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GuitarMaestro

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  1. GuitarMaestro
    The guitar looks great....Especially the inlays. How did you do them? P.s.: I would think about removing the pickguard as well....
  2. GuitarMaestro
    Thanks for your answer dave! Concerning the planing of the neck blank: I have access to a jointer and to a thickness planer. I am going to use them for that job. The only problem is that no matter how sharp the knives are, there will be some degree of runout. But I this will be spots which are lower than the rest of the wood and if there are not to many, they should be no problem for a good lamination. P.s.: I had no trouble making necks from curly maple so far....I think you should not shy away from using it on the outside of a neck as well.
  3. GuitarMaestro
    3/4"....Are you CRAZY? This would not leave much of my nicely figured maple neck blank. As I said before, the neck blank is curly hard maple. I just want to laminate a dark stripe in the middle of the neck in order to make it stiffer and increase the stability of the angled peghead/neck joint. If I take a hard wood like ebony or bunbinga, do I really have to use 3/4" piece? Optically I would use something which is 1/2" at max. Would this bring much increase in stability/stifness at all? If not then I'll not do a center piece and hope that the maple is siff enough.
  4. GuitarMaestro
    @tsl: I once had a good idea on how to produce perfectly straight compound radius fingerboards. It is a method often used for shaping the profile of RC Plane's Wings. I did not try the idea myself, because after thorough research discarded the idea of a compound radius fingerboard and went with cylindrical fingerboards. The idea works like this: 1. Make metal templates for the both ends of the fingerboard, which have the desired radius and shape you want on each end. 2. Take a long fret leveleing block or a long and not too wide sanding block and sand along the run of the strings, until you have sanded the wood down to the metal templates on both ends. Greets, Marcel Knapp!
  5. GuitarMaestro
    @wes: You're right here....I also suspect that even the best companies use the cheapest wood they can get. But the precision of factory made necks is difficult to beat. Can someone please answer my question concerning the recommended thickness of the centerpiece? Thanks in advance, Marcel Knapp!
  6. GuitarMaestro
    Look here and here in order to get answers to all your compound radius questions. HTH, Marcel Knapp!
  7. GuitarMaestro
    Thanks for your advice and warnings guys. As some of you know I have done ALOT of research before starting to build this guitar. As it is the first complete guitar I build, I practice everything on scrap pieces before using the good wood. The problem is that I've been playing and studying guitar for quite some time now and have alot of factory guitars. Therefore I HAVE to build a great guitar the first time, otherwise it will be useless to me because I have some quit great guitars. I did alot of woodworking for RC Planes and other models of airplanes, therefore I have some ability to craft things. So far I am very happy with the fingerboard and necks I built. So lets hope for the best.... Greets, Marcel Knapp! P.s.: How wide a centerpiece should I use in order to improve the necks stability at all? I though about 8mm....
  8. GuitarMaestro
    Thank you very much for all your answers! I think I'll go with Ebony, Bubinga or Wenge. Price doesnt matter, as I want to build the best guitar for myself and not an affordable one. I often heard that Purpleheart is a very solid wood. But the Purple color is really not my taste. Greets, Marcel Knapp!
  9. GuitarMaestro
    Put small pieces of wood in the fret slots. They should have a different color than the fingerboard. This will give you more orientation on the fingerboard and will make it easier to play a fretless if you are not yet a master of unfretted instruments. Many professional and commercial available basses are built this way.
  10. GuitarMaestro
    Concerning sustain: Surely the floyd will reduce the sustain of the guitar. A hardtail is the best solution in order to maximize sustain. I love tremolos however and wouldn't want to play a guitar without one. I cannot unserstand all this sustain talk anyway. I have yet to hear a player who really uses the sustain of his guitar to the max. At least in the music I play I usually dont need half the sustain which would be possible with my trem equipped guitar. When do you play that 60 sec note? Is it worth to sacrifice the tremolo for it? I dont think so....I have yet to see a good guitar with has such a short sustain that I consider it unusable. And I play every style from jazz to metal.
  11. GuitarMaestro
    Hmmm....I am just not sure. I have this quatersawn curly hardmaple neck blank here. It is a very special 39" long piece, I want to use for a neckthrough guitar. Do you think I need to insert the centerpiece to get it stable enough or will it be stiff enough if I just use the blank as it is? It would be sad to cut this special blank. It was not easy to get a neck blank which is 39" long and 2" high.
  12. GuitarMaestro
    Hi! I am going to build a neck from quatersawn curly maple. As I am not too convinced that this is stable enough, I decided to insert a 5/16" centerpiece in the neck. Which wood is the best choice as a centerpiece if I want the best possible stiffness/stability? Walnut? Bubinga? It should be dark wood, for getting a nice contrast between the maple and the centerpiece.... Thanks in advance, Marcel Knapp!
  13. GuitarMaestro
    Thank you very much for all your answers! One question though: What is a volute? I dont know what volute means, because I am no native english speaker....
  14. GuitarMaestro
    Thanks for your answers. I definately dont want to do a scarf joint because it looks ugly to me and I wonder if it is necessary at all. I want to simply build the whole neck from one neck blank and without glue joints. Is that a bad idea?
  15. GuitarMaestro
    Hi! I am in the process of building a neck-through neck with a 10° angled peghead. I'll use curly hardmaple. I wonder if I really need to do a scarf joint. I'll put a quilted maple veneer on the top and the bottom of the peghead, so the endgrain showing up is no problem for me. My only concern is stability. Will it really make the neck much weaker? There are people telling that....But I cannot believe that a 10° angle can change much. After all 10° is a very small angle and the grain will still be very long in the peghead. I thought of placing two carbon fibre rods to the left and the right of the trussrod in the peghead/neck joint area in order to make the neck stiffer. Do you think I need a scarf joint? Do I need carbon fibre rods if I dont do a scarfed joint? Or is the neck stiff and stable enough without both? Thanks in advance, Marcel Knapp!
  16. GuitarMaestro
    Thanks for your answers and the dimensions you posted. I guess I'll just have to place it in a way which fits my frets and my taste.
  17. GuitarMaestro
    Hi! I am currently building my first guitar with a floyd. I am not sure how deep to place the locking nut on the neck. Is there a standard, how high the nut has to be above the fingerboard or should I install it how I consider it right and in order to minimize the action? Thanks in advance, Marcel Knapp!
  18. GuitarMaestro
    Does Fender use glue for their frets at all? As far as I know they never used glue on their made in USA models, but I am not too sure. Can someone confirm this?
  19. GuitarMaestro
    Try GalleryHardwoods I bought the greatest quilted maple top I ever saw from them. And the price was very good. They offer great service and answer really fast. Dont think that they only have the wood pictured on the side in stock. Its only a small selection from what they have.
  20. GuitarMaestro
    Great great guitar. I am really impressed by the cool shape and the flawless execution. You should NEVER drop this guitar though....
  21. GuitarMaestro
    @Ace: The speedloader can be bought as a single unit. As far as I am concerned there is no reason to retrofit a guitar with the unit though. What advantage over a usual Floyd does it have? You need no locking nut and no tuners. Both are present on an older guitar anyway.
  22. GuitarMaestro
    Thank you very much for your help and the pic Wes!
  23. GuitarMaestro
    First of all thanks alot for all your answers! @Wes: 1. Do I get you right that you shaped a peghead by only doing cuts perpendicular to the outer line of the shape? Doesn't this take ages? 2. I am not to sure about the stability of rock maple anymore. Sometime ago I dropped a similar shaped test peghead made from western rock maple on the floor in order to check its stability and one of the horns broke off immediately. 3. Isn't it very risky to cut the peghead to its final thickness with a bandsaw after shaping it? I guess it would be better to dirst cut it to the final thickness. Why do you do it the other way? Is there an advantage I dont get? Greets, Marcel Knapp!
  24. GuitarMaestro
    What do you use to get the peghead to its final thickness then?
  25. GuitarMaestro
    Isnt it very difficult to get the peghead to its final thickness this way?
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