Woodenspoke

You can buy one good sander, but not a good jig saw for anything like $80. Nor can you expect to buy both for $80. Bosch, mikita, dewalt porter cable all make good RO sanders for under $80. No one makes a good jig saw for under $80, try harbor freight but I have no clue how it will work. At the very least your final project depends on a good sander so dont cheap out unless you like to hand sand after you power sand.. I guess you can live with a crummy Jig saw as long as it can cut 1 3/4" hardwood. Good luck.

Back to glue, I hate this. Both of your choices are unsuited for guitars. Weatherproof means water resistant which means can cause finishing problems. Please look for the one hundred threads which discuss the many proper glues for your guitar project.

First its not really a big operation, but if you need to clamp dozens or just dont like clamps due to the weight I would suggest the following. Build a u shaped box using hardwood and add two bolts to one side and a sliding hardwood block as the pressure face of the clamp. Or the same setup with wedges bu its hard to hold up a neck and tap in wedges. Another suggestion is buy a better clamp like a Bessy 12" with a large flat face. This is not a job for standard bar clamps (sash clamp) with small round faces.

I am going to suggest that the sides are probably thicker than anything you can find on an acoustic. Not too expensive to bend a thick piece of plywood and add a veneer. My guess...

You always need cooling and heating and ideally humidity control. I have my shop piped for dust and have had two homes with central Vacs. I mean it could be possible to have one wood size collector do both but honestly it would be beyond my abilities to figure out the logistics of such a system. They both are noisy and need to be located outside of the living space at least for the Central vac, like a garage. Then if someone wants to Vacuum your dust collector will kick in, I would be annoyed with That arrangement. Anyway good luck.

Considering the 103 feedbacks in 6 years you have a very very small ebay business. Seems like your feedback is good not sure how that fitsinto the customer service problem you seem to have or had. I mean two people on this forum who have been burned is a pretty big number.

The answer is no. Get a central Vac for your house and buy a real dust collector for your shop. I suggest you look at a larger unit capable of dust collection at several machines such as a cyclone style with hepa filter. Create a shop tha is fully piped in. Never pipe in a dust collector in the wall, if it gets clogged you are screwed. I would go for a seperate shop outside of the house or attached in a seperate wing. It will keep your house much cleaner. 1. Most central vacs run off 1 1/2" - 2" PVC tubing. A dust collector for multiple machines needs 5" to 6" Pipe to move enough air to pick up chips. 2. When or if you need to move you can take it with you. 3. Central Vacs clog easily and are not made to handle large amounts of a fine dust. 4. Central vac has a very small canister so its capacity is limited.

I stooped resawing the back of my headstock's and now use a Oscillating drum sander and a 4" aluminum angle as a fence. Sort of an open drum sander. Still needs to be cleaned up afterwords but less risky than a bandsaw once the headstock is close to final dimension. It also makes a nice curve for a back strap option next to the neck if you use a drum with the proper diameter for your look. As for thickness it depends on how it was buit and how far the tuners will stick up. A top plate and backstrap will add considerable strenght. So Im not worried?

Strangely enough Finewoodworking had a blurb about Thermally modified wood. It can actually be bought directly. Try these links. http://www.purewoodproducts.com/ http://www.ecoprem.com/ http://natureschoicedecking.com/8.html I know one of them does hardwoods. well if anyone is interested in exploring for a local supplier. Foe me I will stick with the old school method, just wood. LOL good luck.

Oak has a soft and a hard grain and depending on the cut will be impossible to sand flush except with a drum sander. A random prbit and a pad sander will both cut the softer darker areas faster. Also hand sanding isnt any better unless you use a long board that spans the soft grain. Scrapers are the only hand method I know of which can avoid this problem. It may have been a cheap choice for a wood body but not really the best guitar wood. Also getting a board that was quartersawn eliminates this problem for the most part. Find a long flat board and glue the sandpaper down like 8" long at the least. Glue it or the paper ill sink into the softer wood.

Its certainly not how hard the wood is but how resistant it is to splitting when going against the grain. Some woods work fine others no so much. Also depends on your skill level with the router and if the router is crappy or nice. If your router has adjustable speed a 3/4" bit should be at full. You dont change the speed unless the bit is wide like when making a door panel. I have never seen any guitar related operation that requires a slower speed that what the router was set to at the factory or full out. 3/4" is not a large bit. Climb cutting is one way but way but too scary for most people. The other is to use a router table and a dual bearing bit, top and bottom. Amana sells one which allows you to flip the guitar and cut with the grain without a second template. This again assumes you are using a 2" bit and making a full pass. This is what I use. You still have to adjust the height of the bit when you flip. The other solution is a pattern bit then a flush trim bit both at 2" long. Taking light cuts also helps as was mentioned. One of the reasons a good bandsaw is so important is it leaves very little wood to remove with the router. Depth of cut, pass depth, speed your moving the router. router type, bit quality, skill level, wood species all play a part in what happens using a router.

every bridge is different. Unless is is a name brand brige you will most likely have to figure it out for yourself how far to space the holes. If it isnt a korean bridge look at the manufacturers link they usually show specs, if they dont call them. As for the inserts measur the diameter and make a smaller hole. Probably time to buy an inexpensive digital caliper,

Some things to look for. 14" or over (93 1/2" blade plus) Lots of steel not aluminum (weigth is everything) Big motor 3/4hp or better bearings on the wheels turn freely (they spin easily with no bland on it) with no crunchy sounds. The thing runs, rust can be removed. Many people buy beat up heavy duty bandsaws and refurbish them (see OWWM.com). Depends on how fast you need the machine and how much money you can spend over time. I would rather buy a better machine and fix it than be stuck some some cheap machine.

He has a complete shop at his diposal for the build. Includes a new bottle of glue too.. A nice birch top. Great find, cheap too.

12 point socket, another new piece of information to remember..Now I have to count one.

Pretty much any mat made of rubber is a non slip mat. Some of the eary ones were just foam rubber carpet backing and a firm grade. Evn the stuff they sell for shelving can be used.

My CA gun has the same kind of nozzle. You need a socket set, mine uses a 3/8" socket to remove it. Not the 6 sided smooth sockets the multi spline style. I actually have no idea what that socket style is called? What did you expect tools to come with your gun.

How come evryone always screws up brians plans? Seems like atrend lately. I havent looked are they that bad or are all the disclamers missing?

I dont know why cherry is not a guitar wood staple. I have no experience using it for necks so I am not sure how it would hold up. Generally its as stable as maple. The fact that I am sitting on a huge pile should be a hint to try it.

Why? Seems fine to me. Just drink some of that Everclear and you will not remember you dont have West Epoxy. I am discounting the Polyurethane -1 as a unsutable glue but added a +1 for the Everclear. Have you tried that in epoxy yet? **For the unknowing Everclear is a 199 Proof grain alcohol (almost pure corn alcohol) used for working with shellac or gulped straight from the bottle when your build goes south. It is actually illegal to sell it in some US states** You saw how much of the Everclear is missing right... had more than one bad build. I have a spare bottle on the other side of the shop just incase. So grain alcohol to thin epoxy? Better than acetone? I was using the Everclear to soften the EM6000 after it sat for a few days to prevent witness lines. Don't. The guys that are doing it are lucky not right. It is very easy to make a mess with it. You can't -1 for the Polyurethane. It is for making benches and stands to hold my equipment not guitars. The friggin saws and sanders like to vibrate the screws loose after a couple of years so I started gluing the crap out of them while using 3" wood screws to hold them together. However I hate wasting good titebond on them so I use gorilla glue. Also works for gluing dead things to other dead things... and getting on the bottom of your shoes and tracking in the house... and ruining your clothes... and staining your fingers... why the heck do I have that stuff? Reminds me I am almost out. LOL. Never herd of using that for the EM6000? Interesting. OK I take back the minus one as I did show Tirebond II in my picture.... But still plus one for the Everclear.. I am sure if I tried hard I could find more stuff.

Good call, but maybe you missed my hidden ace can of Gold Powder for gold tops in the center? My eye sight is not that good. But I cant top that one. I fold. Actually you beat me fair and square as I used the earth colors as a filler, they are not good enough to use in a finish only for coloring a glue. Now I have to put all this stuff away.

Hey what if you freeze dried the neck first, or dipped it in liquid nitrogen or cryogenicly froze it. That may destroy the wood fibers as well without the burning smell. Yes I am being sarcastic, but who knows it may be the next guitar neck upgrade. I mean if wood isn't good enough as just wood use another material like carbon fiber.

Why? Seems fine to me. Just drink some of that Everclear and you will not remember you dont have West Epoxy. I am discounting the Polyurethane -1 as a unsutable glue but added a +1 for the Everclear. Have you tried that in epoxy yet? **For the unknowing Everclear is a 199 Proof grain alcohol (almost pure corn alcohol) used for working with shellac or gulped straight from the bottle when your build goes south. It is actually illegal to sell it in some US states**

And I call adding some shellac flakes

For those who do not know, I have been making and selling fret benders to LMI for several years now. Buried somewhere in this classified list is an older bender. I upgraded the design a few months ago. As I do not sell these on the retail level I have offered a special deal to PG members. The new design is a bit more expensive to produce but is a better product overall with a blue anodized finish. The Price for PG members is $48 plus $10 shipped within the USA (Priority Mail 3 day). Internationally the shipping cost is $15, but the handle will be removed to reduce costs, The handle only takes a minute to reattach. Shipping time varies from several weeks to a month. Really depends on weather your customs service and/or countries post office cares. I do not ship to Asia, South America, Africa or the Baltic States. I do ship to Canada, Europe and Australia, and countries that fall in those general regions. Ask if you are not sure. The radius setting is adjusted by sliding one guide bearing in or out, As each fretwire size is different you will need to adjust the bearings distance for every wire size you use and for every radius you put on your fretboard. If you use only one size of wire and one fretboard radius you only need to adjust this position once. If you are interested you need to PM me dont post here or it may be days before I respond to questions. You will need a PayPal account so I can send you an invoice and get paid. No checks or money orders as I dont have time to go to my bank (Sorry). I need your country mentioned in the PM. Then I also need your PayPal email address. This is more of a courtesy to PG members, I will not get rich selling benders here... if you know what I mean. I do offer these in quantity to retailers if anyone is interested in selling benders on their web site (not on ebay sorry).