RJV

Sorry for tardy reply - I have been flat out lately. The fuzz and theramin are from a stripped down Zvez Fuzz Probe pedal. In actual fact its wrong of me to describe it as a theramin. The copper plate on the upper horn of the guitar is an RF antenna which enables the compression on the fuzz to be varied by waving the hand over it ....."like a theramin". So the guitar does not have an in-built theramin - the antenna just varies the compression on the fuzz to vary the tone of the guitar pickup output. The pitch effects come from an in-built Boss PS-5 Super Shifter pedal. If you are interested there are a few new videos of the guitar in action on Youtube. See the links in my signature.

There's certainly a lot of wiring but the layout is logical and I went to great pains to colour code it, group it, clip it etc. It doesn't look pretty in the photo second from the bottom but at that stage I was still bench testing the concepts and so I wasn't worried about it being a rat's nest (in some parts I was just linking one point to another with total disregard for wire length/routing etc. just to make sure the theory worked in practice without annoying crackles or hum). The third last photo (looking at the open control cavity) was taken just before closing it up. Again, in practice the wiring is easier to follow than it appears in the photo, and the apparent "excess of wire" in the cavity is quite deliberate as it is there to enable, firstly, the pitch shifter PCB (that's it on the right of the photo) and, secondly, the Roland GK-3 divided pickup PCB to be flipped out of the control cavity for future repairs/mods to these items or to the pickuop switch or other knobs. The Fuzz PCB is more difficult to access as it is buried in the front of the guitar just above the middle pickup. So the entire pickguard needs to be removed to get access to this. Not ideal, but I wanted to keep the back of the guitar uncluttered and so opted for this position. As there are no moving parts in the Fuzz PCB this shouldn't be a real problem. Having said all this, I guess I can repair/mod it with my eyes closed (well nearly ) ....but it could pose quite a challenge (and probably an expensive one) for your average guitar tech.

OK, no sweat. My motivation for linking from here was that it is my only web space where I can park photos for free and manage them easily, and in any event I already had the photos and spec on display there. Yes I sell parts etc. but I am not angling to sell anything here given this is a global forum (I supply in Australia only) and the parts I sell can be purchased in thousands of other places closer to forum members' homes.

You are right, I would also be heartbroken to sell it. But I didn't do that. I made it as a gift - which adds rather than takes away from the enjoyment of having made it.

Thanks, the Z shape is a nice shape as is, and it was especially well suited to adding in on-board effects as the body section nearest the jack plate is slightly elongated and thus gives more room for all the electronics (as compared to, say, a standard Strat shape). The lower cutaway, in combination with the contoured heel, makes it incredibly easy to get to the 20th to 22nd frets.

"Purely an advert" ????? It's not for sale ..... its not even mine. I made it for one person as a gift. I enjoyed making it, the owner is delighted to own and play it. Pardon me, but I thought members on this forum were interested in seeing the handiwork of other guitar owners/makers. I must be wrong.

This wasn't posted in a sarcastic manner Erik, more as a distillation of quite a large heavy reading post! I'm new to this forum (and to guitar building) so I don't know if starting with a purchased body and neck means I shouldn't say "I built .....". But if you look at the photos of the routed body and the bare electrics (two of the photos not in this forum but accessed through the link under my signature) one should see that the body is scarcely what anyone can purchase - in the end I really did wonder why I hadn't started with a bare block of wood - and the electronics are otally designed and built by my hand. So yes, it certanly feels to me that I built this. I created the design, heavily routed a stock body, designed and hand made the electronics, tested, retested and modified these, cut and filed all the metalwork and assembled the lot. I didn't benefit from any external advice on the building, as you will see that the original post above (in November) received no reples. I got someone else to paint it (as a one-off build I couldn't justify purchasing all the safety gear for handling nasty two pack paint) and, of course, someone else chromed the metal. And my son is the accomplished player so his considerable input to the design was invaluable. Hence why I said "I built .....". Anyways, the original post is in a discussion forum about electronics ....which I certainly built. Regards, RJV Custom Guitars

My weighing scales are pretty old so I can't trust the absolute weight, but when I weigh this and then a Strat they tell me that its about 500 grams (a bit more than a pound) heavier than the Strat. To play it it feels heavier but not uncomfortably so .... is certainly lighter than a solid body Les Paul !! When I get access to some good scales I will certainly weigh it.

Thanks for the welcome Brian. Regards, RJV

Hi all. Just finished a custom build and am pleased with the results. The guitar has some unusual features and effects - an onboard Fuzz with RF Antenna (functions like a theremin), a Pitch Shifter, a GK-3 Roland Divided pickup (for MIDI), 10 mode pickup selector etc. I'm pleased with the look, and the guitar plays and feels great. A versatile instrument, and through trial and error the technology works perfectly. Here are some pics pasted below, with some more pics and specs at this link ... More Pictures and Specifications and here is a link to a 9 minute demo video on YouTube and here is a link to a 6 minute demo video on YouTube and here is a link to a 5 minute demo video on YouTube Regards, RJV

Five months later, the guitar is finished. I am very pleased with the result - look great, sounds great and technically performs exactly as planned. Here are some pictures for any one interested. More pictures and specification posted here .... More Pictures and Specifications Regards, RJV

Thanks. I understand you - thats how the Line 6 Variax is wired (the box on the floor has 9 volts in, a stereo lead in from the guitar, and a mono lead out to the amp). You have listed the problems I am worried about (hum, interference, blowing things up). So I am hopeful that someone in the forum has some solutions to these portential problems.

Thanks - I will look at phantom power and XLR if thats the only option but I'm not very keen on it. Firstly, because I don't understand it and learning, using and living with it is straying out of my comfort zone. Secondly, since both an XLR lead and a stereo lead have 3 conductors I dont yet see a compelling need to install an XLR socket on my guitar (= ugly) instead of a discrete phono jack (or two). Advice on type and wiring of phono jack(s)?

I am well on the way to completing a scratch built guitar with modified on-board effects (based on a Boss PS5 Super Shifter and a Zvex Fuzz Probe). I have wired both effects in series with a true bypass switch each, and each effect is powered by one of two on-board 9 volt DC batteries. Everything works perfectly so far and after I finish adding in the wiring for a Roland GK3 Midi I will be just about all done. Until now my plan has been to power the effects by the on board batteries only, but I would like to explore ways of using a 9 volt DC power adaptor on the floor and feeding the 9 volts up a stereo (?) guitar lead which also carries the guitar signal in the opposite direction (i.e. from the guitar to the amp). This would save a lot of batteries as the PS5 really chews through them quickly. I have a Line 6 Variax which works in a similar manner - a stereo lead plugs into a floor level Line 6 adaptor box which thus provides for 9 volts AC (not DC) to power the guitar and the signal to come from the guitar. I have opened the back of the Variax to look at how the stereo jack is wired up but as its all integrated into complex proprietary circuitry and PCBs I didn't learn anything. Can anyone guide me on what sort of jack to install in the guitar and how to wire it? I have looked at mono and stereo Switchcraft jacks, and also at switchable jacks. Presumably I need a stereo jack and lead to give me three conductors ... tip = guitar signal, sleeve = ground, but can I safely wire the ring for 9 volt DC positive and then connect the 9 volt DC negative also to sleeve, I'm just not sure about this, as every time I look closely at a stereo plug as it inserts into a jack it seems to momentarily short between the combinations (i.e. the plug tip touches the jack ring as it slides in, the plug tip and ring slide on the jack sleeve etc.) I am concerned that this will cause unacceptable clicking and/or damage to the effects and/or pickups. So what sort of jack do I need, and how do I wire it up to work effectively and safely? One solution which occurred to me (but isn't pretty to look at) would be to split the stereo lead into two mono jacks at the guitar end - say with a 1/4 inch jack handling the guitar signal (tip=+ and sleeve=ground) and a 1/8 inch jack providing the 9 volt DC (ring=+ and shared sleeve=-). Thanks for all help.

Having purchased many stock guitars before its time to build my own. I have some fixed ideas on design but having read a lot of very relevant threads in this Forum (and elsewhere : Manson Guitars, Muse site etc.) I'm hoping that some members can alert me to any major technical problems I might encounter - particularly with respect to my plans to install effects inside the guitar. I'm not dreaming - this project is really happening as I have already ordered many parts (body, neck, trem, pickups ... but no effects as yet). The design is broadly : - Warmoth Z Body guitar (alder) - Warmoth 25 1/2 inch Wizard profile Pro Neck (AAA Birdseye maple, with Brazilian Rosewood fingerboard) - Original Floyd Rose Tremolo and Locking Nut - HSS Pickup config : Gibson Burstbucker 3 in the bridge with 2 Fender Hot Noiseless Strat in mid and neck - Inbuilt ZVex Fuzz Probe - Inbuilt Boss PS5 Super Shifter - Roland GK-3 Divided Pickup MIDI Kit (inbuilt) I'm big on self help - I've thought about this a lot, and done a lot of research. I've asked very few questions of others as I enjoy the challenge of learning the hard way !! But now its getting close to having to take the plunge and purchase the Zvex Fuzz Probe and Boss PS5 and, shortly after, having to rout some very big holes in what is currently a very nice body. So its time to sense check a few things : 1. Zvex Fuzz Probe vs Fuzz Factory - initially I planned to install the FF but discovered the Probe and would like to see if I can install the Probe successfully. I plan to make a new (slightly smaller) copper plate RF antenna and install this on the upper horn. The PCB will be installed in a new rear rout with the Volume, Drive and Gate knobs rearward and the Comp and Stab knobs up front. An on/on toggle will allow me to select or bypass the Probe. I will also have an on/off toggle to disconnect the RF antenna when not required (an alternative will be to use a push/pull switch on the Stab knob). What I am unsure of is whether (temporarily) disconnecting the RF antenna in this way will still allow the effect to work as the FF does (i.e. will the Stab knob work normally, giving me the full range as per the FF?). I am also unsure as to whether the close proximity of the guitar strings to the RF antenna will mean that a/ the vibrating and grounded strings will influence the RF antenna, and/or b/ the RF antenna will cause the pickups to hum? As I doubt that I can reuse the pots on the Zvex (I believe they are PCB mounted types) I'm hoping that I can figure out their specs and find suitable replacement types for standalone installation. (Please don't suggest I ask Zack at Zvex - he must get hundreds of simialr requests and if he truly wanted to help on this he would have posted some FAQs on his website long ago. He's clearly a very busy person selling pedals, not modifying guitars.) 2. Boss PS5 - installed possibly in the control cavity (but otherwise in a new rear rout), with the Pitch and Speed knobs up front and the other 4 knobs at the rear. This pedal will be wired after the Probe with an on/on toggle to allow the PS5 to be selected or bypassed in the same way as the Probe. Fortunately the pots are mounted on their own small PCB so I can probably reuse this for the 4 knobs at the rear and need only 2 new pots for the front. I don't envisage any problems with this effect, other than I will be installing 2 x 9 volt battery box principally to power this effect (draws 50mA) but also the Probe. 3. Roland GK-3 Divided Pickup MIDI kit - installed in the control cavity. I will substitute the Patch Up and Patch Down push buttons for a rebound toggle but otherwise this will be a stock installation. I have downloaded the installation instructions for this kit and as they are not clear they have me a little confused about how the normal guitar jack wiring integrates with the MIDI wiring. I'm hoping that it will be clearer when I have the kit in my hands. 4. Power - I would like to find a way to power the effects externally but without extra leads, say, by using a 3 conductor stereo guitar lead and sending 9 volts DC up the second conductor returning down the lead's shield conductor (so shared with the pickup output). Sounds simple, but would it create hum or other problems? I know the Line 6 Variax does something like this and it obviously works for this. Other solutions? Does the GK-3 13 conductor cable have a pair of wires dedicated to power? What voltage? 5. Pots - I'm still reading up on this, but for the pots other than those controlling the effects I figure that 250k are generally used for single coils and 500k for humbuckers. So what does one then use for a Master Volume and Master Tone on a HSS configuration? And should the Volume be audio taper and the Tone be Linear Taper? 6. Relative Volumes - The main setup will be broadly as follows (I still need to teach myself more on wiring) : HSS pickups > 5 way selector switch > on/on (bypass) toggle > Fuzz Probe > on/on (bypass) toggle > PS5 > Master Tone pot > master Volume pot > on/off/on toggle kill switch > output jack > amplifier. I'm concerned that toggling the Probe or the PS5 (or both) in and out of the flow will cause unacceptable variations in volume. Maybe I need separate volume knobs for the effects up front? I'm fast running out of space on the front of the guitar so if these are necesary I could install them on the back, or perhaps trim pots might be all that is required (but these would be set and forget). Any thoughts on whether relative volumes will become an issue? 7 Shielding - I expect shielding is going to be critical so I'm planning on copper lining every cavity front and back, under and around the pickups and under every control cover..... and double around the Fuzz Probe. Will this be enough, or am I going to have problems? Well there you have it. A long story, but I would be very appreciative if members could review these plans and help by answering any of the specific questions. Also, if you can see a trap I may fall into, please warn me !!! Thanks in advance. RJV