HuntinDoug

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I dont know anything about solid edge, But I do plenty of work in Rhino4. If you can email, or PM me a DXF file with an explanation, I may be able to fix it for you...

Nice clean volute

I recently bought one of these. Kind of pricy, but it works great! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tm7kTtZ9inU&feature=player_embedded

If you want to use the center line, thats fine. But, you need to stay on the center line. Make your measurement from the leading edge of the nut, to the center of the bridge. Place your bridge vector perpendicular to the center line. Using the center point of the high E stud as a fulcrum point. Rotate the the low E bridge stud counter clockwise until you add .125" to the length on the low E side... Although, It looks like the bridge vector is already adjusted in the pic. If that is the case, you can use a centerline that is your scale length + half of the offset: 25.5" + (.125/2) = 25.5625

Commonly, The measurement is from the leading edge of the nut, to the center of the "throw" on the high E saddle. Most TOM bridges have the studs centered in the bridge, so you can use that as well. Keep in mind, many guitar manufacturers add 1/8" to the scale length on the low E side. This makes the bridge look crooked. It is done this way for intonation purposes so there is sufficient throw: CAD it out so the bridge is parallel with the leading edge of the nut, and then offset the low E side by adding .125" to the scale length measurement.

Once you go Vac.. you'll never go back. Sorry... couldnt resist

This has been one of the most rewarding builds for me thus far. I built this guitar for my Brother-in-law for Christmas... Here is why: Nick is my wife's youngest brother. He's a guitar player. He has been away from home for the past 16+ years. He served multiple tours of duty in Iraq & Afghanistan. Not once have I heard him complain about it. The last time he was up for re-enlistment, he decided to go back to school to be a Doctor specializing in ER medicine. While he was in pre-med at Texas tech he met, and married his wife Christen. The have a young son, and twin boys on the way. Earlier this year he landed a 3 year residency at a local hospital. So, this is his first year back in town with his family. Anyone who knows a doc, knows that by the time they are done with school, they are in a mountain of debt. I wanted to do something special for him for Christmas. So, I got with the rest of the family who chipped in for the materials, and we built him this guitar. We started planning it back in Jan. My mother-in-law got his son Devin a matching toy acoustic. We gave it to him on Christmas eve... It was cool. Specs are: Parable "Paradox" model Alder body with "Carmel Burst" finish by My finishing guy Alexander Williamson Rock Maple neck with beeswax finish Bound Ziricote FB with MOP block inlays 12th fret "Brautigam" (Nicks last name) inlay Paua/Gold MOP/White MOP "Parable" logo on an ebony TR cover Low jumbo frets Oktober Blockhead humbuckers 1 piece TOM bridge Chrome Hardware Bone nut Schaller tuners

It's a mix: 8 oz bees wax .5 oz carnuba wax 4 oz boiled linseed oil 4 oz turpentine Melt the waxes in a double boiler, remove from heat, stir in the linseed oil, then turpentine. Let cool to a paste. Apply with a cotton rag, then buff. It gives a very nice satin smooth finish.

Well...It's been forever since I posted about a build. So, here goes: This one is for an endorsee named Tim Hawkins. I'm currently working on a motif build for him that is not going to be done anytime soon. So, I'm going to knock this one out so he has something to play. My delivery date is slated for Jan 19th Specs are: Parable "Paradox" model Alder relic'd gold top body Maple neck with beeswax finish Bound Ziricote FB with 12th fret "TH" logo inlay Ziricote headplate with paua "Parable" logo EVO gold jumbo semi-hemi frets 2 Seymour Duncan hums (coil tapped) 1 piece TOM bridge Gold Hardware I got a pretty good jump on it before Christmas. Here's some cell phone pics I took today: