calibration1

I can tell you what I know about GOLD leafing cuz I ve done it much. If u go with gold you have to use the real thing, not imitation gold or you will do it over in 3 days. Its not that expensive but I guess it depends on the size. It would be easier to do without removing the first finish because raw wood releases gasses that can cause bubbles. Most important is that you use the right kind of varnish, which is simply a speed varnish that you buy at the boat store. You put on the varnish first in a small area, then wait till it dries , (30+- min) , till its tacky to the touch but does not catch your finger tip enough to show the finger print. If you can see your print in it, then its too early and you gotta wait a few more mins. DEFINITELY dont put the gold on while the varnish is too wet. it takes practice , so practice first. Use a soft paint brush to lay in and burnish the gold. Your big problem is that youre gonna have to seal that GOLD with something when your done, since its a guitar. I dont know what to use to seal it with since Ive never had to do it with sign lettering. Check around for more info. Calibration1

Hi, Im refinishing my bass (Ash body with flamed maple top) to a natural satin finish with some stained accents on the grain. > Do I have to use a grain filler before I put the stain on? ..and what does it do? I am after a very smooth finish that will look like rubbed oil but I intend to poly it with acrylic. I think my steps are..Remove old finish......use grain filler(?),....then stain,...then apply satin poly acrylic....then eat and enjoy. Is that right? Thank you experienced guys, FM