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About Geo

  • Birthday 12/08/1986

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    Kent, OH, USA

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  1. I'm not sure if you've ever experienced microphonic feedback (which is what you're trying to replicate here)... it's not like string feedback. It doesn't matter what note or chord you're playing, your feedback will be its own pitch, probably always the same pitch. It will also be uncontrollable at performance volume levels. That said, if you want to experiment with microphonic feedback, I think you're on the right track. Loose winding and lack of potting will give you what you're looking for.
  2. I agree that pickups are a huge factor in the sound of a guitar. However, to my ears, I can still hear the unique tone of a guitar come through in different pickups. For example, my $99 knockoff Strat (first guitar... gettin teary-eyed...) still has the same character even with rewound pickups. This is probably due to the body wood sandwich, neck joint and bridge still being the same. I built a guitar with a poplar neck and ash body. I put cheap no-name P 90's in it. Even after rewinding these pickups, the particular "thud" of the ash and the springiness of the poplar neck still come out in the amplified tone. Now, maybe there would be a bigger difference if I put humbuckers in the Strat or Strat pickups in the ash guitar... I don't know.
  3. Way cool. 3-pickup guitars other than Strats are so badass.
  4. It has a lot more character than tops that are just bleeding figure everywhere. I like how the figure comes and goes. If YOU are happy with it, then yes, it was a good buy!
  5. I think the idea is that it holds whatever pitch the open string is tuned to. I don't think it has anything to do with intonation, just the mechanical stability of the string. So you could intonate the guitar poorly and leave it out of tune and this system would keep it like that, against changing weather conditions, string bends, playing like an animal, etc.
  6. yeah an unusable 60's 335 is still unusable... although I guess you could sell it for millions and get a solid workhorse guitar and a house instead.
  7. lol... er... routers use bearing bits and templates. It's not that my hand shakes; pencil lead is just not very precise because it's constantly changing as you use it.
  8. The poor guy is just trying to represent neck angle mathematically. Of course, guitarists are notorious for their inability to learn new tricks. For myself, I might prefer to use an equation. I just don't trust my pencils. When I'm drawing a neck-length line, the pencil can start out with a perfect point, but how do I know the point isn't changing as I make the line? Also, how can I be sure I'm keeping the pencil perfectly steady against the straightedge? There are so many variables there, and it's all about muscle control! I think adjustability in bridge height covers a lot of slop. Still, why not take the formulaic approach? It looks like fun.
  9. If you're just getting started and you don't have or want to buy spray equipment, Tru-oil is a great finish for guitars. It's easy to apply by hand and easy to level. http://sport.birchwoodcasey.com/Finishing/...42-5b1b8a3f180e
  10. A word to the wise... if you oil-finish it, you may want to seal the spruce with shellac first. I was advised to do that when I tru-oiled an acoustic build, because the top will (allegedly) soak up the finish and get too heavy respond well to the strings. Of course, if it's a plywood guitar, it may not make much difference.
  11. Looks good. Don't let the router slipups getchya down.
  12. A 250k resistor between the Tele pickup and the switch would bring the load under full pot rotation up to 500k... but I don't think you could ever turn the Tele pickup down below 50%. crap, that's backwards 250k resistor for the P-90, but you won't be able to turn it off all the way.
  13. Yeah. Even easier... align the set screw with the slot in the shaft. As long as you are not screwing it onto the full side of one half of the split (and thus eventually collapsing the split shaft), you should be fine.
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