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Hector

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Everything posted by Hector

  1. I don´t use much water when bending maple, and get good results. I do have a question, the fist pieces you bent and broke, were curly maple. the other pieces that bent well were flamed too? When reading your post, the first thing that came to my mind was " the second set is plain maple, not figured." but you didn´t specified. plain or figured?
  2. now that´s a nice piece of quartersawn wood.
  3. to me, Indian rosewood smells like cat piss. lol. nice one blackdog! keep up the clean work.
  4. If I want to do this really fast, I'd just use my safeTplaner, it would be even faster than setting up the router. but I do like using my hand tools. as we all can see, there`s many many ways of doing this task.
  5. how about using some hand tools? planes and chisels and some sandpaper. works just fine without setting up a router and rails.
  6. I would love to work for maton guitars, I live in brazil, but without a doubt I´ll be willing to move to Melbourne just to work there. I would be a such an amazing experience. And my english is not that bad. wow!
  7. nah, they don`t drop the guitars. It´s always the cleaning lady`s fault. and I´ve heard that story way too many times, with some variations, everybody`s blaming someone else, kids, wife, dogs... lol. go figure.
  8. I've done at least 5 repairs in angled headstocks (2 gibsons and 3 acoustics), and not a single one on a fender headstock. it`s all about grain orientation.
  9. sorry protex. I`m not giving more advice, and I was rude. sorry about that. I love this forum, and the work of some of the guys here. I got many projects happening now, so I will still be posting progress pictures and reports when I`m back from my vacation. here`s another one.
  10. okay guys. I give up. sorry about that. I`m off to my vacation.
  11. if you`re going to veneer the headstock, you can do the scarf joint there, and the veneer will cover that. this is gonna be one good looking guitar! nice!
  12. I would put the truss rod. and a lineseed oil with some fine fine grit sandpaper leaves a amazing satin finish. that`s how I finish the bridges on my acoustic guitars. but I think that the contact with the players hand will buff that eventually.
  13. I agree. neck building it`s a lot easier than most people think. and shaping the neck its my favorite part in guitar building.
  14. ok then. if grain orientation is not important for you, then I shouldn`t bother trying to tell you why it is so important to me, and every luthier in this forum.
  15. I think mattia was right. If you worked with the wood,after cutting, sanding, planing, shaping, and finishing, one time or another you will notice if its quartersawn or not. I always check this even before buying the wood. almost all of my mahogany boards are quartersawn. im gonna post some pics soon. and I gotta a lot of wood. lol
  16. seems like you don`t know what you`re talking about. in this case, its best that you don`t say anything, instead of giving bad advice. Also; A perfectly straight neck, with level frets. Does not require any relief. Although a little relief can make small changes that occur with changes in humidity and what have you less problematic, as well as may benifit a heavy handed picker. Peace,Rich I never said that he was wrong. in fact, the only thing that made me write this was the way he wrote " truss rod adjustment is NOT going to stop buzzing on ANY frets closer to the body" I do agree that neck angle MIGHT be the problem, and this he said right "then you neck angle MAY be the problem." but there are so many other variables that could lead to this particular problem, and yes, one of them could be the neck angle. and I really think that the strings needs some very small space to vibrate. and this I`m sure you know rich, many classical builders plane the end of the fb on the bass side for this reason. and having no truss rod to adjust relief this is the way to go. on a electric I always adjust the neck straight and then loosen the truss rod a just a bit until there`s a little relief. and I mean, a little. to me, having a little relief can help setting the action lower. and this is how I`ve been setting up guitars for the last 5 years, and works fine for me. I never meant to be so harsh on the guy, but he should watch out for the way he says things. he never touched the guitar, he never looked at the guitar, so at least he should be using words such as maybe, might, could be, and etc.
  17. seems like you don`t know what you`re talking about. in this case, its best that you don`t say anything, instead of giving bad advice.
  18. you need a little relief. that´s all. a perfectly straight neck, will buzz. with a little refief things should work out just fine.
  19. I want to see the back of the neck. did you use a skunk stripe?
  20. you said on another thread that you used flatsawn mahogany for your necks, good to see that it was 1/4 sawn. I really believe that quartersawn its the best way to go on necks.
  21. I`d try to glue the missing piece back. should work just fine. and could end up invisible.
  22. seems way more work than actually building from zero. but, If you decide to do it, i`d say make the explorer body, and inlay the guitar in it. Sgs are thinner than explorers. you could cut the body of the sg, make it a little square, with the neck, pups, and bridge and inlay that in the explorer body you built. you could even level everything and then glue some veneer on top of it. crazy thoughts man. never heard of someone trying to do something like this. lol.
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