Rodney

I got a few necks from Doug and i'll definetly be getting more. The necks are fantastic and he worked in every nitpick detail i wanted!

Good replies again gentlemen. Let me toss a few ideas in the mix and play devils advocate a bit. Since there's some disagreement with Southpa's suggestion on splines sighting the break of the glue joint, wouldn't a backstrap be doing technically the same thing since you would be routing into the new joint? Also, with the largest chipout being on the side where the backstrap wouldn't reach, do you think the relatively small area in the center of the neck where the backstrap starts would offer enough compensation? The backstrap can't be too deep as it's a slim neck. Here's an approach i haven't seen on the forum, what do you guys think of it? http://www.caramedia.com/guitars/gretsch.asp Good stuff guys.

Good notes guys. i'll fill in a bit of info for you. The reason i'm not showing the whole guitar is I want the reveal to be a suprise on completion and i'm doing in process. 1. The guitar is mine, not for a customer. 2. It's a neck through and not a cheap one by any stretch. 3. It will be refinished completely. I had thought about doing just the neck and blending, but the electronics layout will be modified as well so she's gonna get the full treatment. 4. The crack isn't a worry. The previous owner left the rod as is when it broke. It's been at mid tension for quite a while and hasn't spread. Also the crack doesn't go through to the truss rod cavity. It's less than an eigth deep and looks worse in the pic than it is.

I've already set up how I want to do this, but thought it might be fun to open it up to my esteemed peers of the forum. What we have is a broken headstock from a mahogany neck with no scarf joint. Here's the patient. The one advantage is that the head has a pretty thick faceplate veneer that remained intact giving a front face to the break. It also lets the neck slide into the headstock like a pen top. The downside is there's some chipout at the break line. So, any thoughts or opinions. I'd be interested to hear how you guys would take it on as i'm always impressed by the number of smart solutions i see on the forum. Have at it!

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm gonna be doing a black burst, so the color coat is what i'm most concerned about.

What about color coats.

I was wondering what paints / primers people who have used rustins have had good compatability with. Any help is appreciated.

Thank you sir, much appreciated

Amazing pickups. Got 2 sets for when I was getting a custom built, the second guitar never happened. Bought as a calibrated set from Bare Knuckle Steve Stevens Rebel Yell Set - Bare Knuckle Pickups - Pickups - LuxxTone Paid 330.00. they are in excellent shape, includes the box. 6 string set. Looking for 250.00 shipped.

I don't get to hang here as often as I'd like, but I remember him and his always helpful and insightfull comments. All my best to the familiy n they're time of grief. God Bless.

Mahogany doesn't stain as well as maple. It would be easier to use a yellow toner to even her up.

Excellent Mike. Really nice work. Congrats

Very nice! How long till she's setup and ready to play?

Very cool. Definetly alot more process than what I'm used to. How are you gonna finish her? Rattle can or do you have a spray setup?

Glad to be of service, but the hard part was on you! Tape, huh? Back in the day we did it and used the high part of the lip as a feel guide for the fingers and the rag. Suprisingly a binding was rarely ever ruined. When I would train people it seemed like the tape made them over confident and they would bear down on the edge more than they should and the stain would soak under. Plus it added alot of time to the prep. Gotta get those numbers!! Looks like you had no such problem, and Myka's stuf is amazing so as the saying goes, more than one way to skin a cat. So you sand and scrape? Fill me in on the scrape if you don't mind, I'm always interested in other people's techniques. again, really nice, you should be proud.