Rick500

If you're thinking about chucking a sanding drum into a router, no, that's a very bad idea.

Just a quick thought: You could probably use an electronic stud finder to find where the truss rod ends.

Several people here have built them. Mine's on this page.

Yep, good point, Kenny. I bought my sanding block before I realized I could have just made a sled for my radiusing jig and made it myself.

Everyone will have a different way that works best for them. You specifically asked about something to put the crown back on the frets. The double-sided fret file I mentioned does that. Each of the two edges of the file has a different sized semi-circular profile.

Looks good to me.

Fret press arbor and caul -- not essential Fret bender -- need something to do this job... the one I used was a DIY version (I have a "real" one now, but the old one was adequate) Fret end dressing stick -- not essential Fret leveling file -- not essential, but need something that will do this job 6" Fretboard leveler -- not essential 6" Fingerboard leveler -- not essential, but if I were to buy just one non-essential tool on this list, this would probably be the one Double edge fret file -- need something to do this job... some sort of file, and I really like this one Fret end dressing file -- need something to do this job, some sort of file... and this one is nice because there's a rounded edge that won't mar the fretboard .023" kerf Dozuki saw (for fret slots) -- unless you're going to get a preslotted board, you need a fret saw. I used Stew-Mac's saw first, but it didn't cut well for me. This one is 10 times better, IMO. Spokeshave -- not strictly speaking essential, but I would not build a neck without one. You could do it with just rasps though. Router fretboard radius jig -- not essential, you can do the whole job with a (preferably 16" long) radius sanding block Fret saw miter box & 25" template -- not essential, but it makes life a lot easier. You could cobble something together on your own that would serve as a miter box. 16" long, 12"-radius sanding block -- I'd say essential. Substitute your radius of choice. And a good flat-edge.

If you consider tools used building the fretboard and fretting as well, I built my last one with: Jointer Planer Band saw Half of an old credit card (glue spreader) Lots o' clamps Router Rasps Spokeshave Drill press Router fretboard radius jig Oscillating spindle/belt sander Random orbit sander 16" long, 12"-radius sanding block Fret cutter Fret press arbor and caul Fret bender Fret end dressing stick (strip-of-sandpaper-on-a-stick) Fret leveling file 6" Fretboard leveler 6" Fingerboard leveler (this is great for taking the sides of the fretboard down to flush w/ the neck, also for taking inlay down to level with the fretboard) Double edge fret file Fret end dressing file Nut slot file .023" kerf Dozuki saw (for fret slots) Fret saw miter box & 25" template ...that said, you don't need all that stuff. In fact, you're probably better off starting to build one without all the convenience tools -- you'll find soon enough which ones of those are worth it to you to buy.

I like the little "swoop" shape of the back of the neck pocket.

I don't know, I think it's worth a try with Tru-oil. Unlike a lot of oil finishes, it does build on top of the wood in addition to soaking into it.

Had me going for a couple of sentences there.

I'm not sure if it would work with Tru-oil or not. Seems to me like it probably would, but some testing would be in order. The general idea most definitely works, though. I have a few guitars that have a "natural binding effect" created by having masked off the edge of the maple top and leaving it uncolored, just cleared over, while the top and the rest of the sides are stained.

+1 on Wez's advice.

I've done what Mitch mentions, to a koa guitar body, and it worked great. I used the corner of a damp towel, and an iron (laundry type, not soldering).

Hard to say without knowing what body shape is going with it. Out of those 6, and without knowing what the whole guitar is going to look like, I'd have to pick C.

I use Stew-Mac's miter box and steel template, and LMI's Dozuki fret saw. I radius the board first (with a router jig), then cut the slots, then rough cut the taper on the band saw, then apply the fretboard to the neck and take it down to near final dimensions.

Very cool! Is that the machine that cut my headstock logos? Very impressive. Now I want one.

I really love the look that the black veneer gives it. I need to use that in one of my builds. Is that colored veneer, or one of those pressed fiber products?

David Andrew Crusader/Bladerunner

I think it'd look better a little more smoothed-out/rounded. Looking great though!

Agreed. You can always use ferrules for the neck bolts, with no neck plate.

You'll get the feel for it pretty quickly. Just practice for a few minutes on some scrap.

I really don't think the nearest 1/32" is going to be close enough.

Looks really great. Love the back of the neck.

Cavities are probably shaped that way because it was easier to drill four big holes than haul out the router.