Hector

if you did a good job with the router, and you got a nice fit (perfect fit, tight, no gaps at all) you can use wood glue. for everything else, use epoxy.

i like it a lot! looks very good. congrats.

i would not recommend this, if its an X braced guitar, say goodbye to your structural stability, you'll ruin the guitar. +1000

i like it a lot! I would have split the large spalted maple in the middle and added the other woods as a center stripe. but in the end I think it turned out to be a build with lots of character.

you need to draw the strings. the way it is designed, it seems that all the strings will have to go up a bit. you should move the whole design closer to the bottom edge of your wood, you can copy the tuner placement holes from a strat headstock. that way all the strings will run paralel to each other.

nice build! is there any specific reason for using a flatsawn neck? everything seems to going smoothly. keep up the good work.

wes is right. if you´re using a thin veneer then, using a drill might not be a good idea. the piece I used is not a veneer, it´s 2mm thick rosewood, so it turned out ok. use a drill press. using a hand drill would be to hard to control the depth of the hole. if you´re going with a thin veneer, then a razorblade would work just fine.

draw a central line, drill 2 or 3 holes and use a chisel or a file to remove the material between them. mine turned out pretty cool!

hey wes, you´re gonna love it. awesome tool.

I had the same problem with some maple on my acoustic... never got rid of it.

yes! and remove material from the bottom until your happy with it.

1. i would try to remove the FB as the tutorial says, but only if you really run out of options. and to thin the neck use sandpaper. go slow, since you don´t know how much material to remove. if you want to remove more wood, then use a rasp (make notes on your next builds so you know how deep the truss rod channel is). 2. after hammering frets on more than 10 guitars, I never used any kind of glue to set them in place, make sure the slots are deep enough and that there is nothing in it (no chips of wood, dried glue, nothing!) I do all my leveling with sandpaper and a ceramic tile (spelling?) glued to a plywood block. then use my fingers and sandpaper to remove the sharp edges. works well enough for me. 3. on this particular task I recommend that you buy the files from stewmac or any other supplier. your work will be much cleaner and the results will be nicer. to check how high the slots are, I fret the string on the 3rd fret, and check the gap between the top of the first fret and the string. there should be a minimal space there. you can tap the string at this spot ( right above the first fret) and hear the sound produced, it there is no sound, then you´ve gone to far. 4. I don´t understand why the binding breaks... it shouldn´t break if you trimmed the tang. make sure the tang is removed completely, and that there´s nothing left, grab the fret with some pliers, turn them upside down, and use a file to make sure it´s flat and "tang-less". 5. any fine metal file would work. use some tape to protect the wood around it. 6. you can use just a block of wood and sandpaper, go slow and sand only where it needs to be sanded.

2 words and a letter. safe-T planer! works every time!

hey avenger, are you doing a tummy relief on that one? i always find hard to evaluate how much wood i can remove from the hollowed chambers close to the top side of the waist. are your routes freehanded? nice work!

if the humidity is high and the sides of the crack are closer than they were before, and you glued them back together, can you guess what will happen when the humidity gets low again?? the wood will shrink again, and maybe crack one more time! keeping the humidity up is not the way to work this out. you should glue it when it´s low, and fill the gap. then you don´t have to worry about it anymore.

well done!! i like it a lot.

the natural woods would´ve looked great! why did you paint over it??

looking at your piece, i would cut it down the middle like the other guys said, but I would flip the pieces. glue the outside edges to the new piece of wood. this way it would be closer to quartersawn.

oh oh... here we go with the one piece guitar again. :D

I don`t think side supports are necessary if the sides are made of laminated wood. if it´s solid wood, then I will do no harm, but don´t overdo it. you don´t need a huge piece of wood there. about the bracing, i wouldn´t cut the neck block. and just use one brace there. make sure all your braces are quartersawn, that makes a huge difference. the braces closer to the waist seem to be too close to each other. I would put them more spaced, at least on the bass side.

so now it´s the time to tell you why the piece cracked. wood expands and contracts with humidity. if you take a acoustic guitar for example, and glue the top (unradiused, not domed, or anything. just flat) when the humidity is 80%, the dimensions of the wood are bigger than it would be at 40%. so what happens is that you secured the borders of your wood to the sides, and as the humidity drops, the piece starts to shrink (in a very very small way), but the piece is glued to the sides, and not going anywhere. here is where your wood cracks. imagine yourself pulling a piece of paper with both hands. it´ll rip at some point. it´s the same with the wood, imagine that you are holding the paper very steady and pulling it tightly, if the paper could shrink, it would rip. in my city, we get humidity as low as 13% in the dry season, you can guess when it´s the time I do more repairs to acoustic guitars. a domed top, will allow the top to expand and shrink some more (convex when it`s more humid, and getting almost flat or even concave when it´s too dry). my advice? whenever you´re gluing wood like this, do it in a humidity controlled room. 43% is my choice. lower if its possible, but never more than that. hope i'm being clear, english is not my first language.

you can do any way you want to. if its gonna be a solid color then it really doesn´t matter I would move the body to one side and add the "ears" to one side only. (I'm lazy, I know).

if I can make a repair so good that`ll be invisible, then to me, it´s not a mistake. sh*t happens, woods crack, that happens a lot in any woodshop. i don`t think putting glue in a crack and closing it is a repair at all. it´s just what we all do everytime something like this happens. a lot of times, dealing with thin acoustic sides, i had little cracks. but none of the wood is gone, it´s still there, just put glue and pressure and everything is fine again. a router tearout is another story, you have to fill the gaps etc... sorry man, but it seems to me that your standards are set way too high. much more than every other builder around here. and one other good point is that luthery is all about dealing with this kind of thing, it makes you think of ways to do something, how to make it easier, how to make it faster, how to make it better, how to fix little things like this and a lot of times, how to fix something that seems impossible to fix. it´s all good!

????? is it a solid body? you want the piece between the pickups to resonate better? sorry, but I don`t understand. about the fix: you don´t have to inlay anything in there. just glue some other wood underneath it, and fill the gap with glue+wood dust, I think it will be invisible, look like a grain line. and nobody will be able to tell that it was repaired.

you seem to be doing just fine! keep up the good work! that´s gonna be one fine guitar!