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Muzz

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Posts posted by Muzz

  1. On 7/24/2021 at 1:50 AM, Bizman62 said:

    Yea I know about the barn houses, used as raw material for Barncasters etc.

    Wikipedia told about 'bairn' been mostly used in Scotland which used to be in close contact with the Vikings. Many Scottish names, both for places and people, have a norse origin. I never had realized that until I read part of the Orkneyinga saga that was translated into Finnish. After that it was clear that names like 'Orkney' indeed are Old Norse which can somewhat be understood through Swedish. 'Ey' means 'island' even in current Icelandic. 'Orkn' can be understood as 'Orr's', Orr being the brother of Nor who on his part traveled along the Western Scandinavian fjords and thus gave name to 'Norway'...

    I have been in parts of Scotland (Inverness, Edinburgh) where bairn is used more than child, here's a few more Scottishisms I like,

    ken=know

    canny (as in ye canny do that) = can't

    away with yer wheesht = stop that nonsense

     

    Lovely lines on the guitar Scott, I was going to say it was very three dimensional, but I like sculptural a lot better :) 

    • Like 2
  2. 17 hours ago, ScottR said:

    I actually took photography in college, back in the dark ages. I learned all kinds of dark room tricks......which are completely obsolete now. The new method is much less messy and smelly.

    SR

    Wasn't it fun though putting the print in the tray and seeing the photo appear by magic, it could get messy I agree, that developing fluid never came out of any clothes it touched. There still is something about analog photos that I love.

    I played this guitar for a while today, the photo was taken 5 years ago.

    13925.jpg.2ebee20a64a1bdabed3ede77cc4df46b.jpg

     

    I also got a bit of work done on the fretboard, I marked out the centre line and 12 fret posi.

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    Cut a few windows in the fretboard map, aligned it and stuck it down.

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    The first cut.

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    I stuffed up the 6th fret, that will need to be filled with a veneer strip and recut.

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    Everything else was OK.

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    • Like 1
  3. On 7/20/2021 at 12:28 AM, ScottR said:

    As @ADFinlayson pointed out in his thread, chisels and gouges are not the most efficient way of carving a top. But I think they are the most enjoyable way, definitely satisfying. And along with your impressive dining room set, Muzz, you've got quite a sophisticated vocabulary, something I've noticed over the years.

    Up here, we'd probably say the result was achieved (or will be) with elbow grease and sweat.

    :)

    SR

    My grandfather got me interested in woodwork at a very young age, whenever we were working on something at some point he would say, could you do me a favour and duck out to the back shed and get me some elbow grease 😄 sometimes the requested object would be replaced with tartan paint or a round tuit :) 

    11 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

    Yes certainly is my preferred method, a lot harder to screw up than with power tools too :) 

    If I ever make a carved top that is definitely the way I want to do it :) 

     

    • Like 2
  4. Cheers Scott, I got the table from a local importer who got it from Bali, I am not sure what kind of wood it is, it might be Monkeypod or Indonesian Teak. Amazingly it has a fifth leg, right in the middle, I have never seen that before. It replaced this table which has been moved to the basement,

    IMG_5096.JPG.2814e7db6fa4e9a73df3b5eb57903614.JPG

    I saved the top from an antique table that only had two legs, each with long base at 90 degrees to the leg, and the top was broken along one of the joins. I rejoined the top stripped all the dark brown finish off of it and and made a new base for it out of Tasmanian oak.

    I am looking forward to using my home made fret slotting jig again soon,

    IMG_5098.JPG.1d72dc950ded9828d2894b8d7a5751bb.JPG

     

    If you are interested in manual photography this site is a great tutorial https://www.photographytalk.com/beginner-photography-tips/the-exposure-triangle-explained

    • Like 2
  5. 22 hours ago, Prostheta said:

    I love your mental setup. However mad it gets, if it works, it's stable, it's safe and it's reliable. It's gold.

    I had exactly the same thought, but after a bit of a delay. As I was setting it up I was looking down on it, and from that viewpoint it looked quite neat and tidy, it was only when I stood back and looked at it from the side I thought, woah, that is mental 😃 

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    I will sand out the little ridge where the two templates met

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    The colour of the wood in this shot is a trick of the light, but I really like it

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  6. 22 hours ago, Prostheta said:

    Damnit, even pareidolia ...........

     

     

    How dare you assume that mimetolith's species 🤣 it is very obviously a New Holland wide mouth frog Ranoidea novaehollandiae

     

    Tapped in dowels to fix the template to the headstock, also chucked in 4 tabs of DS tape

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    This installation had a few components

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    The paddle got supported by a chock clamped on, I really enjoy routing I find it so calming

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    Nearly finished

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    And that is all the routing done for this project

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    • Like 2
  7. Drilled in the machine head tunnels today, I could not overcome my fusspot gene that does not like splinter exit wounds even though I know they are going to be covered by the tuners. The bushings are 8 mm. I drilled 1.5 mm holes through the template and out the back of the headstock, The point in the brad point drill bit is going to follow those from each side.

    IMG_5051.thumb.JPG.e1dbec6a8fc4451f48b6a776e64a09ba.JPG 

     

    Drilling about 9 mm into the top.

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    Then I flipped the head over stuck the brad point into the 1.5 mm exit hole and drilled in untill I felt it just meet, Little doughnuts fell out of the holes.

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    Next step is to rout that stuff that does not look like a flying V headstock away.

    IMG_5067.thumb.JPG.29f202080d56b2c484976f869c1ef614.JPG

    • Like 2
  8. Here's the headstock template fixed to a paddle, Just look at that dirty big chunk carved out of the Gibson neck around the truss rod bolt, Gibson headstocks are so weak, they snap if you sneeze on them too hard.

    Exp_Reality.thumb.jpg.1fc1be1b02ffa96d53d34c25d576496b.jpg

    before that gets used for shaping I drew the outline on the headstock, again dowels aligned the bottom of it with the channel

    IMG_7167.thumb.jpg.dfa82a48cc4dbb5bad8ff2a0f33b1982.jpg

    This current neck is being made with what was left over after making this neck

    39668569_DestNeckE.jpg.93bf22bc16468b2d890603c5236c628b.jpg

    And the planes to attach the wings were not symetrical so everything could fit

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    Good thing that just like the pointy headstock, it's getting a veneer over it, nude headstock scarfs are not that pretty at the best of times.

    I trimmed the headstock up a bit with a saw and a rasp

    IMG_7171.thumb.JPG.f270937a4437d18e9b49509b4b2ec132.JPG

    Listening to Thrill by Band-Maid, Kanami Tono is a great guitarist, I think this is one of the best drop D riff songs and if you can play this song with its very interesting timing, just like Malcolm Young, you have a good right hand

     

  9. My new router bits (yellow and blue) arrived, a set like this is good for taking off small amounts of wood at a time and avoiding tearing great chunks out of your project. I have noticed some posts concerned with safety and I hope for people new to routing I am showing you safe ways of sculpting with the whirling blades.

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    I router planed the fretboard down to 8 mm thick and sanded the new plane on a sandpaper strip on glass, glass is dead flat and a great way to get your fretboard accurately flat. The next step is to get one side and the end of the fretboard straight and perpendicular so it lines up in the fret slot cutting jig. I routed against two perpendicular edges, The headstock end only has a tiny bit needing to come off.

     

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    As usual I have a balance beam to stop router wobble, and I took off 1.5 mm each pass. A one mm thick plastic chopping board makes a good shim in an installation like this.

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