Denis

+1 for Zpoxy. I have just used it on a mahogony body with a maple cap. It not only filled the mahogony grain like a dream, but it popped the maple grain beautifully. Really easy to apply too, although my credit card won't work in the ATM for some reason. Denis

I have seen a technique like that used to make boxes. If I remember correctly, it's all about using templates with the right offset router bits. I will try and dig out a reference to it. I think it's another of those techniques where 90% of the effort is in the planning. To be honest, I prefer a simpler approach, which is why I am vague on how it works. If I find the reference, I'll try to post the salient facts Denis

I am trying to put a tele together, and it's not going well for a number of reasons. I need some basic help, please. It's very conventional electronically, with single coil bridge and neck pickups and a "normal" control panel that I bought in. I wired it all up before finishing it so that I could check it was OK, and because I am an impatient kinda person, and wanted to hear it. I have not shielded any of the cavities with copper yet. When I switch to the neck pup, it sounds OK (ish), but there's a residual hum that goes when I touch either the bridge or the control panel. So I guess that I need to ground the bridge and shield the cavities? When I swich to the central or bridge position, there is an almighty hum, and that's all. No sound from the strings. My first thought was that the pup was faulty, so I have taken that direct to the jack, and it works as well as the bridge does. I know that the switch is OK as I checked that as part of working out how to wire it up. Where do I do from here? Thanks in advance Denis

FWIW, as far as I know, a Tele is just 12" wide, so I can't see the problem with a body an inch or so less than that. Dunno the dimensions of the Bo Diddley Gretsch, but it looked a lot narrower than a Tele to me. Denis

I seem to remember a thread that said PC could be applied over just about anything, but can't find that thread. Why not just spray a test with your rattle can in the way that you want to do your guitar, let it dry/cure and then try a few coats of PC and see what the result is? Denis

Neat solution, and a nice looking Tele. Thanks a lot Denis

Mick - I just wasn't thinking. Of course mounting in the way you describe would make the whole thing more doable. Thank you!! One of my concerns was mounting the screws for the pickup so close to the route. If I don't need to do that............ Denis

I am starting to build a tele. Mahogany body with a maple top. Until I got the top jointed and sanded, I was just going to use a pickguard, but the maple is just too pretty to hide. Personally, I think leaving the neck route showing just doesn't look right, and the pickup is one of those that mounts thru a pickguard (i.e. the pup is suspended from the guard in the same way that a humbicker is attached to a ring). so that woudn't work anyway. I am thinking about making a "ring" out of an offcut of the maple - maybe thickessing it down to about 4mm (3/16"") or so. I have tried searching, but can't find any reference to doing something like that on a tele as opposed to a HB. Can anyone offer any experience of doing this please? Thanks Denis

Pete. I missed this thread too - only just caught up with it. I can't imagine seeing it wrecked like that. It would have broken my heart. I just adored it as a natural finish. I have just started a mahogany body/flame maple tele and was dithering about whether to stain the maple or not. You have made up my mind for me - natural wins. Thanks Denis

I could never see the point in buying a router table. I used a 2 foot square piece of kitchen worktop (counter top), some 2 x 2 softwood for the legs. added a mounting plate from Trend and use a homemade fine height adjuster on my Makita 3612. It sits on top of a workmate at exactly the right height for me so I am not bending over it and doing my back more damage. Fence is made out of 18mm MDF with a hole that takes my dust extractor hose perfectly. Must have cost me all of £15 ~ $30 Just can't see what else I need a router table to do right now. When I do, I am sure that I'll just add it to what I have got Denis

Thanks BUT can I ask the obvious question? Why? Denis

I bought some pre cut frets from this guy. Denis

Never bought from him, but this guy often has some great looking maple Denis

Finally, I have gone valve (tube). Sold my Marshall 100 watt solid state half stack - bought as my contribution to the mid life crisis stakes - loud but a very restricted sound palette with no real richness to the sound. Found a guy near me in the UK who takes clones of the Epiphone 5 watt and makes them work really well. He made me one with Marshall voicing which is very nice, although the 8 inch speaker makes the sound a bit cramped. I acquired a couple of 1974 Celestion G12H 30 watts in great condition and I have built a 2 x 12 pine cab for them. The difference is outstanding. The sound is so full and deep, it's the best noise I have ever made. Currently the cab has no back at all. I am playing in a small room - don't have any plans to gig with it. Where do go from here? Stick with it backless or put a full back on it? What's the difference in sound likely to be? I am playing blues - SRV, Hendrix style (he said with delusions of grandure ) Any opinions greatly received. Thanks Denis

There's a whole load of stuff on Cabs, fitting Tolex and grill cloth Here. Denis