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JiMoSiTY

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Everything posted by JiMoSiTY

  1. The way I do this is with a normal iron (as used for ironing clothes). I heat it to the highest setting before steam, then apply light pressure on the bubble until the heat actually loosens the glue underneath, then that should flatten out the veneer pretty well, just apply pressure with a flat piece of wood after removing the iron to allow the glue to dry again. The whole process only takes about 15 seconds, so don't sit the iron on the veneer too long!
  2. The tutorial on here shows that the holoflash is done with an adhesive tape, which I've done and had it come out very nicely, but I've also done swirls and the first thing that comes to mind for me is how the adhesive tape will react to being stuck down in the water... Hmm. If you've tried this yet, let us know, if not, maybe I'll try it... I've got some "holoflash" tape and the itch to swirl something else... Hmm.
  3. Does anybody know how to do a finish like the Jem 7DBK or even those "Ice Cube" Ibanez finishes? Is there a tutorial somewhere that I haven't seen?
  4. I'm looking for AANJ Ibanez RG520 body, don't care about color or condition really. Will also consider rough condition bodies of other RG5xx's <AANJ or not> (not looking for 550's though). Let me know what you've got. Contact: jim@americanhc.com
  5. Re-read my post, I mentioned where it comes from... Otherwise; I would first check with Brian at UnivesalJems.com - he has a similar graphic available that you can buy from him. Support UniversalJems.com since he does such an awesome job at keeping people like us motivated and informed! Here's a link directly to what you can get from him. http://www.universaljems.com/cart/graphic.htm Look for the "No Pattern Holoflash Material Peal n Stick" item.
  6. My latest project was an Ibanez RG520QSTB, as some of you know, the blue stain on these from the factory is often so dark you can hardly see the figured veneer top. I have two RG520QSTB's, so I figured, why not try something different with one of them... I used a heat gun to remove the factory finish and veneer (being careful because the body is made of Mahogany under there and it's softer than most woods). Once stripped to the mahogany, which would have been fine to leave as is with a nice stain (but I chose not to because as I warned, when taking off the top, I did get a couple small gouges into the wood... it's really soft!) I applied a nice veneer top to it, one piece for each side... It turned out magnificently, except for one big damn air bubble that I couldn't seem to get out on the forearm contour. I decided that it was bad enough for me to not leave it that way, so I ripped this veneer off and started over. The next veneer top that I had wasn't the same kind of veneer but still pretty anyways. I got the second veneer top on, doesn't look as good as the first did, but still not bad. I applied one quick light coat of cherry stain, then sprayed the back and sides of the guitar with a flat black. Then I applied a coat of matte clear over the entire guitar. I'm pretty happy with it now, it tured out pretty good for my second veneer attempt ever. Much better than the first veneer top that I did a long time ago, which was a Charvel. Anyways; here's what came out of this: I wish now that I did that 3D stain technique to it -- ahh... another project!
  7. Wow, you guys are really into the ebonizing thing, huh? I'll definately consider that... For the couple of you that keep asking me how I did this; here ya go. I started with an RG560 body, filled in the neck and middle single coils with pieces of wood that I cut to fit almost exactly into the holes. I glued them in with wood glue and filled the edges with wood filler (along with the tone control and 5-way toggle), while it came out smooth to the touch, my past experience has shown me that no matter how good you do this, you will still always be able to tell that something was filled in there. I then took a piece of veneer and put a veneer top on the guitar (see the tutorial on projectguitar.com for applying a veneer top). This provided the necessary cover for hiding the filled holes. Once the veneer top was in place, I then applied the vinyl graphic film (that you get from a vinyl graphic sign store (or from universaljems.com). Once the entire face of the guitar was covered with the material, I then used an X-acto knife to cut the excess material from the edges and for the trem and humbucker routes. (NOTE: Make sure the back and sides of the guitar are primed and ready for paint before you begin applying the graphic film) Of course you will want to apply the graphic film carefully to avoid any air bubbles or creases. Once the excess graphic film has been cut off, you can then proceed to the next step... (At this point, you can refer to the "Holographic Finish" tutorial on projectguitar.com) I sprayed the entire face of the guitar with a single coat of black paint, then let it sit for a couple minutes... I then took a rag that was soaked with Acetone (be careful with this stuff!) and wiped off as much of the black paint as I felt necessary. (You will learn to get creative with it after it's too late, so I'm sure my next one will turn out much cooler!) Hang the guitar and spray the back and sides without getting overspray on the face of the guitar (of course at this point, it's all personal preference on how you spray your guitars...) Basically, you're just going to finish painting the rest of the guitar, then clearcoat the hell out of the entire thing. It's a fairly easy process to be honest with you (my biggest hurdles were filling in the holes to provide the pickup/control configuration that I wanted. If you don't have to do that, you can easily do this finish in no time flat. By the way, here's a shot of all the materials I used (ok, so I left out the dirty rag that I wiped off the excess black with...)
  8. I've refinished many guitars from the tutorials on projectguitar.com over the last couple years and this is the first time I've attempted the holoflash tutorial. I own a real Holoflash RG565 and wanted something a little different than that, so I chose a different material to use than the standard, but here's what I came up with: I wanted a no-nonsense RG with a bridge humbucker and a volume control, no other pickups or controls... I started out with an RG560 body, filled the two single coils, then put a veneer top over it to ensure they don't magically show up after the finish is applied... I filled in the 5-way toggle and the tone control, leaving only the volume. I put an RG550 maple neck on it first but felt that the tone was a little too bright, so I had an RG7xx neck laying around and put it on there. Perfect. Not only does it look better, but sounds amazing. Some may say that it's not tonally optioned enough to cover a bunch of different styles of music because it's only got the one humbucker and no other tone mods, but being a guitarist in a band that plays out every week, I use two guitars (one tuned up, the other in drop D tuning....) so I went thru our set lists and all the drop D material requires only a bridge pickup, so this works great for me. Here's a pic to show what it looks like: Any comments would be appreciated! http://jimosity.tzo.com/Gear/Guitars/IBANE...SH/P1010001.jpg PS: Pay no attention to the RG510 model number, I didn't know what an RG with one humbucker would me (model-wise) so I just made that up...
  9. I am in need of both an AANJ and a non-AANJ neck. Anybody have either they would consider selling or trading? Contact me asap. Jim Rodgers jim@americanhc.com
  10. I've got a couple old Edge tremolos that are pretty well pitted. One has been stripped of all its plating with a wire brush sander. I remember seeing one of the GOTM guitars with a painted tremolo, but I was wondering what is the best paint to use for tremolos so it doesn't look junky. Any other ideas would greatly be appreciated. Also - if anyone has pics of painted trems, I'd love to see them.
  11. I'm looking for a NON-AANJ Ibanez body. Condition is not very important as it will be stripped and refinished. I'm looking for a NON-PICKGUARD model, so no 550's or 750's. If you have any other RG5xx or RG7xx body to sell, please let me know asap. I'd really like to get this project done soon! Contact me at jim@americanhc.com with prices/pics/condition/etc...
  12. Seems as I'm always looking for necks, so since I'm in another needing mood, I'm looking for a MAPLE fretboard neck - must be in decent condition with good frets. Looking for both AANJ and NON-AANJ necks. Thanks. Jim Rodgers jim@americanhc.com jimosity.tzo.com
  13. I was able to use a 1/4" hole punch for all except the 24th fret, those I did by hand. I did use a hole punch, worked ok but not great. I tried doing it very fast and that failed most of the time, doing it slow just enough to get thru the abalone worked, then I punched a piece of heavy cardstock to get it thru the rest of the way and that worked better. Thanks guys. I saw that stew-mac had the pre-cut inlays, but I was trying to use up some stuff I had laying around...
  14. Circle cutters, huh? I may have to stop by Michael's and check. Any idea on the size that I'll need if it's going to be the same as a normal round circle inlay (Ibanezes are what I'm working on).
  15. OK Guys, I've got some very very thin abalone that I can cut with a pair of scissors or x-acto knife, but I'm having problems cutting it in perfect circles to use as inlays (standard size, round). How can I cut these things into circles correctly?
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