beatingu

I still have these. Anyone wanna make an offer?

Hello everyone.I have my Lundgren m7's for sale for $340 dollars.They are only slightly used.The mounting tabs have been trimmed to a triangular shape.Theres still plenty of wire left after my installation, if not enough for your guitar you can just add more 26 gauge wire.Thanks for looking.

This is a stained and tru-oiled neck. http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a83/sixt6...iser/NJ1-10.jpg They can come out very shiny or you can dull down if you'd like which i heard makes for a faster finish.Heres a write-up from one of the guys on here.Enjoy. How To Tru-Oil A Guitar Body and Neck If you are starting with a bare wood neck that's been prepped (by prepped neck, I mean a neck that has been sanded, and whiskered. “Whiskering” is using a damp cloth to raise the grain after which the wood is sanded or steel wooled to remove the "whiskers". I recommend whiskering at least 2-3 times before staining.) , the first thing to do is to stain the wood. What I use is Stew Macs' vintage amber water based stain. It's able to be adjusted to whatever shade you like very easily. Also, the stain is carried into the grain more deeply because the water doesn't evaporate as fast as alcohol, or oil based stain. This is what gives the grain "pop" you hear about. Normally I stain, let dry, steel wool the neck with 0000 steel wool, wipe down and stain again. Then LIGHTLY steel wool again just to smooth the wood and remove excess stain from the surface. After the stain is the color you like you can begin applying the oil. This is done by dipping your finger into the bottle and applying a generous amount to the wood, rubbing it into the wood with two fingers I try to apply enough oil to cover about 3-4 inches at a time. On this first coat you can go fairly heavy with the oil as the neck will drink it in. Try to work in such a manner as to always be working the fresh oil into the oil you just rubbed in, smoothing and blending it together so there is no seam between the two areas. When rubbing in the oil try to be brisk so the oil heats slightly from the friction. When the neck has been covered let it sit for several hours, or until it is no longer tacky, at which time you repeat the process. You'll find that after about three coats the oil will begin to build, and less oil will be needed to coat the neck. Steel wool the neck lightly, after about four coats, just to create a nice smooth surface for the next coat. I usually apply 7-8 coats and after the final coat I let the neck sit overnight to allow the oil to harden. When the oil feels dry and hard I very lightly steel wool the finish until it's no longer shiney. Try not to remove alot of the finish, just burnish it to remove the high gloss shine. let the neck sit for an hour or two and then use a clean cloth ( Old denim or T-shirt cloth works well) to buff the neck up and down fairly fast and you will bring the finish to a nice sheen! This finish will be fast, but, it will get even faster as it cures, say a week or two. I try to finish the neck on a guitar first so that when the body is ready the neck will be well cured and feel as though it has been played for ten years!

Thanks Pete that helped me a lot.I tried it out last night and I realized the problem is my amp.Btw where can i get 2 meg pots?I'd really like to try that out.

Hey everybody.So i tried to wire up a passive pickup to my 7 string and it sounded nothing like the soundclips i've heard.I know they're supposed to be bassy but this was very muddy and unclear.It's a Lundgren M-7 with a 500k CTS pot and thats it.Am i using the wrong pot?Should i try a 1meg pot?I got the diagram here: http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/WDUH0101

Nice guitar.I'll definitely keep you posted.I'm almost done with the neck scallop, (i'm a bit of a perfectionist) going on 3 days lol.

It's funny that you mention that because i will be selling the the guitar when i'm done.After i copy the body using Alder of course.I don't have much experience with woods and sounds but i found alder to suit my needs quite well.I may try using something different when i get more experience making bodies.I have a router for cavities and stuff but i need some proper bits and templates first before i copy this thing. Trust me i will be testing lots and lots with the paint as well as everything else.That is one of the most important things i learned on this site.Thanks for the info. Gary

Hi everyone, I've been reading lots on refinishing and have been wanting to refinish my Ibanez 7620 Basswood body.So far its stripped.I can't find much on using a filler on basswood so im not sure if i should skip that and go straight to the sand and sealer process.Also if i need grain filler where can i get it?Does Home Depot carry it?.I'm trying to make this job somewhat easy on myself as i do not have a spray gun, so i was wondering if i could use rattlecans for primer and a base coat and what kind.Also after the basecoat i want to experiment with a swirl paint finish.Then to clear it im not really sure what to use, any suggestions?Here's my list of stuff i need so far.Let me know if im missing anything.Any suggestions and tips will be very much appreciated and i will be sure to post pics of my first project. 1.Oil-based grain-filler Natural color. 2.Mineral Spirits 3.Sealer Parks Corp. Nitrocellulose 4.Rattlecan Primer and color coat 5.Still researching humbrol and borax for swirl paint.I have the water tub. 6.Rattlecan Clearcoat. 7. And finally lots of sandpaper. Heres some pics so far: Stripped http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a83/sixt6...Ibanezrg001.jpg Scalloped http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a83/sixt6...Ibanezrg002.jpg And Knotted lol http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a83/sixt6...Ibanezrg003.jpg

im doin it your way.it just started makin popping noises i guess i just didnt notice it at first cuz i cant play that loud in my house.thanks man.

i just wired it up a few minutes ago and it works.but i wired it to the hot output jack wire and put a ground to it from the switch and it works fine with no pop.will this be ok leaving it like this.

Im new here so hello to everyone.I have searched several times all over the internet on how to install a killswitch but it seems the normal way to wire one up does not work with emg 81/85 pickups.does anyone here have these same pickups with a killswitch installed?can you please help me? Gary