McInnis

I'm replacing the pickups in my Epiphone Sheraton II. Anyone know the best way to remove/replace existing electronics through that tiny F-hole access? I'm swapping out both pickups, the volume and tone pots and the (worthless) 3-way pickup selector. Not sure how this is done at the factory, at a repair shop, and especially not at my "luthier's bench...," as it were.

Krazy, Oh, absolutely! I use Porter Cable hand (power) tools exclusively. They're extremely well made, will last a lifetime, incorporate very little plastic (if any) and make up the most common brand name you'll see on Norm Abraham's "New Yankee Workshop!" (Norm uses only the best, but don't use his woodworking as an example of fine craftsmanship - different subject, different forum.) In all seriousness, you'll pay 10 - 20% more for the PC name, but you get a tool that's twice the quality of their competition. The Speed-O-Matic router is a perfect example - nobody comes close to matching their quality on heavy-duty routers... I own 3 today and have owned at least half a dozen in the past, so I speak from experience. Please let me know if I can be of further assist... I'll look at your tutorial in earnest tomorrow eve (getting late - big day tomorrow) and will let you know if I think of anything else pertinent to the cause. Larry

While you eat... you're a mad-man. Of course, I'm into my 3rd Martini, so take whatever I say (from here on out) with a grain of salt (and an olive)... Quote me on price? No - bought mine about 4 years ago - haven't looked back, especially at prices. I could retire on what I've spent on power tools over the years. BUT, I'd be interested to know if you find out what they cost (If you need a quote I can get you one - but I need some time, week or so). Larry

William Cumpiano gives a great explanation on carving a neck in "GUITARMAKING: Tradition and Technology." He recommends a 1 inch chisel (VERY SHARP), then moving to a spokeshave/drawknife and eventually files and sandpaper. I was able to carve a Mahogany neck using only a (sharp) 1" chisel and sandpaper. Final product was excellent, all owing to Cumpiano's excellent drawings and descriptions. The book focuses on building an acoustic guitar - but much of the info transposes to electrics if you're doing your own necks and fretwork. If you're new to chisel work I recommend wearing a Kevlar glove (on the hand NOT holding the chisel - these gloves will prevent the business end from penetrating your skin (a bruise is better than a slice!)). My brother put a 1" chisel all the way through his hand with very little effort, severing numerous veins and nerves. Two surgeries and a couple month's worth of re-hab and he's as good as new - minus those dead spots where the nerves never re-connected. Hope this helps... Larry

If you can afford it, I recommend a large (15 + lbs) Porter Cable (PC) Speed- O-Matic. This is a 5-speed router that allows you to slow down (significantly) the bit speed, reducing burning dramatically, not to mention chip-out due to wood-grain irregularities, and a lower speed is easier to handle. PC equipment isn't cheap but it's well worth the investment (kind of a third-generation tool - first you buy your Craftsman's, then you upgrade to Makita or Freud, finally you break down and buy what you really want/need - professional grade tools - better to skip the beginning and intermediate steps/cost). Think I paid $350.00 for mine; however, it's made all the difference in world with both cabinetry and guitar projects. Freud also makes a 3.5 horsepower 5-speed router (with plunge capability) for considerably less, if money is a factor. Can't stress enough pre-drilling your pockets - if you have access to a drill press - stick a 1/2 or 3/4 inch forstner bit in it and "hog out" as much wood as possible - your route can then be done in one pass/one depth-of-cut, and you won't burn the wood or your bit (or throw the piece across the room, as 3.5 hrs-pwr routers have been known to do!!). (Personally, I pre-drill my pockets and then used a 1/2 inch japanese chisel to square and clean them out - but hey, I'm a fanatic about wood-working that way!) Great tutorial - especially the focus on safety. Ever seen a shirt sleave (or any other material) get caught in a router spinning at 3600 RPMs? Not a pretty sight. Look forward to the finished product; hope this helps, Larry

42, and feeling every minute of it.... When can I retire?

Also look at Bill Lawrence (www.billlawrence.com); he makes some nice P-90-ish pup's, in a close replica (tonally speaking) or a cleaned up version. Several other single and hummer's to choose from - all free of single-coil noise. Hope this helps...

Found this site when considering building a 1X12 "detuned" cabinet extension (see sight for definition of Detuned). Excellent examples of cabinets and construction design. FWIW.... http://www.vintone.com/index.html

Just found this site yesterday - Excellent resource... where was it a year ago when I started my first solid-body...??? I've been playing off & on since high-school (20-odd yrs, sad to say); about 4 years ago I made an acoustic OOO model (Martin look-alike), with mixed results. Last year I put together a solid-body with much better results. I love playing this thing. It needs a head-stock reshaping (due this Dec/Jan) and a logo (thanks to Tutorials, I now know how to do a custom Logo). My primary interest in building is furniture, but I can offer some interesting shortcuts/tips on how I put this guitar together, including an interesting wiring setup (notice no pickup selectors...?). The shortcoming on this model is the finish, but I'll be readdressing that in conjunction with the headstock reshaping next month - thanks, again, to the tutorials on this site (StewMac's guidelines on applying translucent lacquer finish). Once I figure out how to post it, I'll put a photo on for review/comment. Good to be aboard and I look forward to a prosperous learning experience with all. Larry