levelhead86

Another quick question... is there any reason to think I might have better luck with the dyes they sell on lmii? thanks

The only thing different, are the labels stuck on the outside of the bottle and StewMac gives some colors a different name. Hmm... very interesting indeed. Also, a quote from the joewoodworker.com page on TransTint:

The makeup of StewMac's stain is different? This I wouldn't have assumed, since they're so similar. The only reason I was going to use TransTint is because I'm ordering a veneer for the same project, and the place I'm getting it from offers TransTint, so I'll save on shipping versus ordering separately from StewMac. However, if it'll work with the urethane I've got, then it's worth the extra. If I used a translucent/candy finish all the way across... will it still have the effect of "popping" the grain on my veneer like stain would, or no? Also, it's on an RG7420... so I'm guessing that's basswood, and then the veneer will likely be maple.

Thanks again for all the research, and replies, guys... I haven't actually finished the guitar yet... the plan is to do a translucent burst over the whole thing. I figured I'd be mixing the TransTint with solvent, and spraying it over the whole thing... then adding then adding TransTint to my desired medium (I was originally hoping it to be urethane + catalyst) for the burst part, and then spraying the same medium (sans TransTint) over it as my clear coat. The goal being to stain the whole thing (so that the grain is easy to see); then to use the TransTint+medium to achieve a reasonably translucent burst pattern, while still deepening the finish and increasing the opacity of the sides/edges (to help hide the transition between top and the rest of the body wood). As for my preference for the urethane... it's because I've used lacquer (primer, color, clear) and I was moderately satisfied with the results. But, my last project I used the urethane and I fell in love with how it covered, how it sprayed, the depth of the finish, and how fast and hard it dried. I've noticed that you don't need to seal the wood before applying it either, which is a relief. Also, I have a bunch of urethane still around. However, I saw that TransTint can't be mixed with the urethane I'm using... so that put a real wrench in the works. The shellac sounds like a reasonable option, but it's starting to sound like more trouble than it's worth. That in mind, I'm guessing I can just return to using the lacquer for this project...? Hmm... I'll consider that. Thanks

Wow... really quick responses and great answers guys. Thanks a bunch, and will do.

I read on the TransTint website that you cannot mix it with two-part urethane. My question is if you can still use it as a clear coat on top of a TransTint dyed guitar, or will that cause some kind of adverse reaction? Thanks

Forget it... delete this post... it was dumb.

Ok Wes, here's the thing... single comments that state things such as "You don't have a guitar with a Floyd rose original and EMG 81/85 pickups for $300 new.The least expensive i have seen is more around the $650 - $700 mark." are nothing more than accusing, argumentative, and TOTALLY looks like railroading the subject at hand. I'm equally as guilty of this, by butting heads in here when I should be more subjective, like you are most of the time, and I apologize. I'm not going to disagree that you build your guitars using better materials *woods, pickups, hardware* than most custom shops/premium factory guitars I've seen/played. Most of what I've learned on here, I've learned from reading your *Wes* or Perry's write-ups and because I know I'm inexperienced in "from the ground up" type builds, I've been sure to sit and contemplate each and every cut on my first project so that the results are something I'm satisifed with and can use. And so far, that's been the case... *I'll prolly post the whole thing when I'm done.* Mind you, I'm about 8 months into the build, and I haven't even got to routing the truss channel yet because I'm working a piece at a time, and buying the tools I need as I go along *whenever it calls for something I don't have*, rather than just cob-jobbing it with whatever I've got. So I'm NOT trying to suggest that a great guitar will be built overnight, on a shoestring budget and go head-to-head with the quality of it's pro-shop equivalent. The only point I'm making here, is that if somebody starting out has experience working with wood *the kind that comes from trees, not the other*, has a clear focus on what they're trying to make, takes their time, has the right tools *even if it's in a friend's shop, or the schools shop, or the local furniture builder* and shops smartly for their supplies; then they can have a great quality first attempt *and likely accomplishment* without spending several thousand dollars. I've seen it before, and though it's uncommon *just because most people RUSH, and cut corners on things they shouldn't*, you can turnover great results in your first few builds. And there's a few members on here who have experienced that.

Looking forward to this one Matt...... PICTURESSS!!!!!!!!! I NEED PICTURES!!!!!

That's my sentiments exactly... As far as I've seen, the markup on guitars that come from the factory with premium parts is FAR beyond the price of putting it together yourself, or even hot rodding a "cheaper" guitar with the premium parts. This can be seen ala Alexi LTD lists for $1,499 and the ESP version lists for $2,669, and the only substantial PHYSICAL difference between the two being a different locking nut, and different tuning machines. And mind you, for those prices, you're getting a solid color paintjob so it's not likely there's AAAA top wood sitting underneath the finish. I'd never try to compete with the price of Squier Strat vs. building the same, but I am guaranteeing I'd be paying a buttload more for a neckthru RG7, baritone scale from ibanez, even if it had piece of crap pot-metal hardware, then if I made one myself with better hardware. The only difference overall is if you're planning on reselling the guitar afterward, then yeah, you're looking at losing some money; but don't forget that those big time dealers aren't paying full retail for all the wood, hardware, electronics, and finish like us hobbiests are mostly paying; so they're paying significantly less PER PART then you would. So yeah, resale is likely not going to favor you on a custom job unless you've got a good reputation and/or a real deal custom shop; but that shouldn't stop you from building a guitar for you, at your specs.

You don't have a guitar with a Floyd rose original and EMG 81/85 pickups for $300 new.The least expensive i have seen is more around the $650 - $700 mark. They're EMG HZs, and I added the original FR afterward, and the guitar was used. Furthermore, I'm not going to argue with you about what I have or don't have, and what it costed, or didn't cost me in an open forum. You're a great builder, and seem to be a really experienced player, but that doesn't give you the right to totally railroad the topic just because you disagree with the numbers I put on here. Just because I'm sure to find a deal on things before I buy them doesn't mean I'm either lying or all my equipment is junk.

The neck portion on mine is a 3 piece mahogany, the fretboard is mahogany, and the wings are hard maple. The tuners are gotoh minis, and I did a TOM string-thru, so that explains it not costing a lot there; and I'm just using Duncan Designs *I had laying around, I bought for $20* in the beginning to be replaced with prolly Bareknuckles afterward.... Again.. this is my first full-scale build, so that's the only reason I'm cheapskating it on the pickups and if everything in the playability of the guitar is to my liking, I'll drop the $150-$200 on a better set afterward. If to be a "Dream guitar" it has to have a Floyd Rose, and EMGs *or whatever premium aftermarket pickup you want*, then I've got a "dream" Washburn at home that only costed me $300 itself... just because it's cheap, doesn't mean it's "cheap".

Sorry for the hijack, but I got a quick question... I got my fretwire from warmoth, and it comes "prebent" in 4 pieces in a half circle about a foot and a half in diameter... am I going to have to re-angle for my fretboard radius, or can I trim an press them as is?

The guitar I'm building is a neckthru RG7.... and other than the fact that a production model doesn't exist, I've bought all the supplies for the guitar and THEN SOME... and it's only costed me $300, whereas, a custom shop model build to my specs could cost 10 times that.... The only big issue was making sure I bought all the appropriate equipment to make the guitar in great quality, and that costed probally another $1000, but that was because I had crappy tools starting out; and even STILL it'll cost less than buying a custom shop model. The next guitar I build will cost significantly less, because I have a lot of leftover supplies and I know the mistakes to NOT make; and I also know where to buy supplies for the best price. So to me, ultimately, you're better off building your guitar unless your dream guitar is a Squier or some other "beginner" guitar. Hope I was SOME help.

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