still haven't taken it to a machine shop to get a set screw.
  11. Magnus
    Does anyone know where I can find a 1/2" straight bit with 1/2" cutting length other than Stew Mac? I haven't been able to find one yet.
  12. Magnus
    Cool.
  13. Magnus
    I think you're on the right track. I would suggest that you print it out full size, and cut out the body shape on heavy poster board, or something similar, and see how you like the size. After that, you can always make a wooden mockup from Masonite, or some pine to see how you like it.
  14. Magnus
    Not again! Warmoth calls them double expanding, which they are. Warmoth does not call them double acting. They're single acting rods. Sorry, read that wrong, years ago. Must have hit a nerve.
  15. Magnus
    I'm not sure what you mean by a template trimmer, but here is a nice set of template bits to start out with. http://www.grizzly.com/products/h5566
  16. Magnus
    I got one last week. Good bit, but I'm still going to order another from Stew Mac. The reason being, is i'm using masonite templates, and that bit that you linked to has a 1" cutting length. Too long for me to route the neck pocket and pickup cavities on my strat.
  17. Magnus
    Nope. What I mean, is that if i'm not doing a compound radius on the frets, then I could get the job done a lot faster with the aluminum radius block. I make sure my fretboards are level, before I ever reach for the frets or fretting tools. Learned from past experience.
  18. Magnus
    The ones from Warmoth works nicely as well for thin necks, but the nut is not welded on. They are more like a single action truss rod, even though they advertise them as double acting.
  19. Magnus
    Play with a soda can and a ruler for a few minutes and you'll see what I mean. I meant for leveling the frets quicker. I like the way i'm leveling now, with the aluminum level, so I can put a slight compound radius on the frets. Besides, I don't see any reason to shell out that much money for a tool I won't use a whole lot, when I have something that works just fine.
  20. Magnus
    If you want a low-cost alternative, go get an aluminum level at the hardware store. I've got one, it is very straight, and it works well for me. I can definitely see how the radiused aluminum beam is superior.
  21. Magnus
    Good job, Matt. Sometimes making it yourself works just as well. Case in point: Stew Mac sells their arbor press for $99.94. I went and bought a 1/2 ton arbor press from Harbor Freight for $15-20 (I don't remember the exact amount) and all I had to do to it was drill a hole in the end of the ram for the fretting caul to fit in. Wrap a little tape around the fretting caul, and push it in the hole.
  22. Magnus
    I have an old Ibanez Flanger that I had to crimp the battery terminal connections. It's worked fine ever since, so I figure it should be fine.
  23. Magnus
    +1 ears for both necks. It seems a potential waste of wood to size the neck blank based on the width of the headstock. Ok thats good to know. I agree with what you say John I hate waste so you ll be happy to know the reason why I have used a 3" wide neck blanandto include the headstock, is the timber was salvaged from a builders skip, the mahogany were door frames and I got about 6 x 6' pieces, all of which are at least 3 inches wideand 2" deep. I have to work around the bolt, nail holes etc but I won't be short for neck blanks for a while "Gipsun" uses peghead ears, and have at least since the fifties. If you need a pdf or jpeg of a Gibson headstock based on a 'burst let me know. I've got it on file, and I can send it to you full size.
  24. Magnus
    I have used both the Warmoth rod and I have a Grizzly rod in a neck that is going on my strat project. Warmoth calls theirs a double acting trussrod, but the nut just threads on. The one that I have WILL NOT impart an upbow. It works like a single action truss rod to me. The Grizzly is double acting. Hard to explain how it works, but if you had one in hand, you could see how it does. I haven't measured both of them, but dimensionally, the Warmoth and the Grizzly are very close.
  25. Magnus
    Nah, I was talking about how you like it when you get it finished. Kind of, was it a worthwhile mod? That type of thing.
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