sinner16

well. .. I'm no expert... but I'm sure it will work with some modification to the body. You most likely will have to fill on some holes from the "vintage" bridge is they do not line up correctly. Also I would string up the bridge with the hi and lo "E" strings... this will give you an idea of how close the string are to the edge of the fingerboard. I had a similar situation where the posts lined up... however the low E was at the very edge of the neck. After I positioned the bridge where the strings were even (1/8 from the edge of the fingerboard) I found that the routing for the bridge was just a bit to small. The sustain block was rubbing against the body. So I filed the routing a little ... and now she's nice and smooth.... I may have some pics I can send.. if interested.... Just my $0.02 worth... Good luck....

I in the same boat as you .... I had to plug up all six holes due to spacing issues. Turns out the original 6 holes were all over the place... so my "direct replacement" is not so direct!!!! I was thinking of using a hand drill for this... but I also question how steady I can keep the drill. I have a drill that has a "bubble level" on it to to keep things straight. Drilling by hand seems to be more of a gamble than anything else.

Well ... I'm not sure if this is the right section for this .....But here it goes.... I was cleaning up my Agave Blue Tele the other day, admiring its simplicity.. as well as it effective sound. I was holding the neck near the nut while putting her back in the case... when I heard a "snap". Nothing really loud... almost like a thin rubber band breaking from being stretched too far. Surprised at the sound... I began to investigate.... Basically the skunk stripe on the neck had come loose. When I say loose... I don't mean hanging off.... If I were to tap on the stripe near the nut... it sounds hollow... and the stripe will actually flex slightly. Any ideas how this can be fixed rather easily and painless .... or should I just live with it..... as I don't want to have to refinish the neck ... not yet anyway !!!!! Also on a side note ...... The bridge pickup has a 4th screw .... yeah it's wedged between the pickup and the plate the pickup / bridge are attached too.... I though to myself .. *** .... Fender's QC department is slacking...... then again... it's not a Custom Shop !!!!!!!

Ok.. if that's normal.. I guess I'll have to get use to it.... It feels strange, since I've been playing on a Tele and an Ibanez acoustic for the past 4 years ..LOL... So it's been about 4-5 years since I owned a guitar w/ a tremolo ... it is a first time I had a "floating trem' So I'm getting acquainted.. I also have to learn not to press too hard on whatever note I am fretting..... This Jackson has jumbo frets... so I noticed if I press too hard... the note goes sharp This is way different from my MIM Tele. Funny how each guitar has a distinct feel and playability .... I guess that gives me even more of a reason to own 10 guitars !!!!! thanks for the input....

Ok.. So I took the Floyd Rose copy off my Jackson..... replaced the trem bar to a new style... Now I set the whole thing up.. intonation and all.... (at least I think I did it right) .. This is a recess mount tremolo by the way..... Now when I bend a note.. I actually see the bridge pulling up ... as if I pushed on the bar slightly... This sucks because if I hold a bend and hit another note.... it all sound out of tune.. But when I let the bend go ... it's back to normal. In fact any type of bending make the bridge move ... I don't think it should do that ... So what are my options.... are the springs too weak.. or not adjusted correctly? Did I just goof and my set up is all off ? Should I just get a better tremolo ? Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.... thanks..

I was thinking the same thing... I was looking at buying their "Hot" Alnico over wound Strat set... similar to some Fender Texas Specials ... I have not made the plunge and drop the $45 yet... I checked out alot of his e-bay feedback... which has a pretty good track record.... However... I did ask one of his customers how well the pups are and how the quality was.... I'm still waiting for a reply... and that was about a month ago He does have some very attractive prices... and a ton of parts ..... if you do go w/ GFS... please post yur opinion.... Also he is listed o Harmony Centeral's site too !!!!

ok... scanned the wee jee board aka William Fuld Talking Board .... if anyone would like a scan of it ... let me know ..... The files are pretty big though...

well .. I don't have a template or anything... But I do have the original game by Parker Bros. in pristine condition. I may be able to make some scans for ya ... Let me know... My wife wants me to get rid of it... but I refuse. I've had it out of the box maybe 2 times in the past 13 years !!!!! Looks brand new.

Hey Brian.... not to change the subject around ... but what if you were going to scallop the entire neck (ala Yniwie, Blackmore, etc, etc) would you still need to: 1: pull all your frets 2: do your inlay 3: re-fret 4: scallop the neck. I guess it would depend on the type of inlay.. how simple or how complicated... What do you think?

try searching the forum under CAVITY SHIELDING or just SHIELDING Also there is a site called guitarnuts.com ... this should get you in the right direction....

how about a clear pick guard .. with the image printed "mirriored" then cleared over????? You may need to spray a little white on the backside of the image for the colors to look correct. It would work great like on an Ibanez RG or Jem.... ( no wires or cavitiy routes on top of body). Just a thought....

Well that settles that.... "Goes on clear, stays clear" is just a bunch of BS. I'm looking for some gloss clear coat.. non yellowing of course....Well I guess I'll have to wait to have my spray booth fully built so I can spray indoors. Basically I used my wife's old armoire she bought from Home Depot. It's like 6 ft tall by 3 ft wide... good enough to spray a body and to install a exhaust fan to.... Thanks guys for the hands on advice on Deft... Sounds great to use on a neck .... but not what I'm looing for just yet..... Thanks again guys...

Well so far what I have read in this forum is that in fact "Deft" gloss nitro (picked it up at Home Depot) will yellow with age. However, the spray can states "goes on clear, stays clear" . This is a rattle can I read this on. So ... which is correct? I'm looking for something that is going to stay clear for a long time..... Any opinions about the Deft ????

okay.... for me : 3 acoustic ... all playable (1 is a 12 string) 2 electric that are fully playable 3 electric .. that need a little TLC to be good 1 electric that is getting the full make over and one will arrive tomorrow... so I couldn't tell ya the condition yet.... so a grand total of 10 ..... and one pissed off wife !!!!!! But if she can have her shoe collection.... then I can have my axe collection....

yeah ... nut files and gauged saws are the way to go ... They do cost some $$$ though.... I have read that you can clean up a nut slot w/ a guitar string super glued to the edge of a popsicle stick. You can make your own gauged set with a set if old strings. I don't think you could actually cut the full slot this way... but it helps to make small adjustments. Thats what I read in on of Earlwin's books...

Ok.. I though it was a homemade travel guitar too. However a "guitar blue book" site give info that this came out the same time / or just before the Chiquita. It actually has a "neck through" design, a brass nut for some sustaine, brass "tripple dot" inlay, I think it also has a blender pot too... Not to sure.... I added some more pic. So I guess no one has ever heard of the Austin Hatchet guitar.... hmmm I think one site said it was distributed by the Targ and Dinner of Chicago, Illinois. It's pretty neat looking... IMO ... Just need to get rid of the whit p/u ... Maybe switch to a cream color... or possibly a brass / gold pup.... Anyway.... any opinions... ??? ohh. here is the link to the extrs pics... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v391/sinner16/6b_3.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v391/sinner16/fd_3.jpg

on top / on bottom doggie / missionary drunk / sober sharp / dull spit / swallow (chewing tobacco.... ) jab / punch David Banner / Incredible Hulk heads / tails and to keep up with the times.... alien / predator

Have you ever seen a guitar like this... Or the company ???? Any ideas http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v391/sinner16/f2_3.jpg p.s. that's not my feet... nor are those my sheets

well... a noise gate sounds like what you are looking for... whether you us a switch... a stomp box, or just the volume pot.... you are looking to cut out total noise for a period of time. Push pull pots IMO always seemed kind of clumsy..... to pull up on a pot... then push down... adjust the vol correctly while doing so... it just seems a lot of acrobatics .... But thats just me ....... Cutting out yout input or sound can be achieved many way... it comes down to what is best and easier for you to operate. I think all the bells and whistles you have (switchs within switches) lwould leave me with a ? in my head. I would get into the music / jam/ session ... and forget where I was with the controls on the ax while playing (short memory span)... but hey ... whatever floats your boat. Noise gates work... turning down the vol works to... wiring in a toggle switch will do the same.... It's all a matter of prefrence... .

well ...I'm not a fretting genius .... nor am I normaly competent !!!! But I think super gluing a fret in place... will be a lot harder to remove than a pressed in fret.... My opinion only.... but I'd wait for some "experts" to answer you. Just my thoughts.... or $0.02 worth...lol....

It cool ... kind of like a BC Rich Mockingbird ... mates with a Fernandes Ravelle.... and you get our drawing....lol..... with peg head that you could score a goal with ...lol..... hey ...it's a better head stock than what were they thinking!!!

well it sunds like a good plan ... But I question to actual "user friendly" quality of the axe. It sounds like you will need to do a lot of pushing.. and pulling to get the different sound out of it. But hey if that's what you are looking for.... more power to you... I think I would need a diagram to remember what is going on with the push / pull pots.. and then a kill switch..... But that's just me..... simple.... But it does sound like a good plan..... I hope it all goes well....

Yeah.. I can see that... But also... crowning will take some of the height away from the existing fret. That may make the fret(s) to low for the specific playing style.... That may be a problem... or maybe not.... I've never re fretted... nor crowned.. Yet.... I am about to blow the $100.00 or so bucks on the crowning file set from Universal Jems though.... so take my comments witha grain of salt...lol. Crownin can do the trick for ya... Re fretting is a lot of $$$$ or time and practice if you are going to do it yourself. Do you plan on doing other guitars or just one ? I cant see spending the time + $$$$ + materials+ practice..... for just one re-frett !!!!!?! My point is ... I once paid a (big chain store) $135.00 just to set up a Les Paul .. which really only needed strings and to be intonitated..... From that day foward... I didn't care how long it took me... or the $$$ I spent..... I would try and do my own work ( whatever theat may be) to my own stuff!!!!!! Oh by the way... anyone got any practice necks ?????? Something that I could just practice using a press to put frets in ?????

oK ... so I got this Samick Valley Arts Pro Shop strat copy that I'm putting around with.... I've removed the tremolo to clean it up and get it working properly... but I've come to realize that the trem is a very poorly machined / designed. I mean the 6 holes on the underside had a nominal amount of countersink. From what I read from Dan Earlwins books..... there should be a substantial amount of bevel to the holes... to make a better pivot point. Any way .. to get to the meat and potatoes of this post ... Are the 6 screw holes universal from manufacturer to manufacturer ? I tried to look up some on Warmoth's site.... but it's not working right now. So what I'm asking ... is the 6 holes the same distance on all vintage / fixed trems. I plan on buying something that is good quality. I've tried to whip out the Dremel to make things a little better... But... lets just say .... I'd have to grind off about 3 hrs worth of metal from this trem to make it right..... I could spend a few $$$$ and get a trem that is perfect and spend the 3hr setting it up and installing a new brass nut!!! Any opinions, thought, comments .... or should I just shut up !!!!! lol .....

I hear ya about sealing in the ink. I used Modge Podge (sp) to seal in mine. Do you think that fading will still occure even if sin light is not a factor ? I was thinking of trying it on a strat body... but if its going to fade ... I may look at other methods... Having 4 color decal printed up ... for a 1 time thing .. hmmm I smell a lot of $$$$ burning up? I think I might just try and find a good air brush artist .... that might be the best bet.... On average... if I used a water slide decal... or transparency film with a ink jet printer.... what is the life expectancy ? Alos .. it will be in color... not just black. Any ideas....