knuckle_head

McMaster offers up jewelers blades that have an odd arbor, but a variety of kerf widths - I get my slots wide enough that the tangs grab and catch the ends with a bit of cyano just for peace of mind. I have never had my phenolic chip out but I have had it not accept fret wire. It isn't quite as snappy as ebony, but it is awfully close. I like the notion that it was not packed out of an African forest unbeknownst to anyone... As for bonding it to the neck, if the back surface is sanded to 150 Gorilla glue works well. I have had success with Titebond II and III as well.

A couple of things... Don't use steel as a reinforcement. Its weight to rigidity factor is awful. You are far better served with graphite spars (LMI). I would be very concerned about neck construction if you are counting on fret board material to make your neck more rigid. By virtue of a mated surface you are picking up stability in two directions already regardless of material. I use 5 lam neck sections with carbon fiber fabric as two of the layers and stability is wholely provided under the fret board. That's as it should be. I use garolite because of its sound and its appearance. It really is worth a go.

Best sounding, most powerful passive, Hi Z humbuckers I have ever heard.

The head cap, nut and fretboard are Garolite - the body is figured maple with a semitransparent black shellac. This one has to be my favorite to date (keep that to yourself - I don't want angry emails from my customers). Micarta sounds every bit the same as Garolite given the description. I don't think I'd care for an instrument made of it as it is awfully heavy. I hadn't considered using it as neck stringers but there is a possibility there - I use carbon fiber fabric in my necks so I think phenolic/garolite/micarta would be overkill.

Here's a fretless I did; It holds up very well.

I use McMaster's Garolite - phenolic by any other name... - I am using it for head caps, nuts and fret boards. It gives my basses a unity beyond the body that I like. It finishes jet black, and a radiused board actually shows some of the paper layers giving it a very subtle grain pattern. It polishes beutifully with no finish at all. It is much like machining ebony so it is a bit rough on blades and such. I use the paper/cellulose based material as that is all the stronger I need it to be. Definately use a mask/respirator - the dust is nasty - but no fumes to speak of. I like to catch the ends of frets with a small drop of cyano as I set them just 'cuz, but it isn't a requirement if the slots are done right. And the board itself can be glued down onto the neck with titebond.

I use Garolite for nuts as well and it performs like a champ. I am pondering using it as a bridge material for an EUB. I'll let you know how that goes...

It is my understanding that Bakelite has far less cellulose in it than Garolite. Bakelite is very prone to shrinkage over time where Garolite is more stable. I have no experience with Micarta.