JoeUK

Hi, Im no expert, but the TBX is a tone control only pot. It has a middle 'detent' - so turning 1 way cuts treble and the other cuts bass. I think what you need is a stacked concentric pot for neck and bridge vol - its like 2 pots on top of each other. Ive never used one, so I dont know where you can get one but I.m sure others can advise or you can goole concentric pot. Joe

Cheers Col. I like your idea of different magnet configs, so I'll build some flexibility into the driver to allow changes in magnet type, size etc.. Thanks again Joe

Cheers Col 1. Any good for the driver?

I remember someone mentioning the use of magnets from computer hard drives for the driver. I pulled an old hard drive apart and got 2 of these [url=http://s132.photobucket.com/albums/q21/ukaxer/?action=view&current=HDiskMagnets.jpg] bits of metal with the 2 'kidney shaped' magnets on each. I dont know what type of magnets they are, but they seem damn powerful - 1 set of magnets will move the other set from about 2" above, and when attracted together, it takes a fair amount of pulling to get apart. Q's 1. Any good for the driver? Bearing in mind Pete's warning about about trying to cut certain magnets - 2. can I prise them off the metal? 3. can the magnets be cut or shaped to better fit under the driver (without me spontaneuosly combusting)? 4.AM I barking up a gum tree? Ive also found some fridge magnets backed with the flexible magnetic strips and 3 small solid circular magnets (about 8mm across + 3mm deep), used for 'sticking' notes etc. to metal boards. Any of the above good for the driver + which would be more advisable? Cheers Joe

I see there's some differences between the Zepchilds and the Fangear Saville strat. Anyone know where I can access some pictures of the original saville strat from that night (if they exist). I was going to do a refin to look like a 62 strat (aged but not reiced), but maybe I should do a saville strat, which be appropriate cause... I was there in the Saville theatre that night and from memory (you know what they say about the sixties), Jimi did'nt burn this one - just busted it up against his amps (roadie behind supporting it) and threw the bits out to the audience. Interestingly - Jimi had finished his set using a black strat I think, and as the crowd howled for encore's I'm sure the show presenter (some dj of the time), walked out and announced as this was Jimi's last gig in the uk before going to the US they presented the saville strat to him which he used for 2 or 3 songs before busting it up at the end of wild thing. I'd assumed someone else had done the paintwork but I dont know, it could have been Jimi and the ' presentation thing' was just a bit of theatre. Joe

I dont know if youve already seen it, but there's a swirl technique in the tutorials section.. with pics. which is allways helpful. Joe

Thats right - both companies produced (+ still do) resonator guitars but with a slightly different looking design. Also national are more famous for the metal bodied ones + dobro for the wooden bodies. you can buy resonator kits in either dobro or national style - the difference is mostly cosmetic. Joe

I converted and old 3/4 scale acoustic a couple of years ago. I choose the national style reso kit so some bits may be different for the dobro kit The biggest problem for me was the scale length (length between the nut and bridge). You need to ensure there's enough body length in the acoustic so that the resonator bridge (under the chrome cover an sits on the cente of the cone) end up at the same distance/position as your current bridge, otherwise when/if playing normal guitar, notes will not stay in tune as you move up the fretboard. And obviously you need enough body to fix the the cone, chrome cover and tailpiece at that position. I got round this cause I wanted to change the freboard anyway - and used an ebony blank and fretted it to suit the new scale length. Hopefully on a full scale acoustic you shouldnt encounter this prob - but measure up just to make sure. I measured + took off the old bridge and cut out the circle for the resonator cone and cut a smaller circle from the scrap to fill in the normal acoustic soundhole. You have to use wood filler or epoxy to fill in any gaps so you'll never have a perfect looking wood top unless your very skillful + lucky or do as I did - painted all the body (+ neck) with a solid colour (Mine's gloss black). You need to build a soundwell in the body which is a round wooden frame which supports the resonator cone. I made mine with 2 scraps of hardwood jigsawed and routed with the correct dimensions to support the cone at the correct height - being 2 pieces made it easier to fit them through the hole then glue into position. The soundwell height is critical - it has to support the cone edges inside the body but the top of the cone which supports the biscuit bridge (on nationals), has to be just above the guitar body so that with the bridge is in position the strings are not too low or high above the fretboard. As I said before - these points are for a national reso conversion - they may not all apply to a dobro conversion. Here's another stewmac link for building a resonator which may give you more info. resonater kit instructions. http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/i-5290/i-5290.pdf Joe

OK Tim's just beaten me to it, but here's my pennyworth. Ive been browsing this thread for the last few months and agree with zfrittz's and Davids requests for some structure to make the sustainer info and development easier to navigate and understand. I'd suggest a structure along these lines. TITLE: DIY sustainer system - One Thread ro rule them all. quick simple description of what is being developed i.e. a DIY sustainer system with similar sonic capabilities to the Sustainiac, Fernandez sustainer systems. Using ONBOARD Battery driven DIY DRIVER, fetzer-ruby, cols , zfrittz's etc. AMP. (Ideally each word in CAPS should be a link to a simple description thread to help the complete novice understand the terminology being used) and what is NOT being developed but may be discussed +/or referenced i.e. Variax, Ebow, Hex/midi etc. an Index with simple descriptions.(again those in CAPs are links to seperate threads). i.e. DESIGN: i.e. new/changed driver, preamp/amp-components. shielding etc. being discussed/considered BUT not currently built or in development. IN DEVELOPMENT:different - drivers - neck position, middle position, bar type, pole type, shielding- foils, cans, reverse winding etc. Amps - different IC types, resistors. caps etc. with Materials, components, schematics and wiring design changes. Also the Dev results need tracking with description + sound clips. i.e. neck driver with bridge HB/single coil, Low, Mid + High vols with clean (no effects) + possibly with named effects.Ideally first a standard 'test' tune should be used by all with chords and single notes (we could make a simple one up), before allowing the individual to do tharownthang. It would be an overhead but a good idea, if results were copied by at least one other forum member using the same type of driver, amp etc and submitting at least the 'standard test' sound clips to ensure an idividuals type of guitar, amp or recording were not a factor in the results. PRODUCTION: This could just be a statement of the currently accepted working diy sustainer system(s) with known working driver(s), amps etc. with links to:- TUTORIALS: Drivers Construction Bar type, Pole type, shielding. Amps + schematics and wiring designs. Tim's comments and lists certainly nails these. Hopefully a structure along these lines would help all looking for sustainer enlightenment. Happy New Year to one and all Joe

Thanks Modman Joe

Cheers Boys, I thought not, but best to ask. Thanks again Joe

Hi and happy christmas to all. Quick shielding question. Is there any benefits id shielding a strat trem cavity ?? I've shielded the control cav, but just thought I'd ask before I finish. I've searched on the forum and the web, but cant dind anything definite. Cheers Joe

Thanks Ansil - thou art a scholar and a gentleman. If you need any more info on the GK3, PM me and I'll see if Ive got anything useful. Cheers Joe