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SRV_ROCKS

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Everything posted by SRV_ROCKS

  1. I see what your saying but i think it's just my uncanny ability to be very cautious with my money because where me and my parents grew up.
  2. I only thought that it would be ridiculous if he actually paid $500-$600 for it. If he paid $290 then thats good for him, i just didn't know if fender basses would depreciate value. I was misled, thats for correcting that.
  3. Ok, so a kid from my school recently bought a 2006 Fender P Bass Deluxe (even though he never played bass before). It's his first bass which i think is sort of ridiculous for a beginner, but thats just me. Well, He says he got it "used but in new condition" (thats his exact quote) for only $290. But the biggest problem is that he bought it from guitar center (probably the biggest rip-off store ever). My question is, does a p-bass like this depreciate in value THAT much or is he lying about the condition? ( I don't know anything about basses). He says its in great condition but i think for that price, it would be kinda crappy. Here's the musician's friend link for reference: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Fen...ass-?sku=515201
  4. if i had to pick one power tool to do an entire build, it would be the router; i have six of them now (4 always in use) besides shaping the back of the neck, i cant think of one major part that the router makes easier! I see what your saying but I only did refinishes till this. When I get more into the whole guitar building scene, I definitely will buy some more expensive attachments for my router.
  5. i guess your named logical frank for a reason ...i never thought of that. Thanks man
  6. Rick500, i like the idea of the washer but i don't have that much skill to cut stuff out freehand afterwards. and thanks Quarter for that ebay store, it might just be easier to just buy one online than to drive all over. Edit: thanks maiden, but i'm just gonna go for a cheaper solution cause i don't use my router that much.
  7. low end fuzz, i see what you're saying about the tape being soft and maybe coming undone. That being said, I might just call around to some different places to see what they have in stock. I'll most likely skip the tape and go with a bigger bearing.
  8. I would have, but the sears and home depot near me don't carry anything over 1/2" bearings and that's what I have now.
  9. I have a template of a strat copy and wanted to increase the body size. I'm a big guy and just need a bigger size body, kinda like buckethead did with his Jackson. Anyway, i wanted to know if you can roll masking tape around a router bit bearing to increase its distance from the body. I vaguely remember seeing something like that a while back on some website and wanted to know if its possible. Thanks ahead of time.
  10. Just bumping this up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  11. A friend of mine recently drew up some ML plans for me and I'm just wondering how accurate he was. If Somebody has a Dean ML , could you take some of your time to measure the 3 different lengths I have in my picture. It can either be Metric or Customary, I'll just convert. Thanks ahead of time. http://s199.photobucket.com/albums/aa143/S...MEASURMENTS.jpg
  12. I'll probably just go with the Floyd nut because I care more about the tuning than the looks of it. Thanks for all the help guys.
  13. I'm planning my next build and was wondering if you could use a regular bone or brass nut (les paul style) with a floyd rose fastloader system. The tremolo will sit on the top of the body, not recessed or unblocked. I also thought of using a roller nut of some sort ( http://www.guitarbuilder.org/Fender-SLR-Roller-nut.gif ). The reason is that I never liked the looks of a floyd rose nut and just wanted to see if any other type would work.
  14. In my experiance, the guitar center around me hires the shadiest looking characters. They always have to sweep your credit card twice for some reason (an open window for identity theft it seems). If I ever go there, it's just for strings or sticks (I'm mainly a drummer), and I always pay cash.
  15. I think his sig might be about Steve Vai's DNA guitar, but thats just my guess. Great work on that guitar rack btw.
  16. Yea I definitely think I can do a solid repair job cause the tenon is still all there (You could call it a clean break). I think i might just combine both ideas of Cherry Red and the black burst all around it.
  17. I was able to purchase a gibson sg faded special off of ebay for about $280. It was a good deal considering it had all the hardware and electronics that worked. You can see from the pic that the wood around the neck pocket came off with the tenon in the break but i was able to use some of the fretboard removal technique to get it off clean. A piece of wood was missing from the upper part of the neck joint (I think its the bass side?). I just routed it out to make a clean slot and now have a piece of mahogany to cut and match for it. The headstock just slid back in and had an excellent amount of surface area to just be reglued. I plan to use some reinforcing strips of oak or mahogany at the headstock to give it more strength and give it a fade black paint job with still keeping the heritage cherry stain. I might even do some black fade around the horns and neck/body joint to hide the difference in the shades of mahogany. Let me know what you think of the paint scheme or if you have and good ideas.
  18. Thanks MIKro, i knew about the resistor but i just didn't include it in the post(my bad) but i just need to know what kind of switch to use.
  19. I just need to know what kind of On/Off switch i could use to power a small series of led lights with a 9v battery. I don't know much about this but if anyone has done a small project like this before please let me know what you used. Thanks
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