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Hector

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Everything posted by Hector

  1. that wouldn`t be building. It`s just putting it together. and that would not be very difficult, just make sure that all the pieces are compatible. but my advice would be, go on! do it. you`ll love it.
  2. If you stain the whole fret (the space between the frets) that would work fine, without any bleedings. one thing you could do, is try to find some red dots and inlay them on the stained fb.
  3. ??? Scale length is measured from the front of the nut to the bridge where the string sits in the saddle - the front of the nut being the side that butts onto the fretboard, the back of the nut faces the headstock & tuners... this way you will be measuring the string compensation as well.
  4. I don`t know. the website says that its treated and dyed pine. Will it sound good? probably not. tap it, hear it, I could be wrong. I wouldn` use it. use some real hardwood.
  5. draw only half of it, and copy one side to make the other. that will make sure that you have perfect symmetry.
  6. like I said, I only use quartersawn mahogany for necks. but that`s just me. flatsawn maple and rosewood would work for me, but with softer woods, always 1/4sawn. and I`m not trying to convince anyone about this.
  7. use the wood you got and a different one in the middle. like this
  8. 2 times the distance from the nut to the 12th fret.
  9. is that flatsawn? in the end grain picture 2 I`m not sure if what I see is the rings or saw marks. if it is flatsawn I wouldn`t use if for necks. I only use quartersawn mahogany for necks. you can try to find another narrower piece that is quartersawn, and use this for the wings. some people use flatsawn mahogany for necks, but I don`t.
  10. the bridge you want to use is 12.7mm high, not 12.07mm and that is at its lowest possible action, with the bridge touching the body of the guitar. I don`t think i`ll work. and even if it does, you`re gonna have to do some major adjustments and modifications to the body. it`s not worth it.
  11. hey DJ, i`d say put the strings on and see how that turns out. in a few days, the backbow should be gone. if that don`t work, you can widen the slots, or even remove more material from the neck.
  12. as deep as they need to be. simple as that.
  13. i`d say overbend the fretwire and check the slots too see if its deep enough.
  14. I had the exact same idea, but I think that I will leave the pocket pod away from the guitar, these things are replaced with new models way too fast, and pretty soon the pod would be outdated. If I build a nice guitar it will outlast any effects/amps simulators that are available now. my idea now is to build a travel guitar that can be carried on a backpack and then the pocket pod and a small cable would complete the package.
  15. hey rich, this particular guitar has a bridge that doesn`t require the top to be drilled. again, based on a classical guitar bridge. that allowed the bracing to go underneath it without fear of drilling a brace. the top is loose, but not so much that the guitar would sound boomy (its a steel string acoustic) and the braces are indeed tall, but very thin. the shadows in the pic makes them look taller. that guitar is finished and sounds good, better than a friend´s 714 taylor. but that´s just my opinion. I will try to remove a little more material on the next one. living and learning I guess. but I wouldn`t consider this a bad guitar at all. the double X bracing is on my mind too. but with some modifications. we`ll see.
  16. hey mattia, the first one I built used the larivee symmetrical bracing and it worked out just fine. the second one I used the tradicional x bracing. and now here`s what I`ve been using lately. It`s a friend's idea to use the lattice on steroids for steel string guitars, he`s a classical builder and came up with this, which works perfectly. I always use spruce braces, sitka its my favorite. If I can`t find sitka, I use german.
  17. sorry mattia I posted the wrong numbers, I meant 2/2,5mm center, 2mm at the edges, but I`ve build 2 guitars that had less that 2mm at the edges. I`m on my 5th acoustic build right now and none of the previous ones gave any problems. and they sound good! And I think a modified lattice can offer some improvement over the traditional x bracing. on my last steel string acoustic I made a lattice like on a classical, but with beefier braces. I`m gonna check my notes and then post the dimensions of each brace. worked out pretty good with no top deformations. works for me, I don`t know about you guys.
  18. seems like too much trouble for me. and I don`t think it will work. there`s no need to screw up a whole neck and then salvage the truss rod. I would suggest that you make a new neck. and leave that one as it is.
  19. I think you should make it like an acoustic guitar, bending the sides and all, If you have a 60mm body, then carve all that, you`re wasting a huge amount of wood, and also the thin sides and back of a real acoustic are there for a reason. one more thing, 4mm for the top seems too much for me, i`d go for 1,5/ 2mm with an X bracing, you can go thinner if you use a lattice. this will improve the sound of the guitar. I`m building one based on the dreadnautilus guitar but with a bracing not as complex as carlson`s original... with a bolt on design that lets me remove the neck to travel. let`s see how that turns out.
  20. if its a wood binding I would glue the binding first and then route the neck pocket. I don`t think it will rip the binding loose for plastic binding I really don`t know, because i`m not sure how the speed and heat of a router interacts with plastic bindings.
  21. there are many threads about lap steel guitars here on the forum. use the search and voila I built one, fun thing to build. I think I`ve seen more than 5 lap steel guitars threads here. good luck.
  22. I would consider a neck with a scarf joint a 1 piece neck. but that`s just me. don`t know if some of you will agree with me on this one, but I don`t really care. lol
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