strummer2k

DC Ross - do you remember what kind of server rack you got that from. Just curious so that I know what to be on the lookout for. Thanks.

Man, you're right, they are proud of that stuff. Now, maybe combine it with some ideas from this and we have the ultimate jig for planing and neck pockets! I can find lots of places selling the small t-track stuff you have in the base, but the wide stuff is not to be found.

DC Ross - love this jig. 2 questions: - since I don't have a server rack sitting around, do you have any suggestions where I might pick up some of that t-track...don't remember seeing it at Depot - what would I use to cut it to length? I assume you also had to smooth the edges with something (ok that was an extra question)?

I think I may have messed up. Embarassed I am building a custom body with two humbuckers, a Bigbsy vibrato and the appropriate bridge for it. So, I am ready to wire it up and I realize I haven't done anything to ground the bridge. I have already pounded in the inserts for the bridge posts and don't think I can get them back out. So I don't know how I can ground to the bridge (any suggestions welcome). I can up underneath the Bigsby from the control cavity, so I thought that would be my fix - I could just run the ground to the Bigsby (would this work??). However, I cannot get the solder to stick to the bottom of the Bigsby. I would appreciate any help or suggestions. Thanks.

I saw this HVLP System at Woodcraft. Do you think it is worth the money for one or two finishing projects a year?

I think with the B7 you have to make sure there's plenty of wood behind the bridge --it's a pretty long trem. The bigsby site has measurement's I think. Other than that, both look cool in their own way. I think the downward pressure is the same, since they both use tension bars. I think the B7 is more common on archtops, and the B5 more for flattops. There are other bridge options, sure. You could go with the Bigsby rocker bridge or the compensated wraparound (doesn't matter where the strings come from), although, true they're both TOM style. But if you look at this guitar: I modified the bridge for the Bigsby by carving slots for the strings. Worked great (I eventually took off the Bigsby when I modded the guitar again, then sold the Bigsby...kind of wish I hadn't now...I'll have to get a new one). You could do exactly the same with a hardtail bridge, maybe with a three-barrel type. Didn't the strings bind up in the slots when the Bigsby was used? Seems like a roller bridge or maybe graphite saddles would help the Bigsby work smoother? Again, I don't have any experience with one, but I would prefer to not have to use a tunematic style bridge and angle the neck pocket.

I am in the process of planning a build for a friend of mine who wants a Bigsby installed on the guitar. I don't know anything about Bigsby's. It will be a flattop electric guitar, bolt-on neck. So, after looking on the net a bit, are the following correct assumptions? 1) There are two models which seem to fit the bill, but I don't know which would be more appropriate: B-5 solid body electrics (although the guitar will be chambered, it will be solid where the Bigsby attaches) B-7 more downward pressure?? 2) I would still have to buy a bridge to go along with the Bigbsy. Are my only options the tune-o-matic style bridges? 3) If I have to get a tune-o-matic style bridge, then I need to make sure the neck is a 12" radius neck and I will probably have to angle the neck into the pocket to account for the height of the bridge?

Thanks for the input, yeah, my main worry was tearing up the maple cap when I rounded it, but now that you mention it, it really isn't much different than routing for binding. My hope is to make it end up looking like a single piece of wood since the color will be a solid.

I am not the least bit offended. Honestly. It isn't something I would build for myself. I am just trying to get some answers, but I guess no one has run into any of these issues.

Alright, very funny on the toilet seat thing. Like I said - not my design. Now can anyone help with the questions I had? Questions: 1) When I start to route the edges, am I likely to start chipping out the top, or tearing chunks out? 2) Under an opaque finish, is the seam between the two wood pieces gonna show? I have heard of glue kinda sinking back. Maybe covering the seam with epoxy would help (much like the grain fill process for Mahogany). 3) Is there anything special I need to know about installing a Bigsby?

Well, my friend is pretty set on the horns, I am just trying to make it happen for him.

First off, I have one successful build under my belt and now a friend of mine wants me to build him something. He has come up with an original design and mocked it up in Photoshop (so not everything may be to scale). To me, it looks a bit like some of the old Ovation electrics that were around for a short while. We're going for a Brian May vibe and I want to put some ?Trisonic pickups in there instead of the humbuckers. Here is the mockup: This will have an opaque orange finish. So, the problem is that he is dead-set on the rounded edges as shown in the pic and I really, really want to chamber it because it sounded so good in my other build. For the sake of argument, let's say I use the traditional Mahogany back, Maple top approach and glue those together after chambering the body. Questions: 1) When I start to route the edges, am I likely to start chipping out the top, or tearing chunks out? 2) Under an opaque finish, is the seam between the two wood pieces gonna show? I have heard of glue kinda sinking back. Maybe covering the seam with epoxy would help (much like the grain fill process for Mahogany). 3) Is there anything special I need to know about installing a Bigsby? Thanks for any feedback. I know the horns need some work(doesn't look like you could get your hands in there comfortably) and some of the controls will have to move.

I just got a Guild Bluesbird off of Ebay (great gtr btw). Anyway, the binding is just starting to separate in a couple of places and I want to make sure it doesn't get any worse. The gap for the separation is like a 1/32 or maybe a bit larger. But it is definitely coming loose. Question: would regular binding glue from Stewmac or CA glue be better to fix this with. When I finished a recent project using the regular binding glue, I remember it being a bit messy to deal with and I absolutely do not want to wreck the looks of this guitar. That is why I was considering CA glue. I think it might be a bit easier to work into a small place like that. Also, any tips would be appreciated. I don't want this repair to be visible. Thanks.

I haven't ever dealt with that kind of bridge, so I may be way off, but wouldn't angling the neck pocket fix that problem? It seems like that would allow you to raise the bridge??

Very nice. That neck is outstanding.