eljib

howdy do? I'm about half way through with my solid body 12 string, and I've been rethinking the wiring scheme I had originally planned for it. I'm making this as a 12 string twin of my first 6 string build, so no matter what else I choose it's going to have a 3 pup (nashville tele) setup, a 5-way blade, and three pots to work with. In considering the sound I wanted out of this build, I realized that I wouldn't need all of the series and OoP options I had with the original design, which would leave me with some extra switch positions to fool around with. So, now I'm considering adding a stereo output that would run a tele neck pup to one amp, and the tele bridge to another. My questions are if this would be possible to do using one position of a 4P5T superswitch, and, if it is possible, will this really make my guitar sound considerably "bigger"? I would usually answer this myself through research, but I don't have access to a 12 string rick, or any other guitar with stereo outputs. I have played my own guitars through a splitter I made, but since it sent the same signal to both amps it really didn't do much for me. It just didn't sound "big." It was cool and all...just not what the rickenbacker owners describe coming out of their gear. That being said, I also have to be skeptical of what I read on their owners group forums, as those guys tend to eat up just about anything offered by the company. A typical review may read as follows: "Got my new Rickenbacker Stink-o-Turd guitar case oderizer today, and man am I stoked! I got mine in the vintage pea soup color scheme, and I must say that it is perfectly formed: not too hard/not too runny. It works exactly like a turd should, stinking up the entire case in just minutes. And with that iconic "R" stamped on it, eveyone will know that I only use officially licensed Rick accessories. Trust me guys, this is one quality piece of shite. Don't think that you can make something like this yourself. Rickenbacker hand selects these turds to perfectly match your guitar. This is well worth the money. Can't believe I only paid $120 for this must have accessory." Perhaps that's harsh, but I think some of you know where I'm coming from. So, who has played a stereo 12er, and how great is it actually? Thanks, -Aaron

with that gold hardware and tortoise pickguard, the only choice for me would be a deep blue transtint stain, with laquer finish. I saw that combination on a players strat at GC a couple years ago, and it looked so good I had to make two for myself. I think it would look unique on that instrument, but not gaudy.

28, and glad to be here.

don't touch that thing (other than to play it!) You bought a '68 reissue and for some reason you want it to look like it just came off of the factory floor. If you want, I have a shiny new strat that I would be happy to trade for your well worn RI. Think of it like a pair of jeans or old boots: If your pants get dirty, or you step in some $hit, you just clean it off. But you don't want to get rid of the broken-in feel that they have, (or the reasons that they have it). It takes years of playing to get something like that to occur. Don't erase it when you've got the real thing.

does anyone else foresee a wicked foot injury when the duct tape glue joint snaps at that upper horn?

I waited weeks to get my hands on some Trans-Tint blue, but then got impatient and bought some Trans-Fast powder instead. I don't know why I didn't do it sooner, because I just finished dying, and it looks every bit as rich as the liquid dye. I mean, it's all made from the same powder in the first place, right.

It's just like Swedish said, except when I switched the cover on my SD vintage stack the tabs were not bent. The only thing I had to do (besides pull it a little) was de-solder the tab that touched the connection point for the wires. It was soldered to ground and the cover helps to block RF that way. Make sure that you re-attach the new cover by soldering it to ground in some way.

I saw in another post of yours that you were considering the TOM. Remember that you'll have to angle the neck for that. Rickenbacker 12-string bridges are tall too, but they dont angle the neck. Instead, they just have the fretboard sticking WAY above the body. Gotoh makes a very nice hardtail 12er that loads 6 thru and 6 on top. I have all three, but I prefer the gotoh as it has wider spacing and individual height adjustments for each string. It may especially suit your 620 project (solidbody neckthru) because of the neck angle issue. Were you looking for gold or chrome? If you decide to go the Gotoh route, PM me. I might be able to help.

Stop arguing! This is the most comfortable guitar you'll ever play. http://folk.uio.no/jonhaar/pics/stygg6.jpg

regarding methods for ID'ing a home build, I rout a stylized version of my initials into one of the chambers, then glue on the cap. It takes an x-ray to reveal it, but it's pretty damn hard to get rid of the evidence.

Hi guys. I don't post much because I spend most of my time reading the vast ammount of info already here, but now I have a specific question. I'm ready to finish my first build, and I'm aiming for the exact color of the Fender Cobalt Blue from the link below: http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e287/elj...transparent.jpg I went to my local Woodcraft to grab some Transtint Blue (#6022) and they were out. I'm about to order some from stewmac but the question now is whether the transtint is enough to match that color, or if I'll need something else. I think it's the most vivid blue dye I've seen, but their color samples are on figured maple (presumably bleached). I believe the fender image is over swamp ash, and I'll be using it over unbleached alder. Here is the link to the Transtint color sample: http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e287/eljib/6022blue.jpg Also, does anyone know whether I can finish over this dye with tru-oil? The transtint site says that it can be used with SOME oil products, but does not specify which. Thanks in advance for all your help, Aaron

I was at their site five minutes ago, about to order the red special, when all of a sudden firefox stopped loading pages for me. I'm glad I caught this before heading back over there to finish the transaction. Regardless of whether or not all his templates have errors, I refuse to deal with business owners who have no regard for their product or customers.

All very impressive. I remember when hooglebug first posted sketches of desiree (or at least when I first saw them) and I'm surprised he thinks he didn't get it finished fast enough. It had my vote on account of it's well executed and difficult design...until I saw carvetop heaven. It wins for native (read: non-traditional) wood choice, and for being a first-time-build done flawlessly. Also, I am a fan of the offset grain (on both of these guitars)

Where do you plug her in?

I've seen this thread referrenced at least ten times for the helpful info it contains, but I'm still anxious to find out what brand of poly spray Maiden used here. I understand that the best way to go is with a gun, but if results like this can be obtained then I'd just as soon spend the money on cans rather than a gun, compressor, etc.

annual bump

I like this one the best. Also, you could make the top a multiple piece laminate to replicate the ribs of one of those 50 Gallon Drums that everyone associates with toxic waste. And you could paint some glow-in-the-dark, flourecent drips oozing down the side. Also, though I'm very unfamiliar with your profession, if there were some type af technical device that you guys use, a meter of some sort, that you could incorporate into the design as a functional aspect of the guitar, I think that would enhance the overall feel of the Radioactivityness. Like some kind of analog meter that read resistance or something Anyway, it looks great. Cant wait to see how it turns out.

WOW, I am awestruck. Great job. BTW, is that maple a 1-piece top? If so, where can I get something that wide.

That's incredible. Airbrushing is way harder than it looks (at least for me it was) and you do a great job. As soon as I get this posted I'm going to go search for any other finished pieces you've got on here! I think you should do a similarly themed piece for the headstock, though I don't have any suggestions on what I think it could be.

I'll second that. I've never seen 'em anywhere. Might be time to dust off the saw.

That's really impressive. Nice work!

That sounds a lot like my late 60's Apollo brand Rickenbacker copy. Mine has: -Ric-ish headstock though not angled. -Bigsby style trem, only works to raise tuning. -Bolt-On neck. From the picture yours looks quite similar to mine, which has real pearl block inlay, bound FB, very narrow width at headstock. -Floating tune-o-matic style bridge plastic bridge pieces, (rollers, actually, with 3 grooves on each one to accomodate different string spacing) -Two volume two tone and 3-way switch. -"Made In Japan" imprinted on the neck mounting plate. The strangest feature is the unique neck joint, which has an overhang from the back of the neck that acts as a false heel, and avoids the awkward transition from neck to body that you normally get with a bolt-on.