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modman

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    bxl, belgium

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  1. and they are not installed out of phase? did you respect neck mid and bridge position? that's the only other thing I could think of. did you ever hear those pickups in the Kramer? Maybe the type of wood and other physical characteristics justify such pickups, but still? How many ohms do they measure? j
  2. you mean you severed the lead from the coil. nothing left but to find the loose coil end and somehow tying them together again.
  3. Here are some more samples of the basic circuit. I did install a master volume, so I was able to max out the gain. The three different samples are with full gain, at different bias voltages: 3,5V 4,8V and 6V. They're on putstuff, so you'll have to click three times to get the file Download Germaniacbias3_5.mp3 Download Germaniacbias4_8.mp3 Download germaniacbias6.mp3 j
  4. I installed such a treble bleed cap in a mustang recently, you can see to box type red cap with the resistor across it on the to to the right (vol).
  5. The treble bleed cap is not part of Fender traditional wiring. But that is no reason to NOT HAVE it. This cap makes sure you retain the high frequencies when you roll back the volume. If most players always leave their vol on 10 this is the reason. You could add a 150k resistor or so in parallel with the cap to ensure its working across the enitre taper. If you still keep your volume on 10, there is still no reason to remove the cap, at vol 10 the cap and the whole volume pot are out of the circuit. hope this helps modman
  6. This the great Tim Escobedo's site: the circuit snippets are a hidden page not linked to from his homepage. More crazy, non electronic projects by him are here http://www.geocities.com/tpe123/folkurban/
  7. The tone control was introduced to avoid old guitar from sounding to shrill. No matter what the diagram says, there's also the potentiometer in your tone control. When you're tone controls at 10, the resistance on the pot should be 0 ohm, so all the sound goes straight through the pot, and doesn't pass through the cap. Tone at 10 is like there is no tone control in the circuit. In still other words, tone controls throw away highs. So change to a larger cap won't help at all. There's something else going on....
  8. Of course, I was just stuck in my head with the problems inherent in negative ground Fuzz Faces (oscillations etc). Probably in this design you won't have that problem using PNP on negative ground. Will try it myself once I some time later today. Damn, you really woke me up. thanks Have so many PNPs that I put aside because of this issue, should have tried really.
  9. hi there, AC128 is a PNP transistor, I used a NPN in my setup, because PNP uses positive ground. This means: if you use a PNP transistor, you'll have to connect the ground where the +9V now is and you will have to turn the electrolyte C3 around. Positive side of that cap touching postive ground It's a boosted overdrive and R1 determines the voltage on the collector. Optimum operation for the transistor is 4.5V but putting it higher will result in dirtier sounds still. mm EDIT: I finally made some decent soundclips with my BF Super Reverb. Recorded with SM58 mike, no processing. Clean setup: Strat's neck PU, Texas Special Download GermaniacClean.mp3 Boosted: Gradually turning the gain up, it turns out that it clean boosts and distorts at the end of the taper. Before the final riffs you can hear me putting the mike back a bit Download Germaniacboosted.mp3
  10. wow i would have expected that at least somebody would say something. I did make a very low res vid of the basic circuit in action. but will be cleaning it out with a tone control and more soon
  11. -the resistant carbon material that determines the resistance on the vol pot, has worn off and there is no contact towards the guitar jack. -the postive lead is touching the ground lead and thus it's shorting out like this: take a spare input jack, wire the positive side of the pu to the tip of the jack, the ground to the sleeve of the jack. You could use alligator clips for this. Then a cable to the amp, turn it on. Then tap the pickup with a screwdriver. both can do, all depends on the number of turns on your tuning machines. if too few, you will not be able to lift it high enough. hope this helps
  12. http://www.vacuumtube.com/VTV%20Ultratonecaps.htm even more expensive, thus better? Samba, I don't think you can compare a psu function to that of a cap. You better make sure to have a stable powersupply otherwise you'll fry the microelectronics out completely. 0 at tonepot means highest resistance on the pot, thus more signal passing through the cap to ground. You cannot add anything in a passive circuit. Removing the tone pot is like having it on 10 all the time. Idem ditto for the Varitone you select caps to ground, but maybe you could just jumpwire the lthe most trebly position, ie taking any cap out of the circuit. Do you have sources for that 33H coil in the varitone. mm
  13. Remember that a capacitor in your tone controls determined how much TREBLE you throw away. It doesn't add anything at all. Don't understand what they mean with "rolled back" at all. To test the cap, you should keep your tone control as low as possible. That's the cap in full action. Remember that the real old strats or lp's had a CERAMIC disk and the negative characteristic noted above "harsh and piercing" seem interesting but how can a guitar sound like that with a cap in the circuit. a cap is a cap and what it does is in the first place determined by the actual value, which you can measure if you have a meter with capacitance setting. Better to invest in one of these first (only the price of a handful of magic caps
  14. This is very likely the cause. The metal ungrounded or improperly grounded elements pickup up noise because of the physical construction. If they are not grounded, this noise and RF interference will creep into your signal. If you touch the switch, it's not only the switch that is acting as an antenna to pick up noise, your body as well
  15. All you need to understand any switch is a multimeter. 1) Put your multimeter on the lowest resistance settings (20ohms?) 2) Put your switch in first position 3) Hold one probe to the first tab and the other in turn to the other. 4) Note with which lugs contact is made in this position. If your read 0 ohms between the lugs, there is contact. If not there is no connection. 5) Do this for all the lugs, then you know how the switch connects. grtz zj
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