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  1. Is there any reference for what affected tapers would look like? (I can't seem to find any online)
  2. I'm not as versed in this as I'm sure most people here are, so I appreciate feedback. Mender, I'm thinking about building something like the Beavis board, but without the voltage sag and instead to have some pre-wired pots and a rotary switch in there. The idea would then be that the pots my have slightly higher values than I commonly need, and so I can effectively lower the R of the pots by adding a couple resistors on the breadboard, so I'm not always soldering up new pots, or having to move hardware around. This would then be applicable to 90% of the possible pedals I might want to make, and then I could make up the difference by using trims/other switches where needed. Does this seem like it'd work ok for some of you seasoned pros?
  3. Ya, I'm kind of thinking about making a pedal with a breadboard, and all the pots and stompswitch etc. are built in for an easy-to-wire-up solution to my long pedal building processes. Kind of like the Beavis board but I'm not a huge fan of those. So for something like this, would you prefer ease of use, and simple options? or would you prefer it to be way customizeable, and tons of options?
  4. I'm trying to figure out if these things are worth building, Occasionally you see prototyping pedals where all the dials and switches are built into a pedal, and you get to arrange all the electronic guts (ICs, resistors, caps etc.) to make any pedal you want, and fully customizable. So basically it's a shell of a pedal, where without soldering you get to make/modify any pedal you want, and you can even build/tweak exact replicas of almost any pedal. If it was easy and cheap enough to do: Would you ever use one to sculpt your unique tone? To learn electronics for fun? Or if you're electronics savvy already, would they seem useful to streamline pedal projects?
  5. Does anyone know any good resources for constructing your own MIDI pickup? I'm thinking a hex driver would be best so you get all 6 notes separate. Any thoughts or success stories?
  6. Yeah, do bookmatched flamed maple on the L and R, but do a huge stripe down the middle.
  7. Here's a quadruple bookmatch I did for my headstock, just another idea to play around with.
  8. Well, I'd hate to revive this 6 month old thread, but it's done! The necks fat, and there are some visible defects, but it plays nice and has decent action. And the sound is actually to die for, but that may just be the SD PG-1s talking. Tell me what you think!
  9. so do you taper the fretboard thinner than you want so that the binding brings it to the right thickness? And is it easier to have the frets poke out through slots in the binding or to be covered by the binding?
  10. It's already carved/rounded. Are you suggesting I just glue a long "splinter" in there? Should I do that before or after I attach the fretboard? Also, should I put the binding on the fretboard before or after attaching the fretboard to the neck?
  11. width parallel to frets. I'm worried the strings won't have enough room. I can cut the fretboard to the right size, but then it might not (would not) match up with the neck 100% unless I did something about it. Any ideas?
  12. Um, Is this thread dead? I know there are some gurus out there somewhere! Please help me!
  13. maybe it's not clear in the photo, but the entire left side of the guitar is an open chamber, and then I also put a chamber in the horn, but it's airtight, and more for lessening the weight. When the top is carved, it should be a little more obvious, but it's just so thick right now. Also, please look at my question before if you can help, but I have another question too. Sorry, I'm full of em. My neck is 1/16" too thin around the 10th fret on, and it gets a little worse as you go further. What do I do? It'll be bound, will that help? Or is 1/16 not enough to worry about? That is 1/32" off either side, or 1/16" from what it should be. Thanks!
  14. How much of a problem is it that I already used it on the body? And is creep just when the two pieces move in relation to eachother?
  15. It's titebond III, the water proof stuff. Will acetone still work? If so, you saved me alot of grief!
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