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Everything posted by Hector

  1. hey blackdog, nice build as usual. are you sure that you have enough area in the bottom side of the neck pocket for a glued neck? by the way, incredible design. i like it a lot!
  2. hey there. it seems your gluing end grain there. you should've cut the extra piece with the grain going the same direction as the body, not only the joint would be stronger but the end result would be a lot nicer, with an almost invisible joint.
  3. I have 2 prs and I think its normal plastic. I might be wrong.
  4. hey space cowboy, if you really want to use that neck to make a cigar box guitar, you can remove the fretboard, shorten the neck and this way you wont need a big box. otherwise, you better do some planning, figure out where your bridge will go, measure the scale length. I am sure you will be fine, and I encourage you to build the guitar, but do some planning first. think and measure twice before you cut it. there's lots of good info here on PG. read lots of stuff and learn all you can. i don't mean to be rude, im having a hard time writting in english, and I hope you don't misunderstand me. have fun with your build.
  5. Scale length. cigar box guitars have short scale length. that's all. since your neck is already shaped I assumed that you're not cutting it and not reducing the scale length. if you plan to use the neck as it is now, you're gonna need a big body so that you can place the bridge where it needs to be and the guitar can intonate properly. so, unless you're removing the fretboard, getting another one with a shorter scale length, gluing it. cutting the neck to be shorter and making another kind of neck joint you're gonna need a big box.
  6. why is there a huge gap on the top? are the pieces not jointed yet? if they are, and there is indeed a gap, you can route a line in the top and place a strip of some other wood, to hide the gap.
  7. very cool I wasn't sure about the design. but after looking at it for a few seconds, I really like it. unique!
  8. I think the bridge you got needs a neck angle. you should check that to see if it will work for you. great work, but I would redesign to headstock. draw lines to simulate the strings.
  9. The name of the white edging is binding. you're right about the wood shown on the sides, routed. and the wood for the top and back are carved that way, not steam bent. im also trying to figure out how they did the wiring...
  10. I use mine a lot, and its one of my favorite tools in the shop. keep it sharp and go slow (feeding). you'll get very clean results. one tip to get less tearouts is to plane the edges of the piece feeding them in the same direction of the rotation. then after you get the edges down, you can go against the rotation of the planer.
  11. the crack on the top may be the result of low humidity, all the other stuff you mentioned is caused by the string tension. and humidity will always be entering and leaving wood. no matter how old it is. if you place the guitar in a moist place, the top crack may get its edges closer together, but it will not fix the problem. you need to fill this gap with a little strip of spruce.
  12. I'm all about recycling, and can't look away from free good usable wood. maybe that's just me, but it makes me feel good.
  13. that's a lot of glue! i just hope the channel you routed isn't filled with glue now. always nice to see someone other than myself using a 4 piece top. about storing, i always leave the pieces standing up, or hanging from some wire to make sure that the air is moving evenly on both sides of the wood.
  14. i like the design. just be careful with the horns, especially the upper one. where your strap will be. it can snap due to short grain on that tip. nice work
  15. I used fish crates to get bracewood. nice german spruce, dry as a bone (because of the salt), you just have chase the quartersawn over the boards.
  16. with some woods we can't be so picky about using quartersawn stuff. some are just hard to find. I prefer 1/4 sawn, but I've seen some nice guitars with flatsawn backs and sides. for the tops, I never use anything other than quartersawn wood.
  17. if you're not using the shape of the headstock, just draw it in a piece of paper. draw the nut, and then figure out the placement for the tuners using straight lines as guides.
  18. wow, this seems like a lot of work. I would radius the underside of the rosewood without thinning it. glue that to the neck and then remove excess thickness. I would do this way because it would be easier to cut the fret slots in a flat surface. but I think that the factory would have done it differently. getting the rosewood at 1/8" already and then bending it over a radiused neck.
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