Slaughthammer

i would move the neck nearer to the top horn. now it looks some kind of unbalanced, because of the big space between the top horn and the neck. but i like the design!!

AAAHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!! cant stop looking at this. my phantasy is going wild, i see e super strat, then i see a les paul, then i see a warlock.... so many things you can do with this... and the fretboard looks also great, especially in combination with these woods... i love it!!!!!!

any progress so far?

after 4 years of playing electric guitar, my Cort Stature Gold ist still my only electric, i just modified it with a kahler trem and a duncan humbucker. i don't think, i will ever stop playing it.

if you want to go go for an archtop and a TOM-bridge, you will need a neck angle. but this can also be done on a neck thru. yuo just have to glue the wings angled to the neck. might sound easier than it acually is, but it is possible, and i think lichfield did this, though i don't know how it came out.

if you want to play mellower music, you always could tune down 3-5 half steps.... should give any guitar a real mollow sound but in general, dave's argumentation seems logical to me btw, does anyone know how chambering for weight reduction affects the tone of a guitar? just curious....

you wuold have to make the neck pocket larger or the heel of the neck thinner. you would have to install a new bridge. with a TOM not that hard to do you would have to make the pickup routs lager to fit 7-string-pickups you'd pobably have refinish the whoe body. why do you want to do this? also, i don't think you'll be happy with the result. the cutaways are made for a 6-string neck and not for a 7-string. otherwise, you could make a cut through the hole body at the center line and set a piece of wood in the middle, so the neck pocket gets wider and the neck would fit it.... but i would rather build a new guitar

the scale length is 632,6mm which would make 1 cm more than 24 3/4". i think i can handle it. question: why should the scale length be unsuitad/what would an unsuited scale length be? no, the middle part is definitive a different wood. it's not very straight-grained, but it is quarter sawn. the new frets are now in, but i ahve to wait for a dremel to arrive (hopefully tomorrow) and then i will trim the frets to the proper length and post more pics

you can't just mount it on the fretboard, due to the fact, that the base is not radiused and you action woult be 3-4 mm in the first fret, depending on the frets you use. generally it's better to mount it to deep (?) and shim it if the first fret buzzes. order it and you will see how to install it. it's not that hard.

agreed. that would look awsome. () an it would rock. ()

so i started my first guitar built. i have a neck from an old acustic guitar that sorryly was destroyd when falling down... but the neck survived, and so i will use it as my first training object its gonna be a 12-string rhoads V with the ESP Alexi Laiho sig. body shape and also just one humbucker and one volume pot the frets of the neck were not in a good condition, already popping out of the fretboard, so i'll do a refret job as a first step here are the pics: http://fullservesite.com/slaughthammer/gui...964_IMG_LOW.jpg http://fullservesite.com/slaughthammer/gui...965_IMG_LOW.jpg http://fullservesite.com/slaughthammer/gui...966_IMG_LOW.jpg http://fullservesite.com/slaughthammer/gui...967_IMG_LOW.jpg http://fullservesite.com/slaughthammer/gui...968_IMG_LOW.jpg and a pic of the back http://fullservesite.com/slaughthammer/gui...971_IMG_LOW.jpg i thik the heel has to be reshaped, i will se what i can do here does anyone know, what kinds of wood were used here? i think, the outer laminates are mahagony, but what is the middle laminate? i also heaven't decieded on the body wood, but as this is only for training, i will search and get what i can get locally and cheap. maybe pine. feel free to ask anything i didn't mention (which might be a lot) so good night so far...

i have replaced a roller nut by a schaller locking nut, and yes, the string breaking point is 3 mm of. added 3 mm wood and i was fine, intonates well now, so all you'll have to do is shorten the first fret by 3 mm... the rest is the same as top insalling a locking nut

sorry for OT, but what happened to the "The Cult of Flame" project? is it dead? or even worse, WODed? or is it also in the junk pile *hopeing*?

playing chords will be harder, lower action possible because you don't come in trouble with the radius when bending.

I allready thought that it would be near impossible... i just wanted to go shure. so i'll have to make a cut, where the armrest begins, and not bend it.

i live for about where the Netherlands, Germany and the north sea meet, this region is called Ostfriesland, and the next german exotic wood supplier is in hamburg which is even more then 200 km from my point. but i just heard that someone here in my town is a real wood-fanat and that he can get almost any kind of wood for an acceptable price, so i'll try... working with exotic woods is not very popular here. i'm not gonna start this project before next summer, when i finished school, so i can take my time to organize the stuff etc...

thanks! i just figured that this store is for about 200 km from me.... maybe i'll give them a visit does anybody know if you can bend a 1/4" ebony top around an armrest?

you could build the whole guitar to the 25.5 scale, which would mean, not only rise the scale lenght. built the whole guitar bigger, than you will have no problems... the scale for this would be 25.5/24.75 which actually is 1.030303.... well, thats not pretty much... the whole guitar will be only 3% bigger than an original Les Paul, so i don't think this will be a problem at all...

according to rampguitars mahagony has more highs and fewer bass than limba/korina which i would call brighter as for my location, I live in the north-west of germany, close to the netherlands, but with europe i maynly mean in the EU, because, if i order in the US or anywhere else out of the EU i will have to pay taxes or fees, don't know what exactly it's called...

that sounds good... i also thought on doing a kind of "super les paul" on my the ebony topped guitar. did you think of slightly changeing the outline which will be important for an acceptable upper fret acces, as Les Pauls ust to have only 22 frets. i would suggest on sarpening the edge of the cutaway to make it a true super les paul, as super strats also have sharper edges....

first, thanks for your oppinions!! as for the duncans, i thought of a pair SH-6's distortion pickups. i use it now in my strat (agathis body maple neck) an i get a very nice metal suited tone out of it, though, they are not the brightest pickups, but i like 'em. and i don't think, it will be to bright with the ebony top as for the wings, i will use that guitar for any other kind of music, so i need it as versatile as possible. but the metal sound wil be most important. will it be more versatile with alder wings? maybe mahagony wings will be a good compromise? and does any of you know a good source for these woods in europe? oh, and is it possible to bend a 1/4" ebony top around an armrest?

i have come up with this wood combination for a 7-string solidbody: 5-piece laminated neck thru maple/purplrheart/maple/purpleheart/maple black limba wings topped with 1/4" ebony and also ebony for the fretboard for the hardware i would go with an ibanez lo pro and seymour duncan pickups would this prouce any kind of tone suitable for metal/shred? has any of you experience with ebony tops?

how have you done the carving on the cutaways? the edge is quite sharp.... I like it a lot, and you really inspire me to build a guitar, laminated neck thru WITHOUT top

nice work, though i don't like traditional guitars very much, yours are great wich duncan pickups do you use in your guitars? @daveq: AFAIK hunsuy uses nitrocellulose laquer and a brush to finnish his guitars

did you think abaout a wrap around bridge? it might look good on this guitar...